Bariloche & Llao Llao Resort

We have been at Llao Llao resort for a week and are impressed. Resort activities are all inclusive: golf, kayaking, tennis, archery, hiking, mountain biking, outdoor infinity pool, rappelling.  Then, of course, there are the spa, Pilates, fitness equipment, reading room, indoor pool, billiards, table tennis, etc.  Thus far we have been hiking, mountain biking, archery, and Pilates.

Sub-tropical rain forest begins just past the tennis court in this photo. Trails lead to isolated beaches to the east and west along this isthmus.  We rode mountain bikes across the golf course and into the forest.

A beach cove on the lake.  Some private homes are located in the park; sales of land to some individuals brought the needed funds to develop the remainder of the park.

Doesn't this look like an ocean fjord?  The photo was taken looking out from the same cove as shown above.

San Carlos de Bariloche is touristy and has experienced recent rapid growth.  As a result, it is congested, has many construction projects underway, and has a fringe of scrap-made shacks from people coming here to seek work.  I am glad that we booked this resort, surrounded by forest and lakes and located 20 miles west of the city.

Okay, the secret is out: Dawn walks her bike up the steeper sections of trail.

Sunrise and the moon setting from our hotel window.

Sunset, also from our hotel window.  The beauty was outstanding in every direction we looked at this location.

Panuelo marina, directly adjacent to Llao Llao resort.  Boat excursions depart from here to all parts of the lake.

We are in northern Patagonia, and the scenery is everything you could imagine. The hotel is on an isthmus between multiple lakes, surrounded by mountains, covered by dense forests. The lakes are pristine; wide, deep, clear, with many bays, islands, and channels; large enough for commercial boat trips several hours in length. We are surrounded by rugged mountains with exposed craggy peaks; showing the first snows of the coming winter.  The forests are dense old growth; huge trees with trunks 4-5 feet in diameter extending more than a hundred feet high.  It reminds us of the old growth forest we encountered in the San Juan islands in the Pacific NW.  This is the region where the story of Bambi, the deer, originated, and it truly is a storybook surrounding.

Typical shoreline of Lago Nahuel Huapi seen while on an excursion.

Docked near the Chilean border, waiting for passengers to embark/disembark from the border crossing.

We took an all-day commercial boat excursion on Lago Nahuel Huapi to the Chilean border.  This is an incredible lake: surface area of 200+ square miles, depth of 1400+ feet, and cold (45 degree F.), clear water fed by snow and glaciers.  The scenery is very similar to the fjords of Norway; multiple waterfalls cascading down steep surrounding mountain slopes.  At the far end of our trip, a few tourists joined our group after passing through the border procedures,  the border at this point is a remote customs outpost on a rough gravel road connecting to the dock on the lake.

We also took an excursion by tourist van to Cerro Tronador, a glacier-clad extinct volcano whose highest peak marks the border between Argentina and Chile.  The road is mainly a rough, one-lane, gravel road, discouraged for use by rental cars (no wonder the shock absorbers were shot when we tried to rent a car).

Lago Mascardi, note the color of the water has been changed by suspended minerals in the waters entering from glacier-fed sources.

This is actually a telephoto shot of Cerro Tronador, (11,736' tall) taken from in front of our hotel, about 30 miles away.  I use a cheap ($150) Sony camera, small enough to hide in my shirt pocket, and it gets great results.

Base camp.  Time for lunch before we drive up to the base of the glaciers.

The glacier's edge is about 90 meters thick.  people in this region report that the climate has been significantly warmer with less rain in recent years.

The atmosphere in this area is European; probably for good reason.  Many citizens here are the offspring of European immigrants.  Culturally, Europe is the model for their institutions. They pay heavy taxes and in return enjoy "free" government services.  Buildings and homes here have an Alpine look. In winter, the resort becomes a ski lodge. Temperatures are mild enough that the ski season is only three months long.

Argentina essentials

Argentina has recently become much more friendly to visit.  Previously they had a $160 "visa" tax on incoming Americans which was abolished about six months ago.  Now they have exempted visitors with a foreign passport and a foreign credit card from paying their stiff 21% VAT on larger purchases starting this January.  Much of the economy still seems to run on cash; in addition to credit cards; I would recommend bringing dollars. Even if your credit card company collects no foreign transaction fees, the local banks which run the ATMs will charge a transaction fee.  We have also found long lines outside ATMs some days, and banks here have limited hours.  We have exchanged currency at our hotel and Western Union ($10 fee) as well as an ATM.  Some people will take US dollars.  Hotels prefer to list cost in dollars, because of peso fluctuation.

Argentina has 220 volt electricity and more than one plug type. We have found US sockets, European sockets, and a unique Argentinian socket type (which may be similar to Australia). Fortunately, hotels will have plug adapters to borrow. With many modern electronics, voltage is often adaptable. Dawn has a 220V hair dryer, bought in Europe, which is handy on these trips.

