Bocas del Toro, Panama

 This has been a unique vacation.  Our first motivation for this destination was the almost thousand dollars in Copa Airline credits we had which expire at the end of June.  Then there was Dawn’s diagnosis of severe idiopathic peripheral neuropathy.  She was told that it was progressive, unknown cause/ treatment, and that she would end up in a walker/wheelchair.  The physician expressed no hope. This trip was viewed as perhaps a last adventure before symptoms worsened.  At the same time, I read about this new luxurious resort at Bocas del Toro in Panama; thus, we booked it.  Let's end this in a big way!

Subsequently, Dawn sought other opinions and was fortunate to find a physician who has provided effective therapy.  High dose B12 injections are reversing symptoms, although treatment may be ongoing indefinitely.  We considered cancelation of our reservation, but ultimately decided you only live once, do it.  Now the focus is on this new resort; what is it like?

Beautiful flowers everywhere.  The head landscaper is from France.  The resort will soon have acres of secret gardens discovered by taking pebble paths through the jungle.  The climate is warm with frequent rain encouraging healthy growth without frequent tending. 

Upon arrival at Bocas del Toro airport, we were met by helpful agent with a Cadillac Escalade which transported us to a private dock where a boat was waiting to take us the 8-10 miles to the island.  Pretty amazing place with a real story behind it.  Originally, this was a hundred-acre mangrove swamp island. To create dry land, they needed to dig channels and ponds to encourage drainage and use the excavated material to build up desired areas.  For all structures they needed to place concrete pilings deep into the soil to find adequate support.  The really difficult part: no heavy equipment could be used; all tasks were mainly done by hand!

Because the island is a converted mangrove swamp, all the walkways are elevated walkways, suitable for wheelchair guests.  The garden paths will not be elevated.

This is what mangroves look like.  The mangroves can extract fresh water from the ocean through their roots.

This is the open-air daytime dining area and bar. A pool is adjacent on the left and a garden to the right.  Other wings of this building include the reception area and fitness rooms.

Beautiful pool which no one ever used!  Perhaps that is because the ocean is at the front door of every villa as well as plunge pools.

The "elephant house" used for evening meals.  It opened at 7pm.  A drink and appetizer were almost mandatory, by the time desert was finished it was 9pm or later.  Excellent food and the menu was changed each night.  It has a fire pit and an underwater light which would attract fish, including sharks and stingrays.

Currently there are 16 overwater villa accommodations (about 700 sq. ft. each with outside covered decks/docks adding 300-400 sq. ft.).  Each of these villas was originally designed and constructed in Bali, Indonesia, then disassembled, shipped to Panama, and reassembled here.  All the major buildings are from Bali using their design and materials. Carved wood beams, thatched roofs, very authentic.  When completed in several years, the resort is currently planning 40 accommodations of several types including tree houses.  The vision for this resort came from one man: Dan Beam, a successful businessman from Michigan.

Panama authorities are allowing the development of about 10% of this island, 9-10 acres.  Everything completed is beautiful with lush tropical growth.  Extensive gardens, ponds, and a freshwater channel are being developed.  We were told there is a wild boar on the island.  Because it is a remote island, water collection and filtration, sewer systems, electrical power, A/C, lighting, internet, worker dormitories, a fleet of shuttle launches, refrigeration, storage.... everything had to be created from scratch.  

The best part is the staff, so sincerely friendly and supportive. Anita, Franco, and Patricio are from Argentina. Nina, Ruby, Yulina and several others are local.  Several are from Costa Rica (about an hour to the border), one from Mexico, one from Texas.  The staff greatly outnumbers the guests.  All staff members are required to be fluent in English, but, while we were there, most of the guests spoke Spanish.

All-inclusive for eating and drinks.  The breakfast/lunch area is separate from the evening restaurant, but one of them is always open from 7am to 11pm.  A variety of kayaks and SUPs are at hand for the asking as well as snorkeling gear.  A beautifully landscaped pool is adjacent to the reception area, and a fitness room with a/c is well equipped.  Excursions to distant attractions cost extra.  Given that Dawn and I had lived in Panama for three years previously and also had visited Bocas del Toro on a previous trip, we didn't find the excursions providing any new experiences for us; thus, we passed.  We have seen plenty of monkeys and sloths, native tribes (Guna Indians), jungle, and remote surfing beaches. We have driven ATVs and E-bikes.

