In time for Octoberfest

 Imagine, flying at 38,000 feet at over 600 mph to cover 5000+ miles in half a day!  What an amazing world!  Now we are eating dinner in a fine restaurant in Zurich, Switzerland, in the altstadt. Tomorrow, we take a train to Strasbourg, France.  We have been staying in an AirBnB which requires us to buy our breakfast makings at a local grocery, but that is just a part of immersion in the local lifestyle.  Everything here is in Deutsch, but we have some knowledge of terms, Google translate is helpful, and the Swiss people usually are helpful.

Swans on the river at Zurich promenade park

This is classic Strasbourg, beautiful half-timbered buildings on the river front.

Beautiful, but this is not the main attraction in Strasbourg.  A much larger cathedral (150+ yards tall) gets more attention.

When we arrived in Strasbourg, we dragged our suitcases from the train station (bahnhof) to our accommodation because most of the area has pedestrian-only streets (fussganger), faster on foot than by vehicle.  When we arrived at the street entrance to our apartment, our landlord had been watching from an upper story window and called out to us by name.  They had stocked our refrigerator with drinks and snacks.  Very nice people.

Dawn has been to Strasbourg previously, but this is my first time.  We are surprised at the large number of tourists; is this a French holiday?  Nevertheless, the city is very scenic with an incredible cathedral, as tall as Notre Dame.  We are again staying at an AirBnB: beautiful, spacious, perfect location, and very welcoming.  Again, one of our first stops was a natural grocery store to get breakfast supplies, including lactose free items.  French is a language we know very little, but English is becoming the international language, making things easier.  Our train trip here (switching from Swiss to French at Basel) went perfectly.

This is the main cathedral in Strasbourg, a major tourist attraction.  Our Airbnb was just one block away.

It is easy to get lost in Strasburg, the streets are laid out around a winding river and its many bridges, thus the streets also have a curving pattern.  Strasburg is a significant city and was even a more major meeting place historically.  At some times in the past, it was part of Germany, thus, there is a German influence in some of the more recent neighborhoods.  The preserved architecture, half-timbered buildings, is a significant reason to visit the city.  Our accommodation is probably 300 years old.  The ceiling is about 6 1/2 feet high, and part of the floor is about 4 inches lower that the other section.

We walked the old town and used a narrow-gauged, rubber-wheeled urban 'train" to see even more of the area.  We both got Covid, which we must have picked up in Zurich or on the train.  For me, it could easily have been confused with a cold (mainly sinus congestion), but Dawn's symptoms lingered a bit longer, so we bought self-tests at the local pharmacy which confirmed our suspicion.  Both of us had previously been fully vaccinated and Dawn had had a previous (and more serious) bout with Covid despite the precautions.  Evidently Covid has become like the common cold: a condition we will just have to learn to live with.  

Being the very end of September, we experienced some cooler and drizzly days.  There are many small wineries in villages of the area.  Due to lost time from Covid, we will have to take that tour at another visit.  Our time was up in Strasbourg and our stay in nearby Colmar was only three days.

Updated Index to Entries

 December 2005-   Building my first boat, Leaving home and Nebraska (amended)

February 2016-     Croatia preview

March 2016-         Iceland, Copenhagen, Zagreb, Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro, Ireland

July 2016-             Scandinavia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Berlin

September 2016-   Colorado

November 2016-   California coast

December 2016-   Washington DC, Island of Maui

March 2017-        Argentina:  Buenos Aires, San Carlos de Bariloche, Mendoza

May 2017-           Northern Italy preview

July 2017-            Alaskan cruise

September 2017- Venice, Lake Garda, Lake Como, Lake Maggiore, Genoa, Nice, French hill villages,                                        Portugal & Algarve 

October 2017-      Lisbon & Sintra, Washington DC

December 2017-   Eastern Caribbean cruise:  St. Kitts-Nevis, Martinique, Antigua, Barbados, Grenada,                                Puerto Rico

February 2018-     South Pacific preview

March 2018-         Tahiti & Tuomotu cruise, New Zealand

April 2018-           New Zealand South Island, Australia

September 2018-   Road trip to Colorado. Idaho, Wyoming

September 2018-   Galapagos Islands, 2015

September 2018-   Panama 2014 trip

September 2018-   San Blas islands cruise 1981

October 2018-       Krakow, Poland

November 2018-   Zakopane, Danube, Budapest, Azores

January 2019-        European trip preview

May 2019-              northern France, cruise to Med, Mallorca, Rome, Copenhagen

