Istanbul, first encounter

Istanbul is one of the most fabled cities on our planet.  It is the meeting place of Europe and Asia.  It was at the forefront of a historic struggle between Christianity and Islam.  Istanbul and Turkiye control access to the Black Sea where the current war in Ukraine is taking place.  Turkiye is the refuge for many Middle Eastern refugees from the conflicts taking place there.  (And the EU is paying Turkiye to keep the refugees there instead of proceeding into central Europe.)  Turkiye is controlled by the dictator Erdogan (in power 20+ years) but no one in Turkiye will call him a dictator because they may then lose their job, end up in jail, or suddenly disappear.  The population of Turkiye is about 85 million of which 20 million live in the Istanbul area.

The Turkish Lira is the national currency, but everyone asks to be paid in Euros, often in cash. (We spent about 900 Euros cash there.)  The Turkish lira is suffering from serious inflation.  Many Turks are trying to establish a second citizenship elsewhere.  People can see and sense the worsening conditions.  Refugees without money or jobs still tend to have large numbers of children which become a burden.  As we have seen elsewhere, the actual Turkish people are open and friendly, but their government is corrupt and oppressive.  This should be a lesson for all of us.

Istanbul as seen from an open rooftop restaurant near our hotel.  We are looking to the south toward Topkapi Palace on a wooded peninsula.

People we met near home who had visited Istanbul previously had called it "amazing".  Amazing, yes, but in a good way?  We planned our own visit to this exotic site.  Who speaks Turkish?  Only those who live there; thus, we were more careful than usual in booking our transport and stays in this country.  Our initial stay was in the Taksim neighborhood in central Istanbul.  Our hotel had an excellent location and helpful staff, but sleeping was difficult.  The bed was small; the blankets were even smaller.  We were on the first floor (in Europe the ground floor is floor "0"); just below us were narrow, crowded, busy streets where loud conversations took place until at least midnight.  We had a police station next door.  A plain clothes policeman stood guard with a submachinegun next to the restaurant we frequented.

Our police station next door.  We witnessed two men being brought in wearing handcuffs.

Domes in these mosques were impressive in their detail and structure, especially when you consider how old they are.

One of many mosques.  In Europe, we saw Christian cathedrals of similar magnificence.  Are these structures built to celebrate their god, or to demonstrate the power of the church leadership?  Think of what could be accomplished if the same cost and labor were devoted to public health, education, basic utilities, food production, etc.  Meanwhile, the common people live very modest lives.

Notice the concrete street markers to keep vehicles off the sidewalks (as seen from our hotel).  Streets are so narrow that, to turn a corner, often the vehicle would have to stop and back up and get a second approach angle.  

We spent our first day visiting the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Royal Cistern, and Grand Bazaar.  Those major mosques were feats of engineering when first produced and are still impressive today.  You can easily get lost in the Grand Bazaar.  The Cisterns were a private source of water for the palace royalty. We were supposed to attend an evening cruise/dinner on the Bosphorus, but I came down with a strange ailment.  We still have no idea what to call it (no appetite, no energy, chills, and sharp pains on the right side of my head); fortunately, it only lasted for a short time.  We were able to walk the nearby areas including Istiklal Street, a major shopping district.  Of course, each of these areas included major crowds; more likely locals than foreign tourists.  Three nights in Istanbul, then it was off to our next destination.

Dawn shopping at the Grand Bazaar.  We bought nothing, little room in our suitcases, and we are not into trinkets.  It is said that the Grand Bazaar has 10,000 shops.

Evening shopping on Istiklal Street, along with about 50,000 other persons.  You could come to Istanbul with no luggage; buy yourself a suitcase and fill it with high-quality knockoff merchandise to take home.  All the famous brands are here, but are they authentic?  All we bought was sorbet/ ice cream.

Same street but earlier in the day; our hotel was only two blocks away.  When you live in the city, apparently shopping is a major evening activity.

  
    

Salzburg, Munich, and onward

 The trip from Hall to Salzburg, Austria is an easy drive.  In fact, along the way, we stopped in the village Reit Im Winkl and revisited the guesthouse where Dawn's father was stationed for several months after the end of World War II.  At that time, the village posting was sort of an R&R for her father after enduring all that he had since D-Day.  Her father had crossed Utah Beach on D-Day and stayed with the Allied advance across Europe until Germany surrendered.  Once back in the States, he did not talk about his war experiences for the next forty years.  While we were stationed in Europe, he came to visit and retrace his path across France, Belgium, and Germany.  Dawn and our son, Colin, accompanied him for part of that journey.  Now Dawn was visiting again, with a first time visit for me.   Reit Im Winkl is still a mountain village but with growth occurring.

