The Military Experience, a different way to travel

 [Written years ago, but unpublished until now]

All our generation probably remembers where they were when President Kennedy was shot.  How many remember the Cuban missile crisis which preceded that?  The Hungarian revolution of 1956?  The Korean War?  All were historic events, but we were too young to have any direct connection with such major occurrences.

Yesterday I was listening to the song ‘Where were you (when the world stopped turning)’ by Alan Jackson.  The song always affects me deeply, renewing my realization about how the world has changed and those specific incidents that bring history to life.  I am sure we all remember where we were when the World Trade Towers in New York were hit on 9/11.  Having spent a career in our military, certain events have provided additional markers making world events even more real.

VIETNAM

I spent most of 1967 in the Mekong Delta region of Vietnam.  We were usually upriver in the combat zone, watching patrols go out daily.  I worked in the navigation department of our flat-bottomed repair ship (a converted LST hull) which could handle the shallow depths of the river.  Once we had crossed the Pacific Ocean to Vietnam, most members of our navigation section were rotated out, and I was one of the few remaining.  I kept the charts (maps) and pubs (notices to mariners on navigation changes) up to date.  Calculated tides and currents.  Wound the chronometer and recorded its deviation from the time standard.  Also recorded weather observations to be sent to central forecasting.  Made coffee for the officers and washed their cups.  Cleaned and polished.  When shifting anchorages (done daily to foil enemy planning), I would provide ranges and bearings for plotting our progress and new position.  In the evenings, I would stand signal watches (looking for flashing light morse code from nearby ships) and security watches (using a starlight scope which magnified the ambient starlight to where you could spot movement on the riverbanks).  In my spare time I learned to identify the letters in flag hoists, semaphore signaling and more about celestial navigation.

The ship’s bridge, where I worked is the top deck of the ship.  I had a great view of everything occurring. There was a constant ring of patrol craft encircling our ship, preventing any Vietnamese boats from getting too close, looking for objects (mines) in the water, and sometimes stopping a boat for inspection. 

Our ship, USS Askari, was part of a small flotilla including barracks ships for the troops and supply ships which would come and go bringing parts, personnel, and provisions.  Patrols consisted mainly of heavily armored landing craft, top speed less than ten mph, which would go up the narrow feeder canals and then slug it out in close quarters encounters with the Viet Cong.  USS Askari had an extensive machine shop to maintain the craft, repair battle damage, and add bar armor to counter the evolving threat of shaped-charge rockets which could melt conventional steel plate. 

Occasionally, I would see a SEAL team returning at sunrise from a mission in their Boston whalers, shoveling handfuls of expended cartridges over the side of their boat, after ambushing the enemy.  Our Riverine Flotilla was a combined arms force.  We had troops from the 9^th Infantry Division embarked to land and advance across the rice paddies chasing the enemy.  During the daytime, we had USAF air support including napalm strikes.  At night, modified AC130s with miniguns would lay down a curtain of bullets on identified targets.  At 6000 rounds per minute, the tracers looked like a steady stream from a fire hose.

Did we accomplish anything?  As I wrote to a friend at the time, I was watching artillery fire on a hillside that was a repeat of a shelling on the same hillside six months prior.  I saw no identifiable progress in our efforts.  But for our leadership, Johnson and McNamara, winning was never the goal.

I watched the Vietnamese people suffer.  On the river, the native boats were kept away from us, but periodically we visited Vung Tau to resupply.  Crippled men with crude crutches or even part of a face missing.  Young women renting their bodies to earn a living.  Soldiers carrying submachine guns on urban patrol.  A few friends and I found a remote off-limits restaurant, Windy Beach Café, run by a single lady.  You had to hike down a deserted dusty road to find it.  We would show up and change into our bathing suits, then entrust her with our clothes and wallets.  After enjoying the surf on this rocky beach, she would serve us lunch and a beer.  We were never overcharged.