July 2019-              Azores, Maine, Cape Cod preview

August 2019-         Omaha visit

September 2019-   A Voyage to Remember, Florida to Panama, 1980

October 2019-        Azores, Maine, Cape Cod

December 2019-    Puerto Vallarta

February 2020-      Madeira Island, Azores

April 2020-            The Lost Vacation (due to Covid), Switzerland, (now rescheduled)

August 2020-         Road trip to Montana

October 2020-        Road trip to Arkansas

April 2021-             Living in Panama, 1979-1982

July 2021-               Brazil preview (canceled and rescheduled April-June 2022)

September 2021-    Switzerland:  Lausanne, Interlaken, Lucerne, Zurich

April 2022-             Road Trip to Omaha, Washington DC, and Florida 

May 2022-              Roatan snorkeling, Our 1972 Road Trip

June 2022-              Bocas del Toro snorkeling, Panama               

October 2022-         France:  Strasbourg, Colmar, & Mulhouse

                                Switzerland:  Basel. St. Gallen

April 2023-             Spain, Canary Islands, France, England, and DC

September 2023-    Scotland, Sardinia

December 2023-    DC, Dubai, Mahe Island (Seychelles)

January 2024-      more Seychelles Islands, Maldives Islands, Sri Lanka

February 2024-    South Africa, a brief stop in Brazil

A Fall trip to Switzerland

 Our visit to St. Gallen became a fateful experience.  We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and found our Airbnb apartment where we expected to stay for the next six days.  From here we could easily take daytrips by train the visit the Bodensee to the north (on the border with Germany) and visit the scenic mountains to the south at Appenzell and Wasserauen.  We then did food shopping (Sunday and only a grocery at the bahnhof was open) and went for a walk to explore the city.  A cog train ride, Muhleggbahn, takes you to a ridge overlooking the city.  At the top is a scenic walking path, "wanderweg", with a series of three ponds and recreation facilities along the trail, Drei Weieren recreation area. 

A couple days later, Wasserauen was our destination by train (end of the line) and then by a cable car to Ebenalp, at 5380 feet altitude, the northern most peak of the Appenzeller Alps, on a high ridge.  A lodge at Ebenalp serves meals and snacks or even an overnight stay.  Several trails fan out for hiking to mountain crest locations.  There is also a steep open meadow with windsocks which is popular for launching by paragliders.  Great views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.

Approaching Ebenalp.  At the very top center of this photo, if you look closely, you will see a building; that is where the cable car takes you and where the paragliders launch from.

This is a more close-up view of Ebenalp.

And here is a paraglider launching from Ebenalp.  This is not a ski slope, as vertical cliffs surround the area.

To get to Wasserauen we needed to change trains at Appenzell.  The town was full of visitors and also cows.  Not sure what the purpose was of this gathering, but the parking lot across from the Appenzell brewery was full of cows in secured close order.  The next day, the same area held a gathering of goats.  A scenic river runs through the town, and we noticed signs marking the routes for several bike trails.  The AB bahnhof there had e-bikes for rent; thus, we made reservations for the following day.

The town of Appenzell, perhaps best known for its scenery and its brewery.

We returned to Appenzell the following day and picked up our rented e-bikes.  We took a pleasant, mainly paved trail and rode our bikes back to Wasserauen and beyond.  At the head of this scenic valley, it becomes a narrow and steep gorge leading upward to a lake and, above that, a naked rock peak with banks of snow in areas more sheltered in the shadows of cliffs.  End of the trail for our bikes. 

The cutest little church in the most scenic location in the valley of Wasserauen.

The green fields look like a carpet covering the entire valley, no crops but pastures for cows, sheep, and goats.

Time for one more photograph before we head back to Appenzell.

We headed back by a different path rising above the valley, diverted into a new area to explore, and then found our way back to Appenzell for refreshments and a potty stop.  Heading west out of Appenzell to follow a new route, Dawn took a serious fall on the cobblestone paving and, effectively, our entire vacation was over.

After the arrival of an emergency ambulance, she spent the next nine nights in the St. Gallen Kantonsspital where she was stabilized, and pain control was achieved (after four days).  The initial question was whether she would need surgery there in Switzerland or could she be moved back to the US.  Upon arrival at the hospital, I was asked to provide an immediate 12,000 Swiss franc deposit.  My job was to take care of the logistics of her hospitalization and start planning for our return to the United States if possible.  The medical care there was excellent.

Once I could see that some measure of pain control and stabilization was achieved, I was able to contact Delta Airlines (our most convenient connection) by telephone and arrange wheelchair service and first-class seating for our flights home.  Due to the hip fracture, Dawn could not walk.  Due to her severe elbow fracture (impacted, displaced, comminuted) and resulting cast, she could not wear normal shirts or sweaters.  We could only wrap garments around her.  Zurich airport transfer went well.  Going through security at JFK airport was a nightmare; they expected her to walk and ignored her when she couldn't.