Salzburg as viewed from our accommodation in Bergheim.

Our Gasthof overlooking Salzburg.  As you can see, it is located in a rural pastoral location with walking trails nearby.

Salzburg was our goal.  It is still advertised as the site of the "Sound of Music" movie location and, we discovered, attracts legions of tourists.  We came for the setting and architecture, but found mainly crowds of tourists when we ventured into the city.  Our accommodation was excellent in the suburb of Bergheim, farmlands surrounding a repurposed monastery overlooking the city of Salzburg.  Instead of wading through city crowds, we elected to take a 'Sound of Music' hike to the mountain meadow where Julie Andrews sang her famous lyrics.  It was actually a decent hike, starting in a village, then upward through the forest, and finally opening up to the actual meadow with an ingenious monument through which you can view the movie characters in place against the mountain backdrop.  There is an adjacent farm, and I would guess that Julie & company drove to the location using their driveway rather than the hike we took.

What an idyllic background for the Sound of Music!  Note the castle.

Note the same castle in the background.

Now note the same castle in the background with the film characters superimposed, painted onto a clear glass pane.

From Salzburg, it was back to Munich for two nights to turn in our rented car (a new KIA), visit central Munich, and prepare for our next flight.  Munich was beginning their Octoberfest celebration and, again, it was a city besieged by hordes of tourists. We took the train into town and back (standing room only) to Hallbergmoos, again appreciating our quiet village.

I have other photos of Munich, but they all look about the same with a multitude of tourists.
         

Garmisch, Germany to Hall, Austria

 Garmisch is incredibly scenic, located in a valley surrounded by tall, jagged mountains.  It is also touristy, but surprisingly we hear very little English spoken and only a small portion of commercial signs include English versions.  Since we are staying in a large American hotel here with American customers, that seems odd.  Perhaps our sample is not representative.  We have been renting bikes to explore the area, much better than fighting traffic in a car.  Parking is at a premium.  Today we also took a gondola ride to a mountain top for a true panoramic view.  The peak still had substantial snow from a recent cold front that came through.  The peak is also a launch site for paraglides.  I watched a woman unsuccessfully launch.  She misjudged the wind, didn’t get as much lift as needed, and failed to clear some trees.  She was not hurt.  The pine trees snagged her and her canopy but cushioned her descent to the ground.  The weather was perfect, it was the weekend, and everyone was outdoors enjoying the sun before winter truly sets in.

She didn't make it.  Too low with trees ahead.  But she was unhurt and gathered her gear for another try.

Recent snow on the mountain top, but beautiful weather today.

Preparation for a paraglider launch.  Like launching a kite.  You run down the slope, look up to see the canopy inflated, then accelerate for liftoff.

Doesn't that look like an amazing experience?  Like a bird high above the Garmisch-Partenkirchen valley.

We visited the Olympic ski jump stadium, recalling memories for me of when I took a paragliding /hang gliding course here and our final exam was a paragliding launch from atop a ski slope with a landing in this very stadium.  I was too busy then to pursue the sport, and now I am too old.  Nearby is a deep & narrow gorge where they have created a narrow walkway by excavating into one wall of the gorge.  It was worth the ten Euro entry fee.  The passage through the gorge was narrow and wet.  It was also popular; at times we needed to wait for other tourists to pass through a narrow spot before advancing through the gorge ourselves.

A waterfall coming off the side of the gorge wall.

A guardrail has been placed to protect people from slipping off the narrow, excavated path in the gorge wall.

 From Garmisch, Germany, we drove to Hall in Tirol, Austria, a beautiful drive through forested mountains and only about 1 1/2 hours away.  We found Hall to be even more enjoyable.  Our first night there, Sunday, we had difficulty finding an open restaurant for dinner.  Our Gasthof hostess gave us an address; after walking to the indicated location, we saw no sign (it was dark, and the sign was small and unlit), no people, only an unlocked door.  Entering and ascending a stairway brought us the sound of conversation, the warmth of occupied space, and the smell of cooking.  The evening was very enjoyable with a friendly host to interpret and advise on the menu. The goulash was wonderful.

A beautiful day in Hall, Austria.

We have escaped the tourist hordes in this neat little town of Hall, very walkable.

The view from our Gasthof room balcony.  Our accommodation is located on the Inn River.  Crossing the river on a pedestrian bridge brings us to the actual town of Hall.

We started climbing the valley slopes with our mountain e-bikes on quiet country roads until we came to this scenic chapel.

Looking down on the fields below in the Inn valley.

The terrain got much steeper as we entered a rough logging trail.  We lost our GPS signal and took a wrong turn before finding the trail (and by-passing a red crossbar) we wanted as shown on a paper map we were using.