In the town of Vung Tau, I made acquaintance with a young girl, 10-11 years old, who was always there selling carved pineapples (the outer peel removed).  We would always greet each other.  One day when I brought no money with me, just planning to go to the main beach, she gave me a pineapple saying that I could pay her next time we met.  Of course, I honored that concession.  Whatever happened to her?  Honorable people eking out an existence in a war-torn country with an uncertain future.

Seeing all this creates a deep appreciation for life and all that our country has to offer.  Not to be taken for granted.

Locked in the confines of that 325-foot-long ship for months, you get to know fellow sailors well.  There was a group of bigtime gamblers.  There were drugs: marijuana, and opium.  You learned who to trust, who to discount, who to respect and who to not loan money to.  Shipmates came from all walks of life.  The ship was small enough that we knew each other as individuals; where you came from, or your ethnic heritage was unimportant.  If you have seen a WWII movie with military from all walks of life, this was the atmosphere.  Although few if any crew on this ship were drafted, the presence of a draft certainly served as encouragement to enlist.

Mike L. came from Ventura, California.  He was a handsome, athletic, friendly guy.  I first noticed him when he approached the ship’s gangplank when we were loading supplies in Oakland, CA.  He looked truly lost.  Mike had joined the US Navy Reserve out of high school.  He got a summer job in Yosemite NP for the summer and stopped attending Reserve meetings.  The Navy sent him a letter warning that if he didn’t attend meetings, he would be kicked out of the Reserves.  Mike had lost interest in the Navy and was ready to quit the Reserves, so he ignored the letter.  What he didn’t understand was that he would instead be placed on active duty.

Thus, Mike stood there at the Askari gangplank with his seabag full of uniforms but knew nothing about the US Navy.  Didn’t know how to wear the uniform; didn’t know the rank structure; had never been to boot camp or been on a ship, but now he was on his way to Vietnam.  A few friends and I took him under our wings and schooled him as we crossed the Pacific Ocean.

Coming off the ocean and approaching the Vietnamese coast, our first visit to our new homeport of Vung Tau, the ship was at high readiness.  All stations manned and ready.  And there was Mike L.’s mother waiting for us on the dock!  His parents had divorced early.  Mike stated that he and his sister had pretty much raised themselves; both parents had gone on to other relationships.  Mike’s mother was an attractive blonde contract executive assistant in Saigon.  She had a senior Army colonel boyfriend who had learned where the ship would dock and flown her down in a helicopter to greet her son.  The Askari captain was stunned.

Mike was athletic; he could walk on his hands and encouraged me to learn how to do it.  (A skill I was able to maintain until I broke a bone in my shoulder while skiing, Lake Placid, age 55.)  So, he volunteered for SEAL training.  Imagine that, in Vietnam trying to be a SEAL and never attending boot camp!  He was sent to a location in the Philippines for preliminary testing but lacked the will to stay with it, carrying a log on his shoulder while running on the beach.

Next, Mike got into drugs.  He wasn’t the only one, and it ultimately came to the attention of the officers.  A surprise inspection was held.  All suspects were held in one room and then their lockers and bunks were inspected one-at-a-time for drugs.  Mike asked to go to the bathroom and had a moment to remove the large box of marijuana from his locker, leaving it on the deck, before returning to confinement.  When it was his turn for inspection, the inspecting officer kicked the offending box out of the way to access his locker.  No drugs were found!

Even though no drugs were found, Mike, and others, were sent home, separated from the Navy, and given general discharges.  (A general discharge, while less than honorable still allows benefits.)  Mike was first sent to Saigon, packing with him his large box of marijuana.  While in Saigon awaiting further transportation, he was approached by a Vietnamese man offering a deal:  If Mike would buy him a refrigerator in the US military PX, the man would also pay for a new stereo system for Mike.  Mike agreed to the arrangement.  Mike replaced the packing material in his stereo boxes with his stash of marijuana.  It was all shipped back to the US.

The result was that Mike was back in California, separated from the military, had GI bill benefits for college, and had a new stereo and a large amount of marijuana for personal use.  How is that for punishment!  Months later, when my first Vietnam tour was complete and I was assigned to Long Beach, I visited Mike and met his sister, a nice looking blonde.  Mike knew the area, had friends, and was someone to hang out with when I was off duty.  He had access to a private pool where we could take dates and have an outdoor picnic.