However, part of that time we were simply waiting for her condition to improve with nothing I could do to speed it up.  I was able to take a couple of daytrips by train to visit Rorschach, Haiden, and Winterthur.

The central platz in St. Gallen.  If I panned to the right, there is a large cathedral complex with several buildings.  The interior of the cathedral is very beautiful, but after you have seen a number of such cathedrals, they start to look alike.

Fall was in full force while we stayed in St. Gallen.  I walked through this area every day walking between my hotel (after moving from our Airbnb) and Dawn's hospital room.  The Talhof festival began the day before we left the area.

Rorschach is on the shores of Bodensee, alternately called Lake Constance, which is a large lake separating Switzerland from Germany.  Haiden is visited using a cog train; it is a small town at higher altitude from which, on a clear day, you have a vista of almost the entire Bodensee and into Germany.  Winterthur is a larger city to the west which has a large fussganger district (pedestrian only) with many small, specialized shops and interesting displays.  Nearby are also pleasant green park areas.

My visit to Haiden was a bust as far as seeing distant views.  The town was socked-in, immersed in a cloud bank.

Our trip back to the States was long and tiring.  We had arranged a van with wheelchair to get us to Zurich, and we were met with wheelchair service at Zurich, New York, and Denver airports.  Now Dawn needs surgery, convalescence, and then we head for Washington, DC to see our grandchildren at Christmas. 

Basel, where French, Swiss, and German come together

From Strasbourg a train ride brought us to Colmar, France, another Alsatian wine country town.  Again, very scenic with an extensive old town district.  Dawn & I had both caught “colds” in Strasbourg; however, when Dawn’s symptoms were prolonged, we got Covid tests, and we both tested positive.  Thus, we backed off on a wine village trip and have been preparing our meals at the apartment.  I purchased decongestant meds for Dawn which greatly improved her outlook.  

A winding river courses through Colmar.  These building are hundreds of years old.  An altstadt Colmar scene.  Colmar is similar to Strasbourg except smaller and with a less magnificent cathedral.  Apparently, in the past, the church held enormous power.  Those cathedrals are by far the most elaborate and large buildings in most of these old cities.

This ferry boat crossing the Rhine River is powered entirely by the river current.  The boat is attached to a cable which crosses the river.  By turning the rudder one way the boat is pushed to port; turning the rudder the other way causes the boat to tack to starboard (like a sailboat).

Now we are in Basel.  I had made a hotel reservation in Basel near the bahnhof, thinking that it would be very convenient for our travels.  Turns out there are multiple bahnhofs: a Swiss SBB Hauptbahnhof, a French gare (French for bahnhof), and a German DB bahnhof across the Rhine River.  Our hotel is near to the German bahnhof, not convenient for our train travels.  But we are very much enjoying the hotel; they made a special effort to accommodate my lactose intolerance; and we have learned of tram connections between all the bahnhofs and other attractions.  The trams run about every ten minutes, so there is very little wait.  The hotel room comes with a "city card" which allows free transportation on all local public transportation.  Upon leaving Basel we purchased Swiss Travel Passes which allow free travel throughout the entire country of Switzerland as well as free entrance to many museums and reduced price for other attractions.

Market plaza in Central Basel.

The Rhine River was a short distance down the hill from our hotel and has comfortable and scenic walking paths.  We also took an interesting ferry ride across the river.  The ferry boat is attached to an overhead cable and is powered by the river's considerable current.  Walking along the riverbanks ensures that you will not be facing hills to climb. At sunset, we found an excellent restaurant for one of our best meals; not cheap, but money well spent.

Yummy dinner at an Italian restaurant on a back street near the Rhine.

While at Basel we needed to decide what our next stop would be.  It was now October.  The more mountainous parts of Switzerland were starting to get colder than we had packed clothing for and with a chance of snow.  For this entire trip, we had brought only carry-on luggage because we wanted to avoid the delay and possible loss of suitcases.  We chose St. Gallen, northeastern Switzerland, as our next destination and were able to reserve an apartment for the next six days.  From that location on short day trips, we could visit the Bodensee to the north and scenic mountains to the south using our Swiss Passes.  Germany, Austria, and Liechtenstein are nearby. 