To our right, the narrow trail dropped of steeply into a thousand-foot-deep ravine.  Keep your eyes on the trail; stop before turning to look to the right.

Finally at the top, the trail opened up into a broad meadow.

The following day we rented mountain e-bikes from our Gasthof hostess and ascended above the Inn River valley to get a better view.  We came across a steep logging trail (closed by a red crossbar) which climbed the backside of a mountain to where it eventually crested the ridged peak.  Bypassing the bar, we started up the rough trail.  At places, small avalanches had crossed the trail from recent heavy snow, leaving limbs and mounds of snow behind. There was no turning back. When we traversed the peak, we had gained more than 3000 feet in altitude.

These were pedal-assist bikes with limited battery capacity.  If you don’t pedal, they don’t go.  If you use too much assist, you are left with an exhausted battery and heavy bike to pedal on your own.  There was no cellular coverage on the backside of that mountain.  If we had a flat tire or mechanical problem, we were on our own.   But the views were spectacular, and we made it!  On the front side of the mountain was a restaurant with paraglide launch where we could get a drink and some apple strudel to refresh ourselves.  The frontside road (with very little traffic) was paved and included many switchbacks in its descent. We coasted, swooping through the curves, for 20-30 minutes, riding our brakes, coming down that mountain, curve after curve.  But with a great sense of accomplishment.

At the paraglider launch site, looking south across the Inn River valley to snow-crested peaks on another mountain range.

The following day we took the tram to nearby Innsbruck, a much larger and more touristy city.  We have found that a good travel formula is to stay in a smaller town and commute to the metropolis nearby.  In this case, the tram ride was free both ways.

                                            

Innsbruck, Austria, more sights to see, more shops to explore, and more tourists.

Revisiting the Past, Germany

Views while bicycling in Garmisch valley

We lived in Bavaria 1988-91.  We are now back in Bavaria, and Austria, for the next eleven days.  The beginning of this trip was inauspicious, but now things are starting to settle in.  Despite preparation efforts, we (mainly me) forgot to pack some essentials.  At Denver airport, we ended up going through an extremely long security line because we “assumed” we had TSA pre check, and we were wrong.  Our Lufthansa aircraft was huge, an A350-900, I am always amazed they can get such a heavy load off the runway.  Overnight ten-hour flight (and 45 minutes delay) with a crying child nearby.

We have flown through Munich airport previously, but this time it was our destination…. and then to find our rental car at the far end of the farthest parking garage.  Next, we struggled with establishing telephone service; it apparently just takes a while.  GPS is essential to us.  I did well in choosing an accommodation, located in the small town of Hallbergmoos.  Comfortable, reasonably priced, great restaurant, and friendly people.  The beer tasted as good as I remember.

After sitting in the aircraft for 11 hours, we were anxious to get out and stretch our legs.  An extended exploration of Hallbergmoos provided that exercise.  We found a nice walking path which follows a stream through the woods including two parks along the way.  Germany is as clean and well organized as we remember. Tomorrow, we head for the Alps.  

At Garmisch, we checked in at the Edelweiss Resort & Hotel, a hotel owned by the US government.  We are told it is one of four hotels world-wide in a similar arrangement. The others are in Tokyo, Honolulu, and Orlando. As with anything run by government, it was okay but not outstanding.  One of our meals there is memorable for being the worst we have encountered…. and it was relatively expensive.

Edelweiss Resort & Hotel is essentially a US base and, as such, is surrounded by a fence with barbed wire and has gate guards.  It is an R&R site for active-duty US military in Europe, with retirees allowed on a space-available basis.  Dawn was especially looking forward to this accommodation, but it ended up not being special.

Great views from the Garmisch-Partenkirchen valley with recent snow showing on the nearby peaks.

The Military Experience, a different way to travel/live

 [Written several years ago]

All our generation probably remembers where they were when President Kennedy was shot.  How many remember the Cuban missile crisis which preceded that?  The Hungarian revolution of 1956?  The Korean War?  All were historic events, but we were too young to have any direct connection with such major occurrences.

Yesterday I was listening to the song ‘Where were you (when the world stopped turning)’ by Alan Jackson.  The song always affects me deeply, renewing my realization about how the world has changed and those specific incidents that bring history to life.  I am sure we all remember where we were when the World Trade Towers in New York were hit on 9/11.  Having spent a career in our military, certain events have provided additional markers making world events even more real.

VIETNAM

Riverine patrol headed out, early morning, for a mission.  Their battles were fought at close range on the feeder canals off the Mekong River; thus, although slow, these vessels relied on their heavy armor.