From there, I was sent back to Vietnam a second time.  On the new ship, there were also shipmates secreting drugs onboard prior to our departure.  We did stop in Hawaii, Midway, Olongapo PI, but did not set foot in Vietnam.  Instead, our destroyer’s six 5” guns were used for coastal fire support.  I was discharged from the US Navy at Treasure Island, San Francisco one day before college classes began, I had no vehicle, and I did not see Mike again for years.

The story gets worse from here.  Mike didn’t stop the drugs.  One night he passed out at a party and broke two front teeth.  He ultimately lost his job, was kicked out of an apartment, and dropped out of school.  He moved to Hawaii for a while.  Five years later, Dawn and I were living in Sonoma County (northern CA), and she was working in a medical office.  A young man came in seeking care for scabies.  When he stated his name, she started asking if he had been to Vietnam and knew a guy named Wayne Grabow.  It was Mike L.; he was living in a cabin in the woods in NorCal.

 

Mike L. working on the deck crew painting our ship.  Lower left is Irwin T., another California boy, serving his time on the ship.  Irwin's wife sent him an enticing calendar featuring pictures of her to keep him monogamous.  (It worked, but, no, he didn't share the photos.) Irwin eventually was a student at UC Santa Barbara at the same time as me, although he had to improve his grades at a State College before being accepted.

PANAMA

Summer of 1979 our family was assigned to Fort Gulick on the Atlantic Coast of Panama.  Carter was President, and it had been decided to give the Panama Canal to the country of Panama.  The Canal Zone had been there for generations.  People born and raised there were called “Zonians”; the government and culture they knew was about to disappear.  The Canal Zone was prosperous, efficient, and well-maintained.  Panama was a grubby, backwards country run by the dictator, Torrijos, who died in an unexplained plane crash in 1981 and was replaced by Manuel Noriega.  Noriega had received his military education at the US-led School of the Americas on Fort Gulick where we lived.  It was agreed that there would be a one-year transition period.

During the transition period, US buildings were refreshed to be in good condition prior to a Panama takeover.  The preschool our children attended was deemed not adequate for turnover and was closed for renovation.  For law enforcement, joint patrols between Panamanian police and those in the Zone were initiated.  The Canal Zone police were good at catching criminals, and the Panamanian police dealt out harsh punishment.

Noriega ruled by force and corruption.  In our three years in the zone, Noriega never visited the Atlantic coast.  It was rumored that he feared being killed if he were to visit the neglected town of Colon. We experienced the entire transition.  Once the Canal Zone was gone, the US flag was not allowed to be flown unless the Panama flag was flown above it.  Thus, we had a base ceremony in which the US flag was lowered at sunset and then a small explosive charge was detonated to bring down the flagpole.

We have visited Panama twice in recent years.  The home we lived in is still there, part of a civilian neighborhood now.  The clinic I worked in is now part of a resort hotel complex.  The buildings that the US renovated are now abandoned with the roofs caving in and the interiors ruined.

Panamanians have a favorable opinion of the United States.  Many have US connections.  English is widely understood.  They remember that the US came back later and deposed Noriega the dictator in 1989.  The US dollar is still their standard currency.  However, Panama is trending to leftist influence and return to strongman government, like other countries in the region.

 

GERMANY

We arrived in Germany in summer 1988.  After accepting new leased quarters in the small town of Elsenfeld, I also needed to buy a second car because I would be commuting to Aschaffenburg, some distance away.  I visited the local German Ford dealership, happened to strike up a conversation with the owner, Hans Schafer, of the dealership, and we became friends.  He found me the perfect car, but we also developed a social relationship, visited each other’s homes, met his wife Ursula, dining out, and some holiday gifts.  The Soviet Union was breaking down.  Hans and I had discussed the dissension occurring in the Soviet Union, but we were both surprised when the Iron Curtain collapsed so quickly.  I was incredibly busy at that time, but Dawn was able to take advantage of this historic passing.