A Lifetime Travel Partner

                    1970 at Carmel, California, with my girlfriend, Dawn
 

Today, May 27, 2024, is the 53rd wedding anniversary for Dawn and me.  She is my partner in our lifetime adventure of challenges and travel.  Through respect and love, together we to make a good team.  Fall 1969, before I actually met Dawn, I was studying at our UC college library when I met her roommate, Kathy.  Kathy and I recognized that we lived in nearby apartments in the same apartment building, and we sat down and started to introduce ourselves (much better than studying).  Kathy was a California native from Marin County.  I mentioned that I was a newcomer to the State after service in the Pacific with the US Navy.  Kathy said, "You should meet my roommate, Dawn, she also enjoys visiting new places."  Little did I know then how prophetic that would be.

Later that Fall, in the political chaos of the Vietnam War, riots were taking place on the UC Santa Barbara campus (anti-war, anti-establishment) at that time. Watching from the rooftop deck of our apartment building as a crowd of rioters clashed with hundreds of police in the streets below, our fellow apartment dwellers, mainly students, were sympathetic to the “students” being abused by the “pigs”. A significant portion of the rioters were lowlife hoods who had driven up from LA to create trouble. On the roof deck I noted one girl, a tall blonde, who was arguing in support of the police. She pointed out the gross vandalism and violence of the rioters and that the police were only restoring order. (The riots had been going on for several days and would continue until 400 National Guard arrived and took charge with fixed bayonets, a curfew, ID checks, and roadblocks.)

I took the side of this cute blonde in her argument against her student opposition. Having returned directly from Vietnam to this “Ivory Tower” existence (looking out over the Pacific Ocean), I had no sympathy for their misdirected protests. We left the rooftop that evening without speaking further and had no contact until the end-of-quarter break, but I did not forget this girl. To have the courage to defy the emotions of a crowd, this girl had to be confident in who she was and what she stood for. Admirable qualities not commonly encountered at that age.

 During the Christmas quarter break, most students went home, but my home was in Nebraska, too far away, and Dawn was committed to a job at a local medical clinic. Using a lame opening, I first asked her out, and we started to get to know each other. Dawn grew up with a mother who gave her little support; however, her father was a quiet, steadying influence. He had served in WWII, crossing Utah beach on D-Day, and participated in the advance across Europe into Germany until the end of the war and occupation. He did not discuss his experiences, but simply went on with life. Dawn was the oldest child, often looking after a younger sister, and had learned by necessity to be responsible and independent.

 In contrast, I was the youngest child in a supportive home where I had no shortage of advice from parents plus an older sister and brother. In childhood, I felt I was always being judged by others’ expectations of what I should do. I now enjoyed being entirely on my own. I had applied for California residency and been accepted to the University of California, despite my parents’ disapproval of such a move.

 As we got to know each other, we discovered how much we had in common, despite our different backgrounds. She, from upscale Marin County (north across the Golden Gate bridge), and myself, with family and relatives from the farms of Nebraska. We were both on our own, watching our budgets carefully. We enjoyed simple things like walking on the beach, reading at the library or newsstand, or hiking in the nearby Santa Ynez mountains. I could also rent university-sponsored sailboats at the harbor. We believed in the freedom that accepting individual responsibility brings and that all options were open for our future. I had found a real partner.

Summer 1970, I had an internship with 3M in St. Paul, MN, and Dawn came for a visit. We, along with my apartment mate & his girlfriend (future wife), went camping on the north shore of Lake Superior and canoe camping at BWCA. We were careful to watch for bears when picking blueberries along the shore, but in the middle of the night we had a bear sniffing at the thin nylon walls of our tents. Fortunately, with all four of us yelling, we scared the bear away. Before we both returned to Santa Barbara, I made a detour to Marin County to visit Dawn and meet her family at her parent's home.

 After graduation, I was living in Portland and planned our wedding ceremony there at a small chapel with a pretty tulip garden in a pleasant residential area. Meanwhile, Dawn dealt with her family. Her parents disapproved, thinking she was too young (21) to get married. Her mother did not attend. My parents provided unasked-for, but well-intentioned, advice, and my brother tried to warn Dawn about my “irresponsibility” (perhaps years ago?). Our wedding was the first time Dawn met my family. Brave girl! I was glad that I had warned her about my family's penchant for advice and to trust in what we had planned together.

Our wedding was small; we paid for all wedding expenses ourselves, including a post-wedding dinner for everyone at a fancy restaurant overlooking the Willamette River and Mount Hood. Dawn deserved a fancier wedding. I was the lucky one with a strong, beautiful, committed partner. My goal was to be the best person that I could be so that I could feel I deserved to be at her side. We wanted no obligations to her family or mine. Our new jobs permitted no honeymoon. We hiked, rode bicycles, and sailed our 14’ Lido. We built our simple apartment furniture with hand tools and saved funds for the future. But we were together at the start of a lifetime adventure.