I spent most of 1967 in the Mekong Delta region of Vietnam.  We were usually upriver in the combat zone, watching patrols go out daily.  I worked in the navigation department of our flat-bottomed repair ship (a converted LST hull) which could handle the shallow depths of the river.  Once we had crossed the Pacific Ocean to Vietnam, most members of our navigation section were rotated out, and I was one of the few remaining.  I kept the charts (maps) and pubs (notices to mariners on navigation changes) up to date.  Calculated tides and currents.  Wound the chronometer and recorded its deviation from the time standard.  Also recorded weather observations to be sent to central forecasting.  Made coffee for the officers and washed their cups.  Cleaned and polished.  When shifting anchorages (done daily to foil enemy planning), I would provide ranges and bearings for plotting our progress and new position.  In the evenings, I would stand signal watches (looking for flashing light morse code from nearby ships) and security watches (using a starlight scope which magnified the ambient starlight to where you could spot movement on the riverbanks).  In my spare time I learned to identify the letters in flag hoists, semaphore signaling and more about celestial navigation.

As you can see, the deck of our riverine repair ship was a jumble of materials, hoists, and machinery for servicing the patrol craft, plus one individual enjoying a noon-time nap.

The ship’s bridge, where I worked is the top deck of the ship.  I had a great view of everything occurring. There was a constant ring of patrol craft encircling our ship, preventing any Vietnamese boats from getting too close, looking for objects (mines) in the water, and sometimes stopping a boat for inspection. 

Some of the riverine landing craft were equipped with helicopter decks; the helo pilot had to be pretty good to land on that small target.  

Our ship, USS Askari, was part of a small flotilla including barracks ships for the troops and supply ships which would come and go bringing parts, personnel, and provisions.  Patrols consisted mainly of heavily armored landing craft, top speed less than ten mph, which would go up the narrow feeder canals and then slug it out in close quarters encounters with the Viet Cong or deliver US Army troops for sweeps through the rice paddies.  USS Askari had an extensive machine shop to maintain the craft, repair battle damage, and add bar armor to counter the evolving threat of shaped-charge rockets which could melt conventional steel plate. 

Occasionally, I would see a SEAL team returning at sunrise from a mission in their Boston whalers, shoveling handfuls of expended cartridges over the side of their boat, after ambushing the enemy.  Our Riverine Flotilla was a combined arms force.  We had troops from the 9^th Infantry Division embarked to land and advance across the rice paddies chasing the enemy.  During the daytime, we had USAF air support including napalm strikes.  At night, modified AC-47s with multi-barreled miniguns would lay down a curtain of bullets on identified targets.  At 6000 rounds per minute, the tracers looked like a steady stream from a fire hose.

Did we accomplish anything?  As I wrote to a friend at the time, I was watching artillery fire on a hillside that was a repeat of a shelling on the same hillside six months prior.  I saw no identifiable progress in our efforts.  But for our leadership, Johnson and McNamara, winning was never the goal.

One bar after another.  They all cleared out at about 10pm when the curfew went into effect.  Then it was deserted streets patrolled by Vietnamese soldiers with submachine guns.

I watched the Vietnamese people suffer.  On the river, the native boats were kept away from us, but periodically we visited Vung Tau to resupply.  Crippled men with crude crutches or even part of a face missing.  Young women renting their bodies to earn a living.  Soldiers carrying submachine guns on urban patrol.  A few friends and I found a remote off-limits restaurant, Windy Beach Café, run by a single lady.  You had to hike down a deserted dusty road to find it.  We would show up and change into our bathing suits, then entrust her with our clothes and wallets.  After enjoying the surf on this rocky beach, she would serve us lunch and a beer.  We were never overcharged.

This was the main beach area near Vung Tau, called Back Beach because it was several miles outside of the city.  The water, at certain seasons, was so warm that you could feel yourself sweating underwater.  We went here only infrequently.  On one of those occasions, we sat down at a bar with a group of Australian soldiers; along with conversation, they kept ordering rounds of beer until I could not keep up.

 

Windy Beach was our more common beach destination.  Off limits, almost private, and very relaxing.

In the town of Vung Tau, I made acquaintance with a young girl, 10-11 years old, who was always there selling carved pineapples (the outer peel removed).  We would always greet each other.  One day when I brought no money, just planning to go to the main beach, she gave me a pineapple saying that I could pay her next time we met.  Of course, I honored that concession.  Whatever happened to her?  Honorable people eking out an existence in a war-torn country with an uncertain future.

Seeing all this creates a deep appreciation for life and all that our country has to offer.  Not to be taken for granted.