A complete evening meal for two can easily cost 700-1000 pesos.  So expensive?  We have to remind ourselves that is only $45-$65.  Carrying 2000 pesos is only about $130; enough to pay for an excursion and meal.  I would strongly recommend some knowledge of Spanish when visiting.  It can be done without, but some familiarity makes it so much more comfortable.  Not all ATMs, subway instructions, or airport check-ins will have English versions.

Argentinian Spanish differs slightly from Spain or Mexico.  This morning, we learned that the double L sound 'll' which would be pronounced like a 'y' in Spain, is here pronounced with a 'sh' sound.  Spanish here seems to be very clearly enunciated to us.  Many of the vowels are pronounced similar to English usage.  Interesting: I could understand announcements in Spanish on the subway in Buenos Aires better than announcements in English on the subway when we visit Washington, D.C.

 
On the subway and in crowded areas I carry my billfold in my front pocket, but we have not been in a situation that felt unsafe.  We are routinely careful and were advised to not walk in certain areas at night. In a metro area of 14 million, such situations should be expected.  The Argentine people are routinely friendly and helpful.

We rented a car for a day trip to some scenic locations.  Because it was only for one day and we were taking no luggage, we signed up for a entry level car, a small Chevy.  We headed out in the morning planning to cover about 200 Km (125 miles).  But, after driving only a short distance, a big dog ran out in front of the car (left to right) forcing emergency braking and swerving to avoid the dog.  (There are many stray dogs in Argentina.)  Dawn was driving and almost lost control of the car in the maneuver. 

The car body rocked violently from side to side, reacting far beyond her steering wheel input.  We pulled over to the shoulder while Dawn regained her composure.  Then we decided to take the car back to the rental agency.  If another such situation occurred, the outcome would questionable.  What if a car changed lanes suddenly in front of us, which could easily happen in the "relaxed" driving rules of Argentina?  Obviously, the installed shock absorbers were non-functional.  This results from driving on the rough gravel roads common in this area. Standing beside the car, I could easily rock it from side to side just from pushing with my hands.

The lesson here is that vehicles in regions like this may not be maintained to normal specifications.  In this case, we could have had a serious accident.  In retrospect, we should have investigated more closely and considered more upscale vehicles.

Buenos Aires

Our arrival in Buenos Aires was well timed.  The weather had been in the 90's Fahrenheit; then a cool front came through the night before our arrival to push temperatures down into the pleasant 70's. It was a one-hour car transfer from the airport to our hotel.  The driver was talkative; first question was 'what do you think of your new President?' Then he launched into Argentinian politics and life. Buenos Aires metro area has almost 14 million persons; one third are at or below the poverty level. Eternal struggle between rich and poor.

After our ten hour flight, we crashed at the hotel for a few hours; then it was off to find dinner.  Our boutique hotel (15 rooms) is in Palermo Viejo, an Italian neighborhood. It's considered a good area, but still reeks of "third world".  Not necessarily a bad thing, but it has distinct characteristics.  Watch out for the dog poo, uneven sidewalks, broken/missing tiles, and scattered trash. (That could also describe Washington, DC).  Many small shops; you need to look closely to find their shop sign. The food and service is good; although not cheap.  Our hotel staff are extremely helpful.

Our first full day was fantastic. We walked to Evita's (Eva Peron) grave; toured an outstanding open market of handmade goods; and then joined up with a tour guide and two other couples (from England and Denmark) for a tour of the area.  Eva Peron (Duarte) is buried in Recoleta Cemetery, one of the most amazing cemeteries on earth.  The monuments in this cemetery are huge and ornate.  They are actually small buildings, extending 25-30 feet below ground with space for multiple coffins, stairways, windows, displays, and extensive original carvings and statues.  Only the wealthiest and most famous get buried here.

Our guide was from Venezuela; trained as a professor but reduced to supplementing his income with conducting tours.  With his background, he explained the economic and political history of Argentina. Quite complicated! We ended up at the Kirchner Cultural Centre (one of the largest on earth) for an evening concert.  Our outdoor dinner started at 10:30pm (many restaurants open at 8pm). We were able to flag down a late taxi for a ride home.

We visited two locations today.  First, we took a boat trip to Tigre, exploring the Rio de La Plata delta. The homes there are on the river, which is their means of transport.  Apparently, even fresh water is brought in by boat. A wide variety of homes from beautiful to shacks.

Along the way we stopped in San Ysidro, very wealthy, beautiful area where the Argentina president has a home.  A very tall and well-kept cathedral is located there. Many public spaces are not so well kept.

Next, we went right into downtown Buenos Aires to visit the presidential palace, "the pink house", national cathedral, and other grand buildings.