 A year later we left Portland and spent three months traveling, looking for our next beginning. Now it is 53 years later.  Our adventure has taken us in many directions. We have lived in 16 different towns or cities, 8 states, and 4 countries since then.  We have traveled to almost sixty countries, plus many repeats.  Our children are happy and prospering; we have been fortunate. The goals we shared and pursued have come true and given us great satisfaction.

Dawn still loves to travel.  We have a Fall trip to Europe and Turkiye planned and have made preliminary efforts toward a winter trip to the Caribbean (and beyond?).  As long as we stay healthy ....  

 

         

 

     

Bocas del Toro, Panama

 This has been a unique vacation.  Our first motivation for this destination was the almost thousand dollars in Copa Airline credits we had which expire at the end of June.  Then there was Dawn’s diagnosis of severe idiopathic peripheral neuropathy.  She was told that it was progressive, unknown cause/ treatment, and that she would end up in a walker/wheelchair.  The physician expressed no hope. This trip was viewed as perhaps a last adventure before symptoms worsened.  At the same time, I read about this new luxurious resort at Bocas del Toro in Panama; thus, we booked it.  Let's end this in a big way!

Subsequently, Dawn sought other opinions and was fortunate to find a physician who has provided effective therapy.  High dose B12 injections are reversing symptoms, although treatment may be ongoing indefinitely.  We considered cancelation of our reservation, but ultimately decided you only live once, do it.  Now the focus is on this new resort; what is it like?

Beautiful flowers everywhere.  The head landscaper is from France.  The resort will soon have acres of secret gardens discovered by taking pebble paths through the jungle.  The climate is warm with frequent rain encouraging healthy growth without frequent tending. 

Upon arrival at Bocas del Toro airport, we were met by helpful agent with a Cadillac Escalade which transported us to a private dock where a boat was waiting to take us the 8-10 miles to the island.  Pretty amazing place with a real story behind it.  Originally, this was a hundred-acre mangrove swamp island. To create dry land, they needed to dig channels and ponds to encourage drainage and use the excavated material to build up desired areas.  For all structures they needed to place concrete pilings deep into the soil to find adequate support.  The really difficult part: no heavy equipment could be used; all tasks were mainly done by hand!

Because the island is a converted mangrove swamp, all the walkways are elevated walkways, suitable for wheelchair guests.  The garden paths will not be elevated.

This is what mangroves look like.  The mangroves can extract fresh water from the ocean through their roots.

This is the open-air daytime dining area and bar. A pool is adjacent on the left and a garden to the right.  Other wings of this building include the reception area and fitness rooms.

Beautiful pool which no one ever used!  Perhaps that is because the ocean is at the front door of every villa as well as plunge pools.

The "elephant house" used for evening meals.  It opened at 7pm.  A drink and appetizer were almost mandatory, by the time desert was finished it was 9pm or later.  Excellent food and the menu was changed each night.  It has a fire pit and an underwater light which would attract fish, including sharks and stingrays.

Currently there are 16 overwater villa accommodations (about 700 sq. ft. each with outside covered decks/docks adding 300-400 sq. ft.).  Each of these villas was originally designed and constructed in Bali, Indonesia, then disassembled, shipped to Panama, and reassembled here.  All the major buildings are from Bali using their design and materials. Carved wood beams, thatched roofs, very authentic.  When completed in several years, the resort is currently planning 40 accommodations of several types including tree houses.  The vision for this resort came from one man: Dan Beam, a successful businessman from Michigan.

Panama authorities are allowing the development of about 10% of this island, 9-10 acres.  Everything completed is beautiful with lush tropical growth.  Extensive gardens, ponds, and a freshwater channel are being developed.  We were told there is a wild boar on the island.  Because it is a remote island, water collection and filtration, sewer systems, electrical power, A/C, lighting, internet, worker dormitories, a fleet of shuttle launches, refrigeration, storage.... everything had to be created from scratch.  

The best part is the staff, so sincerely friendly and supportive. Anita, Franco, and Patricio are from Argentina. Nina, Ruby, Yulina and several others are local.  Several are from Costa Rica (about an hour to the border), one from Mexico, one from Texas.  The staff greatly outnumbers the guests.  All staff members are required to be fluent in English, but, while we were there, most of the guests spoke Spanish.

