Benoa, Bali, plus Sumba, Komodo

Statue at the entrance to Ulun Danu Temple

I was told that this is the actual "temple", but it looks more like an isolated monument to me.  Still, it is very scenic to behold.

The temple grounds included extensive gardens.

We spent three days at the island of Bali.  For the 2nd and 3rd days we were tied up to a pier at Benoa.  Benoa is the main tourist destination on Bali.  At Perth, Australia, I was told that Bali is only a two-hour flight away, convenient for even a weekend trip.  Workers from the Australian mines would go to Bali to drink and party.  Prices on Bali are lower than Perth, so the partiers could save money as well.

The traffic getting to Ulun Danu Temple was fierce.

At one point on our bus was held up by hundreds of Hindu worshipers headed for the local temple for a religious service. At a point ahead, all the worshipers were crossing the road unto a side path.

From there, Dawn and I went on a bus excursion to Ulun Danu Temple, likely the most scenic location on the island.  It was a Saturday, and the grounds included plenty of local visitors, but there was room for all.  The drive there was about 40 miles and took two hours.  The traffic was endless.  Again, for almost the entire distance except when passing through some rice paddies, the narrow roads were lined with shops and homes located right at the edge of the pavement. The Temple grounds are located at the edge of a lake with mountains in the background.  The elevation was about 2,000 feet, high enough that the temperature was pleasant, in the 70’s.

Very beautiful scenery.  The northern part of Bali is mountainous; the south is somewhat level.  This lake is in a valley at the base of the northern mountains.

Not sure what the boats are used for, but they present a colorful scene. 

Hinduism includes worship of a mountain god and a water god….very in touch with nature.  However, Dawn and I noted that wherever there was a steep embankment at the edge of the road, not otherwise occupied, there were mounds of trash (bags, baskets, and other castoffs) which had been pitched off the edge of the road, not scenic or in harmony with nature.

Benoa harbor, as the center of foreign tourism, was full of wave runners, speed boats, waterskiing, parasailing, and party boats.

A large party boat heading out.  Does it include free drinks?  I would guess so.

Our long bus ride to Lake Bratan and Ulun Danu temple.

Our visit to Bali has been educational and has greatly changed our perception of this tropical ‘paradise’.  We have no interest in ever returning here.

From Bali, our cruise ship went to Waingapu on the Indonesian island of Sumba.  This island is further to the east and more isolated.  When we disembarked the ship for an excursion into town, we were met with a beat-up old van, ratted-out interior, missing external parts, open windows (no A/C), and very limited seating.  We rode that van into town.... and stayed in our seats all the way back to our ship.  The town was so depressing, crude shops, no well-maintained buildings, that there was nothing 'interesting' for us to look at; just hot and dusty.  We had seen enough poverty already.

Fishing boat on the lookout for prey at the edge of a large coral reef.

Note the tall single mast on both boats; probably not CG approved.

Near to our ship was a very large coral reef complex. It was low tide, and the reef was almost exposed.  About a hundred people were out wading on the reef looking for sea creatures that they could pluck out and take home for dinner.  A few boats were cruising at the edge of the reef with spotters atop a mast, apparently also looking for marine prey.

The following day, our cruise ship, Insignia, was at Komodo Island, the home of the famous Komodo Dragon.  We were anchored out; the island is part of a national park and purposely kept isolated.  The only way to get shore was to sign up for a short and expensive boat ride to shore and a walk to hopefully come across some dragons. We elected to stay aboard.  Komodo Island is also known as an excellent snorkeling/scuba location, but our ship had no provision for such activities.

Komodo Island, very little sign of development except for the offshore boats bringing tourists.

Dawn and I were not eager to walk the rugged landscape of Komodo Island and meet a Dragon at ground level.  Fellow passengers who did go on the excursion didn't have much to report except, "Yes, we saw one."

Celukan Bawang, north shore of the island Bali

We were headed for a coastal resort on the north shore of the island of Bali, and, of course, traffic is heavy on the coastal road.