Then we came home on the subway during rush hour; wish I got a picture of that, but the subway car was so packed that I had no room to get my camera out.  It was a real sense of accomplishment to get my SUBE card, load it with pesos and navigate the signs and tunnels of the subway system to get us to multiple locations around the city.

The Island of Maui

I have visited the Hawaiian Islands multiple times (7) and have enjoyed every visit.  The overall climate is perfect: tropical, but not with oppressive heat and humidity.  The scenery is beautiful; the amenities are well-organized; there are a wide variety of activities to enjoy.  Sort of a huge version of Disney World.  Of the islands, Maui is my favorite.  It is the second largest island in area; is centrally located and includes diverse climate and vegetation variations.

On our recent trip we hiked a beach trail near Kapalua, went whale watching out of Maalaea harbor, drove the winding north coast road to Hana, drove above the tree line to Haleakala crater at 10,000' altitude, had a great restaurant luncheon near the small town of Paia, enjoyed the neighborhood and beaches near our condo at Kamaole, and swam & snorkeled further south at Makena beach.  Many other activities are also available.  I had my first encounter with a stand-up paddleboard (SUP); still have much to learn.

Hiking near the north end of Kapalua beach trail.  The island of Molokai is in the background.  We also saw whales spouting off the coast near here.

The trail is a sea of mud bounded by tall bamboo plants.  Do you see the two small figures far ahead?

Meghan and I, in an imitation of a "Tough Mudder" event, slogged four miles of Pipiwai Trail (south of Hana) to the 400' high Waimoku waterfall.  In this rain forest area it had rained daily for the past month, and the trail (up the mountainside) was a sea of mud in places.  Bamboo forest surrounds much of the trail.

The drive to Hana is an event in itself.  There are 50+ one lane bridges to cross on this winding road through lush rain forest.  Expect to average about 20mph.

Looking west at sunset from Makena beach, the islet of Molokini and island of Kahoolawe are included in the view.  The island of Lanai is visible when looking further north.

We brought our masks & snorkels, but forgot to rent swim fins (hard to pack in a suitcase) before going to Makena beach.  The snorkeling appeared good, but without fins I couldn't maneuver properly in the wind, waves, and current off this rocky point.  We missed being able to adequately explore the area and take some better pictures.

Sunset at Kamaole beach near our condominium.  On previous visits to Maui, we stayed at Lahaina and Kaanapali.  Dawn says she preferred Kaanapali, but I think it was just that we stayed in a nicer condo in a better groomed area.  Wailea would be comparable.

The crater on Haleakala is huge and desert-like, miles across.  The photo is looking east; Hana and Waimoku falls are beyond the far edge of the crater.  Temperature at the crater was in the 50's.

From the top of Haleakala you can look southeast to see the snow-capped peaks of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa (not shown, but just to the right) on the big island of Hawaii.

We were able to watch windsurfers in the big waves off the beach while having lunch at this scenic restaurant.

 

Washington, D. C.

Washington, DC, is a place I enjoy visiting; always teeming with activity and always growing.  The parks and museums are interesting; many places to visit.  As the focus of our nation's wealth and power, lobbyists, unions, trade organizations, NGOs, international organizations, and every other conceivable group have representatives here to play their part.  The city is highly stratified economically and racially.  Growing wealth pushes poorer citizens out from the center of the city as tenements are re-developed into high end condos.

My son & his wife live in a predominantly Hispanic section of the city near subsidized housing; priced out of more affluent neighborhoods.  For some reason, the residents of subsidized housing seem unwilling or unable to pick up their discarded trash along the sidewalks.  Sirens are surprisingly frequent as police and fire personnel are called out to minister to semi-conscious drunks and other minor disturbances.  Modern buildings experience few real fires; thus, the medical & rescue service helps justify more city personnel in these departments. 

 

It was a Thanksgiving visit with cold, blustery weather.  And I caught a virus; spent much of the visit resting.  But our hotel was beautifully decorated, and Rock Creek Park is directly adjacent; thus, we had pleasant surroundings and were able to take a long walk in the park every day.  While DC is a place we enjoy visiting, we are also glad to leave and return to Colorado. 

Santa Barbara, CA

Arriving in San Luis Obispo just after sunset after a day on Highway 1, we were famished. Our hotel had free drinks and snacks, and we quickly gorged ourselves enough to ruin any chance for a normal dinner. San Luis Obispo is a college town, a perfect, modest-sized town of about 50,000, with a vibrant central shopping area.  It also has a well-maintained old Catholic Mission.  With its amenities and location, as you might expect, housing is expensive.  Very little new housing is being built.