All-inclusive for eating and drinks.  The breakfast/lunch area is separate from the evening restaurant, but one of them is always open from 7am to 11pm.  A variety of kayaks and SUPs are at hand for the asking as well as snorkeling gear.  A beautifully landscaped pool is adjacent to the reception area, and a fitness room with a/c is well equipped.  Excursions to distant attractions cost extra.  Given that Dawn and I had lived in Panama for three years previously and also had visited Bocas del Toro on a previous trip, we didn't find the excursions providing any new experiences for us; thus, we passed.  We have seen plenty of monkeys and sloths, native tribes (Guna Indians), jungle, and remote surfing beaches. We have driven ATVs and E-bikes.

This fish was within 50 feet of our villa.  The snorkeling here was in shallow calm water; thus, simple equipment was adequate for use.  I saw two barracuda, but neither was large.

The colors were vivid in these shallow waters, many creatures flourishing here.  Starfish were common, some were bright orange.

What a pretty cluster of coral growth.  That flower-like organism on the left will close instantaneously if you get too close.

Does that look like a bagpipe?  A beautiful orange color with those nozzles filtering the sea water.

Finger-like cluster.

A little fish hiding out.  I had trouble getting its photo because it would look directly at the camera so all you could see was its eyes and lips.  We had a school of fish that hung out in the shade of our villa behind the pilings.

Another color and shape for these tube-like structures.  The different varieties of sea life were endless (and I have more photos to prove it).

Snorkeling is one of our pleasures.  Here the resort is on a large bay, not the open ocean; thus, there are no large waves or currents to contend with.  The coral formations are smaller, not major reefs.  I was initially disappointed with the snorkel fins we were provided.  They were short, less efficient than the longer fins, but, after using them, they were adequate for the conditions we experienced.  When we expressed our interest in snorkeling, we were moved to villa #1 which is positioned in deeper water and very close to decent coral formations away from the other villas and development.

Our villa with Dawn tying up her kayak.  All the buildings are authentic from Bali with furniture, sculpture, paintings, and intricately carved wood panels.

A calm morning looking from our deck past the kayaks and plunge pool toward the nearby point of mangroves and coral beds concealed nearby.

Dawn out in one of our kayaks.  She really enjoyed it; asked me if I would build her one (perhaps).  I want her to try out the boat I am now building first.

We came across two yachts anchored on the other side of our island "Frangipani Island" when we were circumnavigating it.  In the distance, to the west, you can see the cloud-shrouded high country of western Panama near the Costa Rican border.

Our villa was very comfortable, king bed with curtains, walk-in shower, seating area, folding doors with large windows which you could open onto the covered deck.  We had a plunge pool which we never used.  At night there was absolute quiet and looking out from our deck across the water it was absolute black, no lights from the open water or jungle-shrouded shores.

On one of our kayak ventures, we visited an island with a large nesting population of sea birds.  They were swirling in the skies before our visit.  You had to get close to create any additional disturbance.

The weather was variable.  Snorkeling is best on sunny days, midmorning or early afternoon when the sun's rays penetrate deeply to light up the underwater environment.  We use full body suits, rash guards, to protect us from sunburn.  When it was cloudier, we preferred to use our provided kayaks, but even then, we would wear long sleeves and wide-brimmed hats to protect us from the sun.  One day we circumnavigated our hundred-acre island.  We had to follow the contours of every bay since we were unaware of its actual shape and, from a distance, overlapping islands could appear as a continuous shoreline.  We made additional forays to check out other nearby islands.

We flew from Panama City (Albrook) via Air Panama to Bocas.  On the way there, the flight was one hour late.  On the return flight, it was 45 minutes late.  Tocumen International Airport is east of downtown Panama City and Albrook is west of downtown.  The traffic getting through downtown is generally a congested mess.  Our taxi drivers were educated, interesting, and fluent in English which made the commute better.  We stayed overnight at The Santa Maria resort and golf course which is very nice.  We were able to take a long walk in the beautiful surrounding neighborhood.  The hotel would reserve us a taxi to Tocumen for $35.  A taxi company would do it for $30.  We used an Uber service which cost $10.

A portion of the Panama City skyline.  The central city is very modern with fancy cars, stores, hotels, and eateries.  As you get further away, the country takes on a third world view.  The people are very nice; I worry about self-serving and corrupt government (in the US also).  Panama is a very strategic country connecting South America with Central America.  The transit fee for one large cargo vessel to pass through the canal is more than a million dollars!

Would we go back?  Maybe.  A very relaxing and unique vacation.  Given that this is our third Panama visit, we were twice asked if we were considering retiring in Panama.  There is a large community of US retirees near Boquete in the mountains of western Panama. We found the resident people to be very friendly and welcoming.  We still have not seen it all. 