Amazing how much can be carried on a single motorbike.  Alternately, you would frequently see husband-wife-child-and a bag of purchases all on one motorbike.  Rule is that everyone should have a helmet, but that was often ignored.

The resort itself was beautiful with extensive gardens.  We were fed an excellent buffet meal with many native dishes.

Lovina Beach Resort had a beautiful pool (water temperature perfect).

Many boats tied up adjacent to the resort beach.  The water here was shallow extending for a significant distance offshore.

Those are my feet; we are playing with Rummikub tiles while relaxing on a covered platform.

Extensive lawn and thatched buildings for those staying for a few days.  Bali is beautiful for the tourists; the life of average citizens is considerably different.

I used the infinity pool.  Most of it was about six feet deep with a portion at the far end where you could wade.

We spent our time today at Lovina Beach Hotel on the north shore of the island of Bali. The bus ride there was an hour long: a one-hour sermon on Hinduism by our tour guide.  What I got out of the talk was that Hinduism teaches you to be satisfied with whatever life you have (the caste system). Your life is predetermined to a great extent.  Every event in your life, or that of a relative, requires a celebration which can be quite expensive.  Your duty is to honor the spirits of your ancestors.  If you have any spare time or money, it should be spent on temples-monuments-alters honoring those ancestors, Now I understand why Hinduism is synonymous with backwardness and poverty.  Bali is 87% Hindu.

During that one-hour bus drive, we could observe the endless poverty lining both sides of the road.  The people are very nice, but it is difficult for me to see their conditions improving.  The culture must change first.  If someone wanted to even widen one of their narrow roads, all the homes and businesses would have to move.  Those homes and businesses are located very close to the edge of the present road, seldom is there ever even a sidewalk.

The Lovina resort was very nice for a third-world location.  They served an extensive buffet of native dishes, and I tried almost all of them (and may skip dinner).  The dishes tasted good but not exceptional.  The resort is on a black sand beach, not pristine.  A beautiful infinity pool was there for our use, perfect temperature.  The grounds are shaded by many palm trees.  We relaxed on a raised cushion bed under an open thatched roof for shade.

Semarang, Java (Indonesia) and a bit of Surabaya

The port of Semarang on Java is backed by mountains but not so tall as those on Borneo.  We had just crossed the equator, and I was hoping for an excursion to cooler surroundings, so we picked a visit to some ancient Hindu temples located at altitude.

We began the trip in buses, but as we ascending to higher altitude, the roads became narrow and winding, so we switched to minivans instead.  The roads ultimately became simple paths between well-tended farmer's fields.  Upon reaching a final parking lot, we had another choice: walk the remaining distance or go horseback (lead by guides).

When a farmer dies, his fields are normally split between his male children.  With multiple children, the resulting fields are getting smaller and less able to support a family. 

Dawn and I, plus three others, chose to walk the remaining distance to the temples.  As you can see, most people chose to ride horses, each led by a handler.

These are ancient monuments with some effort being made to reconstruct the dislodged stones piled to one side.

These monuments/temples are meant to worship ancestors in the Hindu religion.  Dawn has an eye for close-up photos; thus, you will see her in some of my photos.

The mountain top, although not too high, was obscured by clouds.

This is a volcanic area, and there are fissures belching forth steam and hot water.  A sulfur smell was present.  There was a commercial hot bath building at this site.

We visited six different parts of Indonesia during a weeklong period. We started with the island of Java and the ports of Semarang and Surabaya.  Java is one of the most densely populated places on earth, 157 million on one island.  We were advised to take anti-malaria medication in preparation for visiting Indonesia.

First, we went on a bus tour to mountain-side Hindu Temples in the highlands above Semarang.  Our final goal was a site at between 3,500-4,000-foot altitude, so the temperature was milder than the coastal lowlands.  Interestingly, altitude also corresponds to economic levels.  We were told that Hinduism promotes that the higher you are, the closer you are to your god.  We could see this for ourselves as our bus ascended the mountainside. At one point we had to switch from buses to much smaller vans.  At the end, we were transversing crude farm paths used to reach hillside crops.  As we ascended, the living conditions improved from shacks to more substantial homes, but few looked to be fully completed and well maintained.