Heading south, we took a detour to Lake Cachuma on our way to Santa Barbara. The "lake" was practically empty! When I was a student, our rowing club would practice with an eight-man shell on this lake's broad surface; not anymore. Santa Barbara; what a fantastic place!  The climate is sublime; as students, we never needed to turn on heat or A/C; temperatures were so mild. Its physical beauty is still obvious; flowers, palm trees, wide beaches; an ocean (with offshore islands) on one side and mountains on the other.  Tourism is big business.  But we sensed its congestion; everyone wants to be there. Housing prices are astronomical. 

 

A modest home near our B&B was valued at 2.25 million and would be considered a "tear down"; surrounded by neighboring homes costing 2-3 times as much. In the Hope Ranch neighborhood the home prices are tens of millions. When I was at U.C. Santa Barbara the enrollment was 12,000; now it is over 20,000. We simply could not afford to move back to Santa Barbara and expect a home anywhere near as comfortable as we have in Colorado.

We spent an afternoon walking barefoot on the beach, walked downtown through the large tourist area of shops and restaurants, and discovered an extensive farmers' market set up on State Street. The marina was full of yachts, and a cruise ship arrived on our second day there. Near the university, we rediscovered the apartment house where Dawn & I first met; walked to the library; checked out a food market we used to frequent. When I was a student, the girls were all blondes; now they are all brunettes; Hispanic, Asian, Black. Where did the blondes go? So many more buildings, more students, more bicycle paths and skate boards.  And surfboards; at how many campuses can you surf between classes?

It had been thirty years since I last visited this area.  When you think back to "home" it is more than a place; it is also a time.  So many changes have taken place.  I am glad that we made so many good memories when we lived in Santa Barbara, Monterey, Marin, and Sonoma.  They are still beautiful as places to visit, but the atmosphere has changed.  Instead of optimism, there is a sense of trying to hold on to what you have amid changes in the culture and increasing congestion.

 

Along the California Coast

This will be a bit of a sentimental journey. California holds many memories for Dawn & myself. We flew into Sacramento (free United flight), and headed our rental Corolla north to Grass Valley. The Gold Rush towns of the 1848+ era are still there with their Victorian homes, but now they attract tourists, marijuana growers, and those looking for a little slower pace of life.  We were there to check Dawn's parents' home which is being rented and, hopefully, do some hiking. Unfortunately, the Fall rains had already begun. Lots of craft & antique stores to peruse while staying out of the weather; I found a rare book set to buy.

Then off to the wine-growing region of Napa valley. It was expensive, touristy, and somewhat disappointing. We met up with our daughter, who was in Napa on business and who would join us for the weekend. Leaving, we drove through a light, night rain over the hills, to stay in the Sonoma valley. We viewed the cottage where we lived 1972-74 and had breakfast with one of Dawn's cousins. So much growth has taken place in this region! It used to be farms, pastures, and vineyards; now there are golf courses, shopping malls, and many new housing tracts.

Along the north coast, Highway 1 and Point Reyes, the scenery is still exceptional; cloud-shrouded hills, clumps of huge Eucalyptus trees and pines, endless ocean waves, and sheltered coves. The sun would peep through occasionally. We came across a coyote which, while appearing healthy, seemed peculiarly tame and approached within twenty feet of us. Stinson Beach, although a broad sandy expanse, was cool, cloudy, and somewhat somber. Memories: the last time we were there, Dawn and I were dating. Then on to explore Muir beach & woods.

Muir Woods are inspiring. The tall redwoods make you feel like an ant in comparison. Towering redwoods create their own rain by filtering the moisture from passing clouds; collecting it into droplets until enough is present to fall to the ground. On this day real rain fell occasionally. We hiked about six miles at Muir and China Camp and encountered deer and a flock of wild turkeys. The whole of Marin County is a rugged peninsula with a central spine of high hills (mountains?). Looking out from the Marin highlands, the view of San Francisco Bay, the Golden Gate Bridge, and the city are spectacularly scenic.

After an overnight in Alameda to get Meghan on her flight, we spent the next day following the central California coast. Seventeen-mile Drive in Monterey has beautiful homes on a scenic peninsula with an integrated golf course.  Carmel is full of cute shops and homes and the old Carmel Mission and museum.

Highway 1, leaving Carmel, becomes one of the most scenic drives I have experienced. The road winds its way across the steep hillsides and cliffs where the ocean crashes against rocks below while the hilltops were wreathed in clouds a thousand feet above.

  The weather was perfect, and it seemed the favorite vehicle to enjoy this drive was a Mustang GT convertible; we saw many of them.  Dawn wanted to stop at most every turnout to take pictures.  The trip has stirred her emotions; why did we ever leave California? Of course, we are touring the most beautiful areas of California at a perfect time of year.  Recent fall rains have turned the hills green; the temperatures are perfect; and the summer crowds are gone.