Copa Airlines provided first class, non-stop, on-time flights to and from Panama.  Tocumen Airport opened their new Terminal 2 the week we arrived.  It is beautiful, spacious, and convenient.  Arriving back in Denver with front row seats on the aircraft, no checked baggage, and Global Entry registration, we basically walked off the aircraft and were able to go directly out of the terminal and on to waiting transportation.  No Covid concerns!

  

The Island of Roatan

 

Looking at Puerta Azul from the beach.  Enough tropical forest for you?  There are about seven buildings on site (a main lodge and guest cottages).

Looking out toward the dock and reef.  The "puerta azul" or blue door is the entrance to the long dock.

We are told that we are visiting Roatan at the start of their warmest season.  Makes sense due to the sun being directly overhead on its way north until June 21.  Our rented house here is fully air conditioned; however, at the windows we have screens and wooden shutters, no window glass. Thus, we have the choice of A/C and no light from the windows (closed shutters), or light but no effective A/C.  Still, we have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, living room, and a basic kitchen to enjoy.

It reminds us of our time living in Panama. Tropical nights are long year around; sunrise is announced by the crowing of chickens, the cooing of pigeons, and the bleating of goats (from nearby “farmlets”) before the sun actually appears.  Dense tropical vegetation delays the morning sun even longer. 

A sample of staghorn coral.  There were simply too many types of coral to capture them all.  There were large fields of fan coral, some of an intense purple color.  There were huge formations of brain coral also.  Some areas looked like an underwater forest of small trees.

I caught this fish out in the open where it couldn't hide.  Before we got to the reef, we had to cross a field of sea grass.  I saw a large stingray there but was unable to get a photo (first day out wearing those crappy short fins).

Roatan is still very much part of a third world country.  It was in evidence during our drive from the airport and also at a visit to our nearby bodega.  When I first stopped here, 42 years ago, English was the almost universal language. However, Honduran mainlanders noticed that this island was relatively more prosperous due to tourism and have moved here in response.  Now, Spanish is a strong second language here; combined with more congestion and the loitering of those still seeking employment.

The big reason to come to Roatan is for snorkeling or scuba diving.  Our hotel/lodge is set up for excellent access to snorkeling at the reef just offshore.  Other accommodations favor the scuba diving tourist.  The western half of this island is somewhat developed while the eastern portion is usually visited on a powerboat excursion.  The reef here is part of the second largest reef worldwide, the Mesoamerican Reef which stretches about 700 miles from northern Yucatan to the Honduran Bay Islands.  The snorkeling may be the best in the Caribbean.

This was one of the first fish we came upon.  I took 100+ photos but will post only a few samples of what we encountered.

A small sample of fan coral on the edge of a deep drop off.  I have never been attracted to scuba diving: more equipment, air refills, and it gets colder and darker as you go deeper.  The most colorful coral seems to prosper in the sunlight nearer to the surface.

We bring our own snorkels and masks; ours are simple snorkel tubes with no valves to complicate things.  Let the snorkel fill with water when submerged to reduce buoyancy.  I want no air restriction and perfect reliability; our snorkels are 40+ years old.  Not all faces are the same shape, and a leaking mask from a poor fit or a rim seal which has lost its pliability can ruin a trip.  I think that Dawn's mask is ready for replacement due to reduced pliability in the rim seal.  You want a wide-angle, close fitting, low volume mask with a soft (usually silicone) rim seal and a soft nose covering.

Good swim fins are harder to transport; physics dictates that the fins must be about two feet long (longer is better) to provide efficient thrust from your legs.  Shorter "travel fins" are sold but are definitely inferior.  The fins our hotel initially rented to us were crap.  Instead of imparting a "wave" motion, it was more like a "barndoor" motion. We exchanged them for longer fins which were many times better.  Still the fins need to fit your feet.  I have wide feet which resulted in sores from pressure points; it is the first time I have had that problem.  We used to have our own fins when we lived in Panama.  I really don't want to have to add them to our luggage.  We had no checked luggage for this trip; makes for a quick departure.  We have experienced lost checked baggage in the past.

Larry floating near the surface.  He and his wife, Janet, are harder core than Dawn & I.  They got up early to get in one last snorkel.  We slept in.

Dawn wearing her rash guard.  It is great to have a wife who enjoys such activities as much as I do.

This is the biggest fish we saw, about 2 1/2 feet long.  I saw a barracuda of about the same length, but they are slender, and that is only a small barracuda.  Larry & Janet saw bigger fish which were gone before we got to the location.

Hard to catch a small quick fish like this in a photo.  Often, they would hide under a coral formation as we approached.