Locked in the confines of that 325-foot-long ship for months, you get to know fellow sailors well.  There was a group of bigtime gamblers.  There were drugs: marijuana, and opium.  You learned who to trust, who to discount, who to respect and who to not loan money to.  Shipmates came from all walks of life.  The ship was small enough that we knew each other as individuals; where you came from, or your ethnic heritage was unimportant in our relationships.  If you have seen a WWII movie with military from all walks of life, this was the atmosphere.  Although few if any crew on this ship were drafted, the presence of a draft certainly served as encouragement to enlist for some.  I had joined the US Navy Reserves at age 17, when I was a junior in high school.  The extra money might be helpful for college.

A SAILOR'S TALE

Mike L. came from Ventura, California.  He was a handsome, athletic, friendly guy.  Looking down from the ship's bridge, I noticed him on his very first day as he approached the ship’s gangplank while we were loading supplies in Oakland, CA.  He looked truly lost.  Mike had joined the US Navy Reserve out of high school.  He got a summer job in Yosemite NP for the summer and stopped attending Reserve meetings.  The Navy sent him a letter warning that if he didn’t attend meetings, he would be kicked out of the Reserves.  Mike had lost interest in the Navy and was ready to quit the Reserves, so he ignored the letter.  What he didn’t understand was that he would instead be placed on active duty.

Thus, Mike stood there at the Askari gangplank with his seabag full of uniforms but knew nothing about the US Navy.  Didn’t know how to wear the uniform; didn’t know the rank structure; had never been to basic training or been on a ship, but now he was on his way to Vietnam.  A few friends and I took him under our care and schooled him as we crossed the Pacific Ocean.

Coming off the ocean and approaching the Vietnamese coast, our first visit to our new homeport of Vung Tau, the ship was at high readiness.  All stations manned and ready.  And there was Mike L.’s mother waiting for us on the dock!  His parents had divorced early.  Mike stated that he and his sister had pretty much raised themselves; both parents had gone on to other relationships.  Mike’s mother was an attractive blonde contract executive assistant in Saigon.  She had a senior Army colonel boyfriend who had learned where the ship would dock and flown her down in a helicopter to greet her son.  The Askari captain was stunned.

Mike was athletic; he could walk on his hands and encouraged me to learn how to do it.  (A skill I was able to maintain until I broke a bone in my shoulder while skiing, Lake Placid, age 55.)  So, he volunteered for SEAL training.  Imagine that, in Vietnam trying to be a SEAL and never attending boot camp!  He was sent to a location in the Philippines for preliminary testing but lacked the will to stay with it, carrying a log on his shoulders every morning while running on the beach.

Next, Mike got into drugs.  He wasn’t the only one, and it ultimately came to the attention of the officers.  A surprise inspection was held.  All suspects were held in one room and then their lockers and bunks were inspected one-at-a-time for drugs.  Mike asked to go to the bathroom and had a moment to remove a large box of marijuana from his locker, setting it on the deck, then quickly returning to confinement.  When it was his turn for inspection, the inspecting officer kicked the offending box out of the way to access his locker.  No drugs were found, although only a few feet away!

Even though no drugs were found, Mike and others were sent home, separated from the Navy, and given general discharges.  (A general discharge, while less than honorable still allows benefits.)  Mike was first sent to Saigon, packing with him his large box of marijuana.  While in Saigon awaiting further transportation, he was approached by a Vietnamese man offering a deal:  If Mike would buy him a refrigerator in the US military PX, the man would also pay for a new stereo system for Mike.  Mike agreed to the arrangement.  Mike replaced the packing material in his stereo boxes with his stash of marijuana.  It was all shipped back to the US.

The result was that Mike was back in California, separated from the military, had GI bill benefits for college, and had a new stereo and a large amount of marijuana for personal use.  How is that for punishment!  Months later, when my first Vietnam tour was complete and I was assigned to Long Beach, I visited Mike and met his sister, a nice looking blonde.  Mike knew the area, had friends, and was someone to hang out with when I was off duty.  He had access to a private swimming pool where we could take girls on dates and have an outdoor picnic.

From there, I was sent back to Vietnam a second time.  On the new ship, there were also shipmates secreting drugs onboard prior to our departure.  You could find these individuals furtively sitting in clusters on remote corners of the deck at night, staring up at the stars above the open Pacific, and saying things that they thought were profound, but were really rather obvious (or nonsensical) to the unaffected.  We stopped at Hawaii, Midway, Guam, and Subic Bay PI, as well as underway refueling on our Trans-Pacific voyage.  Destroyers are faster and thirstier for fuel than the Askari repair vessel of my previous voyage.