In port at Surabaya, Java.  Due to smog/fog at sea level and surrounded by city, you could see little beyond the ship.

A major statue, looking out to sea, at Surabaya port, but we get only an outline due to poor visibility.

The following day, our ship was tied up at a dock in Surabaya.  It is a large industrial/port city.  The smog was quite visible.  Depressed from viewing such widespread poverty, Dawn and I elected to visit the city's largest shopping mall (2nd largest in the entire country of Indonesia).  Even with massive poverty, there are wealthy people in every country, and this mall serves that wealthy segment.  Perhaps the largest mall I have ever visited (excluding Dubai).  At least five levels with multiple wings branching off.  It would be easy to get lost.  I am sure that we did not see all of it.  

When you buy clothing, I am sure that you have noticed that much of it is sewn in Southeast Asia.  We found quality clothing at very favorable prices.  How much more can we fit in our suitcases?  The clerks were amazing; they all spoke clear English as one of their languages.  I would guess that working here is a favored job.

The island of Java, part of Indonesia, is home to 157 MILLION people, the most densely populated island on earth.  Indonesia, with a total population of 287 million persons distributed on a large number of islands; more than 17,000 islands total, is the 4th most populated country on earth (just below the US at #3).

It is so depressing to see people living such meager lives.  Driving to our various destinations, we couldn't help but see the hand-to-mouth conditions that many people here live under.  Our tour guide used the word “struggling” to describe the majority of the population.  I have no desire to flaunt that we enjoy a better life than the people here.  They are fellow humans with the same feelings and hopes as us.  During our entire tour, we were constantly fending off vendors and beggars (not much different except that some held objects in their hands while others simply held out a hand.)

Questions on many subjects were asked of our local guides: religion, government, education, healthcare.  People everywhere seem to have the same concerns.  Just don’t try to tell me that all cultures are equal.  The reason some of these countries are so poor is because of their backwards cultures and corrupt governments (the two are related).  Of course, we need to worry about the same issues here in the US.  Too many of our citizens do not understand or care how our federal government properly functions, even as it affects almost every aspect of our lives.

Malaysia and Brunei

One of the lesser peaks in Eastern Malaysia, seen on our way toward Mt. Kinabalu.

Leaving Manila, we then had two stops on the island of Borneo: Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia, and Muara, Brunei.  Being a smaller ship, we could, and did, make stops in smaller ports which may only see a cruise ship a few times per month.  Borneo is the third largest of earth's islands with tall mountains, unexplored jungles, and land area shared by several nations.

The peak of Mt. Kinabalu is rarely visible, usually (as on this day) cloaked in heavy clouds.

On our one day in East Malaysia, on the island of Borneo, we took a bus trip from Sabah to a nearby park on the slopes of Mountain Kinabalu, at 13,435 feet tall the tallest peak on the island.  We were at about the 5,000 feet level, high enough that the temperature was in the comfortable mid 70’s.  We took a short hike on a rough single-file trail (stepping over roots, around mud, and down embankments) through the rain forest, while a guide attempted to describe the unique plants living there.  Then we re-boarded the bus for a lukewarm lunch at a scenic hotel.

On the trail at Kota Kinabalu; Dawn is ahead of me.

Clear stream coming down the mountainside.

Our luncheon hotel was located on a hilltop.  Here we see the agricultural fields in the valley below.

A few of the hotel wedding guests enjoying the outdoor garden. (Dawn is hidden in the background.)

An elaborate Islamic wedding was also taking place at the hotel.  Our impression of Malaysia was that the natives have a decent life but with small hope that their children will have better opportunities.  They are prosperous enough that traffic congestion is a problem.  However, there were few buildings or homes of architectural beauty, just basic shelter.  Public works projects appeared to be at a standstill or being worked on by very small crews, taking years to complete.  The English language is widely understood as a result of previous British influence.