I brought my underwater camera.  It is on the low budget end of the spectrum but can produce good pictures if everything goes right.  Fish are the most difficult photo subjects.  If they sense your interest in them, they tend to either hide or swim quickly away.  Stepwise photo sequence: 1) check to see if the camera is on (it automatically shuts down to save battery if you pause too long between photos), 2) take a breath & put your tongue in the interior snorkel opening to keep salt water out of your mouth, 3) surface dive lifting your legs out of the water using their weight to start a vertical dive, then flutter kick, 4) if going to depth, pinch your nose (through the soft mask) and blow your nose to equalize pressure (and avoid pain). 5) keep kicking to get close, if you stop, you will bob to the surface, 6) you can't take time to focus, you must be quick, point the camera in the right direction and use wide-angle, 7) make sure you hit the right button; on/off & shutter buttons are close together, 8) was the fish still present?  you may just get a narrow rear view as it flees, 9) success! now relax, let natural buoyancy lift you to the surface, 10) as you reach the surface (not before), fill your cheeks with air from your lungs, remove your tongue from the interior snorkel tube opening, and forcefully blow to clear the snorkel tube.  Our rash guard suits add some buoyancy; the problem is more likely to be too much buoyancy rather than not enough.  This limits your ability to go deep.

A grazing school of fish constantly moving across the coral landscape.

A major concern for us was avoiding sunburn.  Our pale Colorado bodies had been covered all winter to avoid the cold.  We both have "rash guards" which are thin nylon suits to cover the entire body.  Larry (couple we were with) showed me to use a baseball cap turned backwards to cover your head and neck when snorkeling.  It is kept in place by the mask straps.

Directions to the reef were easy: Walk to the end of the dock, put on your gear, and swim out.  When crossing the boat channel (marked by buoys) look both ways and cross briskly. We were advised to not try to cross the reef by a local, due to the danger of being trapped and pounded by those breaking waves but discovered that it could be done by steering toward those areas where the waves were not breaking and then searching for a shallow channel to follow.  We swam along the outside (open sea) edge of the reef to a point where a deep reef break existed, "Spooky Channel".  It was called that because it was so deep that in places you could not see the bottom, or it was a faint shadow.  Then we would return following the inside edge (beach adjacent) of the reef and recrossing the boat channel.

Just a small view looking into Spooky Channel.  When you can't see the bottom, your imagination wonders what may lurk there in the cold depths.

Orville, a long-time resident with a 22' panga boat, took us to this site.  The several cannons from a pirate ship are real, but the location is staged.  The cannon, an anchor, and other relics were brought from a different wreck location

Do you see the trumpet fish?  Usually, you find this type fish hovering vertically, imitating a coral frond while awaiting prey.

A living conch of good size, about a foot long.  Most of what we found were empty shells.

One day we went on an excursion with Orville in his 22' panga OB.  Being a longtime local he was able to show us some of the better areas and joined us in the water.  He knew the names of all the fish species and pointed out lobsters, conch shells, sea anemones, and cuttle fish.  So many types of coral that I could not describe them all!  We saw many more types of fish than I was able to record.  Dawn and I saw nothing that was really impressive in size; the largest fish being about 2 1/2 feet long, but Larry & Janet, a couple we were with, saw fish up to 4' long.  I saw no sharks, eels or lionfish; a few barracuda but none were over 2 1/2 feet long.

Schools of small fish would hover near a protective coral formation.
  

We made a few forays by taxi away from our hotel to attractions east and west on the island.  We had dinner at a nice restaurant "Sunken Fish" at a nearby hotel and enjoyed the sunset there.  We took a taxi into West End, poorly kept, touristy, lots of bars, not our cup of tea.  We also took a taxi to the Roatan Island Brewery.  Interesting in that the facility is essentially outdoors.  The beer is good, but they served it with ice.  Drink quick or drink it watery.

Roatan locals are friendly and easy to talk to.  Prices are moderate; neither cheap nor expensive.  The flight there from the US is less than three hours.  Will we go back?  The snorkeling is the attraction, otherwise, no reason to return.  We were slightly disappointed with the ambiance.  Third world is depressing.  There are too many other attractive areas to explore.

Hiding in the shade of a nearby soft coral.

Can you see the antennae of the lobster hiding in its coral cave?

When snorkeling on the outside of the reef, you are hundreds of yards away from the shore with no direct route to the beach.  If any emergency occurred, the only option is self-rescue. Larry and Janet were a welcome addition to our snorkeling party.  Before departing from Roatan, the plan was to stay in touch with them.  I was going to send them photos of our snorkel outings.  Unfortunately, the business card that Janet gave me for contact information was completely out of date with no useful information.