During our stop at Subic Bay, I was assigned Shore Patrol duty.  This meant that, instead of drinking with shipmates, I strapped a Gov't .45 pistol to my waist, stayed sober, and watched fellow sailors making sure that they did not get into trouble while drinking.  Interestingly, that evening I had a chance to talk to one of the barmaids, Teresa DeGuzman, who told me she had a college degree in education but could make more money serving drinks to US sailors than if employed as a schoolteacher.  Such was the economy of the Philippines.

After arrival, we cruised the Gulf of Tonkin guarding aircraft carriers; alternately, our destroyer’s six 5-inch guns were used for coastal fire support.  I was discharged from the US Navy at Treasure Island, San Francisco, one day before college classes began at UC Santa Barbara, and I immediately took a bus south to meet my new housemates at Goleta.  I had no vehicle, was extremely committed to my new environment, and I did not see Mike again for years.

The story gets worse from here, as recounted by Mike.  Mike didn’t stop the drugs.  One night he passed out at a party and broke two front teeth.  He ultimately lost his job, was kicked out of an apartment, and dropped out of school.  He moved to Hawaii for a while where he worked construction.  Five years later, Dawn and I were living in Sonoma County (northern CA), and she was working in a medical office.  A young man came in seeking care for suspected scabies.  When he stated his name, she started asking if he had been to Vietnam and knew a guy named Wayne Grabow.  It freaked him out because he had never met Dawn, but she had heard me talk about Mike.  It was Mike L.; he was living in a cabin in the woods in NorCal.

 

Mike L. working on the deck crew painting our ship.  Lower left is Irwin T., another California boy, serving his time on the ship.  Irwin's wife sent him an enticing calendar featuring pictures of her to keep him monogamous.  (It worked, and, no, he didn't share the photos.) Irwin eventually was a student at UC Santa Barbara with me, although he had to improve his grades at a State College before being accepted.

PANAMA

Summer of 1979 our family was assigned to Fort Gulick on the Atlantic Coast of Panama.  Carter was President, and it had been decided to give the US-built Panama Canal to the country of Panama.  The Canal Zone had been there for generations.  People born and raised there were called “Zonians”; the government and culture they knew was about to disappear.  The Canal Zone was prosperous, efficient, and well-maintained.  Panama was a grubby, backwards country run by the dictator, Torrijos, who died in an unexplained plane crash in 1981 and was replaced by Manuel Noriega.  Noriega had received his military education at the US-led School of the Americas on Fort Gulick where we lived.  It was agreed that there would be a one-year transition period.

During the transition period, US buildings were refreshed to be in good condition prior to a Panama takeover.  The preschool our children attended was deemed not adequate for turnover and was closed for renovation.  For law enforcement, joint patrols between Panamanian police and those in the Zone were initiated.  The Canal Zone police were good at catching criminals, and the Panamanian police dealt out harsh punishment.

Noriega ruled by force and corruption.  In our three years in the Zone, Noriega never visited the Atlantic coast.  It was rumored that he feared being killed if he were to visit the neglected town of Colon. We experienced the entire transition.  Once the Canal Zone was gone, the US flag was not allowed to be flown unless the Panama flag was flown above it.  Thus, we had a base ceremony in which the US flag was lowered at sunset and then a small explosive charge was detonated to bring down the flagpole.

We have visited Panama twice in recent years.  The home we lived in is still there, part of a civilian neighborhood now.  The broken swing on our neighborhood playground is still broken.  The clinic I worked in is now part of a resort hotel complex.  The buildings that the US renovated are now abandoned with the roofs caving in and the interiors ruined.

Panamanians have a favorable opinion of the United States.  Many have US connections.  English is widely understood.  They remember that the US came back later and deposed Noriega the dictator in 1989.  The US dollar is still their standard currency.  However, Panama is trending to leftist influence and return to strongman government, like other countries in the region.

 

GERMANY

We arrived in Germany in summer 1988.  After accepting new leased quarters in the small town of Elsenfeld, I needed to buy a second car because I would be commuting to Aschaffenburg, some distance away.  I visited the local German Ford dealership, happened to strike up a conversation with the owner, Hans Schafer, of the dealership, and we became friends.  He found me the perfect car, but we also developed a social relationship, visited each other’s homes, met his wife Ursula, dining out, and some holiday gifts.  The Soviet Union was breaking down.  Hans and I had discussed the dissension occurring in the Soviet Union, but we were both surprised when the Iron Curtain collapsed so quickly.  I was incredibly busy at that time, but Dawn was able to take advantage of this historic passing.