It was refreshing to enjoy such mild weather, on our mountain excursion, as we approach the world’s equator.

Mosque as seen from shopping mall outdoor courtyard.

The following day was spent in the kingdom of Brunei which occupies only 1% of Borneo's land area.  The wealth of Brunei was obvious, but that wealth is shared by only about 470,000 citizens.  Other people live there, but actual citizenship is difficult to obtain.  There were many beautiful buildings, especially mosques, and many large masonry homes.  We were told that the average Brunei family has more than one vehicle.  Healthcare and education are free for those who qualify.  How can they have such wealth?  Oil production is key.  Also, it is extremely difficult to be accepted for citizenship; we were told of a lady who applied several decades ago and is still waiting.

Mosque as seen from reflecting pool.

The reflecting pool included a stone boat replica accessed by a walkway'

We had planned to tour downtown Brunei on foot, but the weather was so hot and oppressive (to the non-acclimated) that we spent most of our visit in a nice, air-conditioned shopping mall (marble floors, sculpture, courtyard) and only a short time walking along the river and checking out a nearby mosque.  On the far side of the river is a 'water village' composed of densely packed, small, simple homes built on pilings.  I am guessing that is where the non-citizens live.

A small portion of the water village can be seen in the background across the river.  It was such a hot day that we did not want to board a boat and weave our way through the water channels of that village.

The shopping mall we visited, although not ministering to every need, was first rate, well-kept, an excellent selection of world-class merchandise, and accepting of foreign credit cards. Both Dawn and I made purchases there.  Interestingly, Kentucky Fried Chicken, or KFC, is a very popular eatery there (and also in Malaysia).  The official language is Malay with English and Arabic also popular.

Manila, Philippine Islands

                                            

Upon arrival, our ship was greeted by music and dancing girls.  Very enthusiastic despite the heat.  They stayed at the gangplank for hours greeting each person as the debarked.  Note the skyscrapers of a modern city in the background.

This is one of the entrances to the old walled city.

We were in the walled city (created as a fortress for protection from pirates) standing at the edge of a polluted river with a ghetto full of shacks on the far shore.  Two young boys evidently found a piece of wood which they could use as a raft and were paddling across the river using their hands.

The Philippine Island group includes more than 7,000 islands; we spent one day in Manila.  Thus, my impression has a very limited basis, although, I did spend time at Subic Bay on my way to Vietnam many years ago.  I still remember talking with a young woman working as a server at the enlisted club on the American Navy base, even though she had a college teaching degree, because the pay was better.  Our current visit was during Holy Week; cathedrals were mobbed with worshipers.  The people here are highly religious and 86% Catholic.

Our excursion visited several cathedrals (and avoided a few because of massive crowds).  These people are awaiting their turn to enter the nearby cathedral.

The interior of the hotel that General MacArthur used as his headquarters in the latter states of WWII.  Still a very luxurious hotel today.

Manila is large; the number I read is 14 million people, and it is the capital city.  As such, it includes many tall buildings and other first world trappings.  But overall, it is a poor country; I was told 60% are below the poverty line, whatever that level means.  The Catholic church encouraged large families.  Today, that would mean 4-5 children, but it previously was much higher (10-14).

Our tour included a cathedral, museum, historic hotel, park, and fortress.  Prior to independence in 1946, the country was sequentially controlled by the Spanish, British, United States, and Japan.  In 1945, the Battle of Manila was fierce and bloody with US troops, both Army and Marines fighting building-to-building expelling the Japanese.

We were shown a crowded dungeon where 600 mainly civilian prisoners were left to die of starvation and suffocation by the Japanese forces.  This, however, was only a very small part of the estimated 100,000 Philippine citizens who were systematically killed by the Japanese during the battle for Manila.

Today, it is not unusual to find Philippines serving in the US military.  There is a general positive attitude toward the United States.  That was more true back in 1967-8; I remember having that discussion when I first visited, but memories of the US liberation were stronger at that time.