This fish was within 50 feet of our villa.  The snorkeling here was in shallow calm water; thus, simple equipment was adequate for use.  I saw two barracuda, but neither was large.

The colors were vivid in these shallow waters, many creatures flourishing here.  Starfish were common, some were bright orange.

What a pretty cluster of coral growth.  That flower-like organism on the left will close instantaneously if you get too close.

Does that look like a bagpipe?  A beautiful orange color with those nozzles filtering the sea water.

Finger-like cluster.

A little fish hiding out.  I had trouble getting its photo because it would look directly at the camera so all you could see was its eyes and lips.  We had a school of fish that hung out in the shade of our villa behind the pilings.

Another color and shape for these tube-like structures.  The different varieties of sea life were endless (and I have more photos to prove it).

Snorkeling is one of our pleasures.  Here the resort is on a large bay, not the open ocean; thus, there are no large waves or currents to contend with.  The coral formations are smaller, not major reefs.  I was initially disappointed with the snorkel fins we were provided.  They were short, less efficient than the longer fins, but, after using them, they were adequate for the conditions we experienced.  When we expressed our interest in snorkeling, we were moved to villa #1 which is positioned in deeper water and very close to decent coral formations away from the other villas and development.

Our villa with Dawn tying up her kayak.  All the buildings are authentic from Bali with furniture, sculpture, paintings, and intricately carved wood panels.

A calm morning looking from our deck past the kayaks and plunge pool toward the nearby point of mangroves and coral beds concealed nearby.

Dawn out in one of our kayaks.  She really enjoyed it; asked me if I would build her one (perhaps).  I want her to try out the boat I am now building first.

We came across two yachts anchored on the other side of our island "Frangipani Island" when we were circumnavigating it.  In the distance, to the west, you can see the cloud-shrouded high country of western Panama near the Costa Rican border.

Our villa was very comfortable, king bed with curtains, walk-in shower, seating area, folding doors with large windows which you could open onto the covered deck.  We had a plunge pool which we never used.  At night there was absolute quiet and looking out from our deck across the water it was absolute black, no lights from the open water or jungle-shrouded shores.

On one of our kayak ventures, we visited an island with a large nesting population of sea birds.  They were swirling in the skies before our visit.  You had to get close to create any additional disturbance.

The weather was variable.  Snorkeling is best on sunny days, midmorning or early afternoon when the sun's rays penetrate deeply to light up the underwater environment.  We use full body suits, rash guards, to protect us from sunburn.  When it was cloudier, we preferred to use our provided kayaks, but even then, we would wear long sleeves and wide-brimmed hats to protect us from the sun.  One day we circumnavigated our hundred-acre island.  We had to follow the contours of every bay since we were unaware of its actual shape and, from a distance, overlapping islands could appear as a continuous shoreline.  We made additional forays to check out other nearby islands.

We flew from Panama City (Albrook) via Air Panama to Bocas.  On the way there, the flight was one hour late.  On the return flight, it was 45 minutes late.  Tocumen International Airport is east of downtown Panama City and Albrook is west of downtown.  The traffic getting through downtown is generally a congested mess.  Our taxi drivers were educated, interesting, and fluent in English which made the commute better.  We stayed overnight at The Santa Maria resort and golf course which is very nice.  We were able to take a long walk in the beautiful surrounding neighborhood.  The hotel would reserve us a taxi to Tocumen for $35.  A taxi company would do it for $30.  We used an Uber service which cost $10.

A portion of the Panama City skyline.  The central city is very modern with fancy cars, stores, hotels, and eateries.  As you get further away, the country takes on a third world view.  The people are very nice; I worry about self-serving and corrupt government (in the US also).  Panama is a very strategic country connecting South America with Central America.  The transit fee for one large cargo vessel to pass through the canal is more than a million dollars!

Would we go back?  Maybe.  A very relaxing and unique vacation.  Given that this is our third Panama visit, we were twice asked if we were considering retiring in Panama.  There is a large community of US retirees near Boquete in the mountains of western Panama. We found the resident people to be very friendly and welcoming.  We still have not seen it all. 

Copa Airlines provided first class, non-stop, on-time flights to and from Panama.  Tocumen Airport opened their new Terminal 2 the week we arrived.  It is beautiful, spacious, and convenient.  Arriving back in Denver with front row seats on the aircraft, no checked baggage, and Global Entry registration, we basically walked off the aircraft and were able to go directly out of the terminal and on to waiting transportation.  No Covid concerns!