She visited Prague both before and shortly after the borders opened.  Great shopping for porcelain and crystal.  The difference was striking.  The streets of Prague had been silent (everyone with the sense of being watched by secret police), then the streets and central plaza became the site of celebration. Dawn also took our children out of school and drove to Berlin where the three of them witnessed the Berlin Wall being toppled.  We still have souvenir Wall fragments stored in our basement.  The children also experienced passing through the East German border guard process (still functioning at that time) with the entry to the guard station, showing of passports and strict questioning.

When the Iron Curtain guard gates had completely been abandoned, we were able to take the entire family on a day trip to East Germany, about two hours away.  The differences were striking.  They had crude heating systems, smoke billowing from chimneys; thus, all the homes were drab and sooty.  The cars, i.e., Trabants & Ladas, were pathetic little boxes with smoking exhaust.  When such vehicles ventured onto the autobahn, there were instances where they were run over by much faster cars who didn’t see their tiny dim taillights.  This is what communism/socialism gets you.

 At the end of our Germany tour, we booked a cruise for the entire family, Venice-Dubrovnik-(Yugoslavia)- Athens-Rhodes-Crete-Corfu-Venice.  We were about the only Americans onboard.  The US Marine barracks in Beirut Lebanon had been bombed only a few years ago (1983), and terrorism against Americans was still occurring (Achille Lauro cruise ship hijacking, 1985).  A Lebanese couple approached us while dining and said, “I hope you are not afraid.  Beirut is actually a very nice city.”  We were most impressed with Dubrovnik, which was amazingly beautiful with the same tall fortress walls present for centuries.

 

NETHERLANDS

Summer 1991 we moved to a new assignment in southern Netherlands.  My Army dental clinic was located at Schinnen, our home was a nice civilian rental home in Hulsburg.  This was a much more relaxing assignment than Germany.  But war broke out in Yugoslavia!  Our Dutch acquaintances asked us, “What will the United States do about this?”  My answer: “This is a purely European conflict.  Why doesn’t Europe take care of this?  The US is always criticized for getting involved, and now we are criticized for NOT getting involved!  What do you want?”  Of course, the US shortly after did become involved.  America is both expected and criticized as the world’s policeman.  Dawn and I wondered; what will happen to beautiful Dubrovnik?  That conflict raged from 1991 to 1997.

We made a road trip to Prague, Terezin, and Dresden.  It was my first visit to Prague.  The atmosphere of celebration there was evident.  I watched a sword swallower perform in the open city plaza.  We stayed at what today would be an Airbnb, an apartment where the occupants stayed elsewhere during our visit. Terezin had been a model Nazi prison camp shown to the Red Cross to give the impression of fair treatment for inmates.  (Inmates were shipped elsewhere for extermination.)  In Dresden, we stopped at the tourist information office and were treated as if it was still a communist dictatorship.  Instead of being given information on various accommodation choices, they dictated to us where we were to stay and what the fee would be.  Our reaction, “No thanks; that is not how we live.  We are leaving.”  We got back in the car, on the autobahn, and drove home, arriving after midnight.

Years later, 2016, Dawn and I revisited Dubrovnik and Croatia, renting a car, and driving from Zagreb to Montenegro.  In Dubrovnik we visited two museums of the war (one in the city itself and the other atop the overlooking mountain) and are happy to report that although the city received significant damage, it has been rebuilt to its original magnificent self.  A young server at a restaurant there explained to us how the war had taken away the enjoyment of his teenage years.  Many of the defenders of the city were simply young men who took up arms with little or no military experience.  When we stayed in a B&B at Plitvice, the family told how they fled to Italy for those seven years and came back to find their home destroyed by those who had been their neighbors.  Such reasonable and educated people with yet profound ethnic grievances.

The Bay of Kotor, Montenegro.  We came from the north and Kotor is on the south side of the bay.  There is no bridge; you take a ferry to get from one side to the other.

Kotor, Montenegro, is a beautiful site on a large, protected fiord.  Unlike Croatia with its tourism-inspired private economy, Montenegro is a socialist country with government ownership.  It is very welcoming to Russians (signs in Cyrillic).  In Dubrovnik, shopkeepers are out early each morning to sweep and wash their store entry and sidewalks.  By contrast, Montenegro was dirtier and more neglected.  Parking was poorly organized and out of control.  Socialism takes away incentives for personal pride and excellent customer service.  When you make something a group responsibility, that means no one person is responsible.  Why put out extra effort?  Let the 'other person' to do it.