She visited Prague both before and shortly after the borders opened.  Great shopping for porcelain and crystal.  The difference was striking.  The streets of Prague had been silent (everyone with the sense of being watched by secret police), then the streets and central plaza became the site of celebration. Dawn also took our children out of school and drove to Berlin where the three of them witnessed the Berlin Wall being toppled.  We still have souvenir Wall fragments stored in our basement.  The children were also able to witness passing through the East German border guard process (still functioning at that time) with the entry to the guard station, showing of passports and strict questioning.

When the Iron Curtain guard gates had completely been abandoned, we were able to take the entire family on a day trip to East Germany, only about two hours away.  The differences were striking.  They had crude heating systems, smoke billowing from chimneys; thus, all the homes were drab and sooty.  The cars, i.e., Trabants & Ladas, were pathetic little boxes with smoking exhaust.  When such vehicles ventured onto the autobahn, there were instances where they were run over by much faster cars who didn’t see their tiny dim taillights.  This is what communism/socialism gets you.

 At the end of our Germany tour, we booked a cruise for the entire family, Venice-Dubrovnik-(Yugoslavia)- Athens-Rhodes-Crete-Corfu-Venice.  We were about the only Americans onboard.  The US Marine barracks in Beirut Lebanon had been bombed only a few years ago (1983), and terrorism against Americans was still occurring (Achille Lauro cruise ship hijacking, 1985).  A Lebanese couple approached us while dining and said, “I hope you are not afraid.  Beirut is actually a very nice city.”  We were most impressed with Dubrovnik, which was amazingly beautiful with the same tall fortress walls present for centuries.

 

NETHERLANDS

Summer 1991 we moved to a new assignment in southern Netherlands.  My dental clinic was located at Schinnen, our home was a nice civilian rental home in Hulsburg.  This was a much more relaxing assignment than Germany.  But war broke out in Yugoslavia!  Our Dutch acquaintances asked us, “What will the United States do about this?”  My answer: “This is a purely European conflict.  Why doesn’t Europe take care of this?  The US is always criticized for getting involved and now we are criticized for NOT getting involved!  What do you want?”  Of course, the US did get involved.  America is both expected and criticized as the world’s policeman.  Dawn and I wondered; what will happen to beautiful Dubrovnik?  That conflict raged from 1991 to 1997.

We made a road trip to Prague, Terezin (Nazi concentration camp), and Dresden.  It was my first visit to Prague.  The atmosphere of celebration there was evident.  We stayed at what today would be an Airbnb, an apartment where the occupants stayed elsewhere during our visit.  In Dresden, we stopped at the tourist information office and were treated as if it was still a communist dictatorship.  Instead of being given information on various accommodation choices, they dictated to us where we were to stay and what the fee would be.  Our reaction, “No thanks, that is not how we live.  We are leaving.”  We got back in the car on the autobahn and drove home, arriving after midnight.

Years later, 2016, Dawn and I revisited Dubrovnik and Croatia, renting a car, and driving from Zagreb to Montenegro.  In Dubrovnik we visited two museums of the war (one in the city itself and the other atop the overlooking mountain) and are happy to report that although the city received significant damage, it has been rebuilt to its original magnificent self.  A young server at a restaurant there explained to us how the war had taken away the enjoyment of his teenage years.  Many of the defenders of the city were simply young men who took up arms with little or no military experience.  When we stayed in a B&B at Plitvice, the family told how they fled to Italy for those seven years and came back to find their home destroyed by those who had been their neighbors.  Such reasonable and educated people with yet profound ethnic grievances. 

 

 

NEW YORK

Summer 2001 found us assigned to Fort Drum, New York.  Naturally, we took the opportunity to visit New York City.  Washington, DC, is the most economically and racially polarized city I have experienced.  But New York was different.  We experienced people patiently queued in lines with no one trying to cut in.  We saw young people on buses get up to offer their seat for older people.  When in the subway station, people would notice us looking at our route map and would come over and offer to help us.  Riding the subway, people from very diverse backgrounds would strike up conversations together.   The restaurants were not as expensive as expected.  We took a tour of the World Trade Towers; standing on the roof looking out over the entire city was breath-taking.