Taipei, Taiwan

Often, a botanical garden is our first excursion when arriving at a new destination.  The quiet, tranquil surroundings are therapeutic.

I forgot to mention "beautiful" to describe the garden.

Main building at the botanical garden

Everything went perfectly in our flight to Taiwan, but it was still a tiring eight-hour move. When we visit Europe, we have some familiarity with the languages and can at least read the alphabet, but here it is truly foreign.  People are helpful, so the experience, although taxing, is not unpleasant. First, we need to find our airline for check-in, then we face security, immigration, customs, baggage claim, and then find our transportation. At our Japan arrival, the immigration line by itself was 75 minutes long.  In Taiwan, the immigration line was about half that. (In Australia it was two hours long, 8pm-10pm when our cruise ship arrived.)

The city of Taipei is about 20 miles east of the international airport.  I was able to pre-arrange for a taxi service to pick us up from the airport and deliver us to our hotel through a service named "Klook.com", an Asian version of Viator.  We had ample luggage and arrived at rush hour, so the taxi made more sense than the metro train system.   We had three nights in our very comfortable hotel, Humble Boutique Hotel, before we joined our cruise ship.  This hotel is in the middle of the city; there is a large shopping mall below ground, beneath the nearby street intersection associated with the metro train system.  With city all around us, we elected to visit (by Uber) the Taipei Botanical Gardens: very quiet, lush, and relaxing.  Nearby was a temple complex, art gallery, and a 12-story condominium complex of amazing architectural design.  Through Google, I discovered that in a poll, Sotheby's rated this condo building one of the top five worldwide for its beauty, function, and integration with the adjacent natural features of the park.  We found it stunning.

This condominium building is surrounded on two sides by the nearby garden.  All the building terraces have lush plantings on them.

Motorcycles and scooters are a major means of transport in Taipei

We encountered dance classes and dancing in an outdoor park.  We were invited to join them.

The following day, we embarked on a very long walk from our hotel enjoying the scenery and attractions along the way.  We came across a park where they were having an outdoor dance with lessons offered for beginners.  They offered for us to join them.  We then passed by a marketplace area with an extremely dense crowd of shoppers.  We stayed out of that, more concerned about health issues than any safety aspect.

Next, we walked to a very nice park complex which included basketball courts, a baseball field, an extensive children’s area, a rose garden, and an historic home with surrounding landscaped grounds.  It was satisfying to watch parents with well-behaved children using the swings, slides, climbing ropes, trampolines, and tree houses at the park.  When we visit our family in Washington, DC, we see unsupervised kids pushing the limits of behavior.... plus, some vagrants passed out on benches.

We elected to keep our distance from this street crowd.  Shopping?  Celebration?  We were not concerned about safety, but about germs and viruses.  We both got very sick on a previous trip from an unknown source.

A very large park is located under the flight path of a local airport.

Who is this 'big kid' using the mini trampoline?

A traditional, historic home was also on display at this park.  You could walk through all the furnished rooms.

Of course, the park also included gardens.

Taiwan in our eyes is very much a first-world country.  Great public services, excellent organization, and law-abiding people.  Taoism is the major religion with many temples evident.  We felt very safe here.  It felt more 'relaxed' than our experience in Japan.  We saw more diversity in dress and lifestyles.  I recently saw a poll (unknown source) that rated the people of Taiwan as the happiest of any in the region.

Our Oceania cruise ship departed from Keelung, a little over 20 miles northeast of Taipei.  Uber is present in Taipei, but their drivers did not want to go that far; thus, we used a taxi to meet up with our ship, Oceania's Insignia.  The ship's first stop was at Kaohsiung in southern Taiwan.  Kaohsiung is an industrial port city; its main attractions on our excursion were temples and religious monuments.

Kaohsiung, Taiwan, with its amazing modern architecture

Note that the young woman is praying prior to adding incense to the smoldering offering in front of the temple.

No shortage of Taoist temples in this region.  There were several other temples at this location.

Perhaps you would like to buy some dried octopus on a stick.