NEW YORK

Summer 2001 found us assigned to Fort Drum, New York.  Naturally, we took the opportunity to visit New York City.  Washington, DC, is the most economically and racially polarized city I have experienced, but New York was different.  We experienced people patiently queued in lines with no one trying to cut in.  We saw young people on buses get up to offer their seat for older people.  When in the subway station, people would notice us looking at our route map and would come over and offer to help us.  Riding the subway, people from very diverse backgrounds would strike up conversations together.  The restaurants were not as expensive as expected.  We took a tour of the World Trade Towers; standing on the roof looking out over the entire city was breath-taking.

We were readying for military retirement at that time.  September 9, Dawn returned from a flight trip hunting for our future retirement location.  Two days later, I was treating a patient when word came on the clinic TV that an aircraft hit one of the Towers.  Instantly we knew it was not an accident.  Our whole world had changed.  On her trip of just two days prior, Dawn was able to practically walk on to any waiting flight with no hesitation or interference. That world was gone.

New York City shortly after Sept. 11, 2001.  Smoke still rising from the city and the World Trade Towers are gone.

NY City fire station with flowers and photos of the firemen who died.

The areas of worst damage were blocked off to allow crews to work undisturbed by onlookers.

Statue of Liberty with a US Flag flying.

Not long after, we re-visited New York City with our two children. Remnants of buildings, piles of rubble, memorials with bouquets of flowers, cranes and other construction equipment still sifting through the wreckage.   It was hard to fully realize the enormity of the consequences.

Back on base at Fort Drum, a few people suggested that I may not be allowed to retire.  As the dental representative, I attended the initial meeting of base command staff to plan the 10^th Mountain Division’s deployment to Afghanistan.  They would be the first major unit to be sent.  The meeting was nothing like Hollywood would envision it.  Instead, the meeting had a business-like atmosphere.  History, geography, culture, climate, previous Soviet experience; they were all discussed in a very fact-based manner.  There was no ego-based intonation.  Very calm and thorough.  Sequencing of necessary logistic preparations was begun.

Shortly after, we began processing the troops for deployment.  I remember one young soldier telling me, “We understand that we may die on this mission.  Our main hope is that, if this happens, our lives will not be wasted.”  These outwardly ordinary individuals accept a set of solid values which they are willing to die for.  Our service members have more respect, discipline, and commitment than most civilians.  I couldn’t increase their pay or provide better base housing, but I tried to give them the highest quality dental care possible.

 

CIVILIAN TRAVEL

Dawn and I continue to travel to foreign lands and get a sense of what life is like there.  There are good people everywhere with most of the same concerns we have here in America.  Watching people live in the corruption and inefficiency of Third World countries is educational, but not particularly pleasant.  In a sense, we are all neighbors. We want everyone to share in a life with progress and hope for the future.    

A peek at the underwater world of Sri Lanka and Maldives Islands

 Why do we enjoy snorkeling so much?  These photographs should explain that.  You are floating, weightless, in a different world.  The scenery is amazing. Good exercise. Equipment needed: a snorkel, a mask, swim fins (optional), We usually rent fins because good ones are too long to fit in a carry-on suitcase.  We also use a rash guard instead of sunscreen ointments (stop pollution of our seas).

Technique:  My snorkel is 40+ years old, a simple tube with a bend and a mouthpiece; fancier snorkels (valves or full-face) can create breathing resistance or recycled air with gradual hypoxia.  You want the snorkel to fill with sea water to reduce buoyancy, allowing deeper dives.  The mask should have two separate lenses for a more close-fitting mask with less retained air and a better wide-angle view.  Also, a silicon rubber nose piece, allowing you to pinch and equalize ear pressure.

Our rash guards eliminate sunburn but add buoyancy.  Mixed feelings: the buoyancy keeps pulling me back to the surface; shortens dives but is a reassuring lift when it is time to surface.  Fins increase mobility and enhance maneuvering in swirling waters.  A baseball cap worn backwards and positioned under your mask strap will protect your head and neck from sunburn.  A snug-fitting T-shirt might be an option to the rash guard with less buoyancy. 

Breathing:  Deep breath, then dive.  Do not release air until you are back on the surface, then transfer air from lungs to cheeks, remove your tongue from the snorkel mouthpiece and blow outward forcefully to completely expel water from the snorkel. Repeat deep breath.  Even if you do not dive, use this technique.  Otherwise, you may take unexpected water into the snorkel (waves) without the reserve breath to expel it.   

I have omitted any panoramic views; hard to capture and not as meaningful unless you experienced the surroundings.  Things like a large school of fish passing by at some distance, or the submerged view of waves crashing on boulders, or small fish hiding in an extensive coral formation. 

The coral shown here is far less healthy than we have seen at other locations such as Bocas del Toro (Panama}, Roatan, Belize, Galapagos, or Tuamotus (near Tahiti).  I am wondering whether the tsunami had anything to do with the massive die off.