We were readying for military retirement at that time.  September 9, Dawn returned from a trip hunting for our future retirement location.  Two days later, I was treating a patient when the word came that an aircraft hit one of the Towers.  Instantly we knew it was not an accident.  Our whole world had changed.  On her trip of just two days prior, Dawn was able to practically run on to any waiting flight with no hesitation or interference. That world was gone.

Not long after, we re-visited New York City with our two children. Remnants of buildings, piles of rubble, memorials with bouquets of flowers, cranes and other construction equipment still sifting through the wreckage.   It was hard to consider the enormity of the consequences.

Back on base at Fort Drum, a few people suggested that I may not be allowed to retire.  As the dental representative, I attended the initial meeting of base command staff to plan the 10^th Mountain Division’s deployment to Afghanistan.  They would be the first major unit to be sent.  The meeting was nothing like Hollywood would envision it.  Instead, the meeting had a business-like atmosphere.  History, geography, culture, climate, previous Soviet experience were all discussed in a very fact-based manner.  There was no ego-based intonation.  Very calm and thorough.  Sequencing of necessary logistic preparations was begun.

Shortly after, we began processing the troops for deployment.  I remember one young soldier telling me, “We understand that we may die on this mission.  Our main hope is that, if this happens, our lives will not be wasted.”  These outwardly ordinary individuals accept a set of solid values which they are willing to die for.  Our service members have more respect, discipline, and commitment than most civilians.  I couldn’t increase their pay or provide better base housing, but I tried to give them the highest quality dental care possible.

 

CIVILIAN TRAVEL

Dawn and I continue to travel to foreign lands and get a sense of what life is like there.  There are good people everywhere with most of the same concerns we have here in America.  Watching people live in the corruption and inefficiency of Third World countries is educational, but not particularly pleasant.  In a sense, we are all neighbors. We want everyone to share in a life with progress and hope for the future.    

A Flashback: Vietnam to Japan, a 1967 R&R adventure

This is not a new article.  I wrote this many years ago, but it was published in my other blog, concerned with boat building.  It is perhaps more appropriate as a travel entry.

Carl Nixon and Wayne at Windy Beach, near VungTau, VN.  This beach was off limits, you had to walk some distance down a hot dusty road to find it.  We never encountered any other military there.  There was a cafe where we could leave our belongings and have lunch and a beer.  The woman who ran it was always honest and fair, as were all the Vietnamese I encountered.  It was our favorite destination.

Isla Archinard near Windy Beach.  If you look closely, you can see a concrete fortification (I am guessing from WWII).  Carl and I decided to swim out to it one day and discovered that there was a strong current present carrying us out to sea from this peninsula.  The swim was much harder than anticipated; you can't slow down because the current will not.

Sunrise on the Mekong River; I could also have included a sunset.  We spent many days on its mile-wide expanses.  Each day we would shift anchorage to a new location to avoid enemy targeting.

Maintenance on the heavily armored Riverine boats.  Russian B40 shaped-charge projectiles could penetrate those round turrets.  Notice below the bar armor 'cage' which was installed to cause the projectiles to explode prematurely before encountering the main armor plate.  These craft, with troops onboard, would enter narrow side canals from the river where they were subject to ambush, slugging it out in the close-quarter confines of those canals with the Viet Cong.

Downtown Vung Tau where many bars were located and enlisted military relaxed when off duty.  Officers frequented the Grand Hotel, nearer to the beach.  After the evening curfew, these streets were patrolled by Vietnamese military with submachine guns.  One evening we spent too much time at an establishment and had to scurry like mice to avoid the patrols and find a hotel.

A South Vietnam patrol boat; no armor, simply an adaptation of a native craft.

Wayne (me) on duty on the ship's bridge wearing my usual duty uniform.  To the left of me is a signal light.  We could send flashing light messages between ships using Morse code.

 A coworker recently learned that I am a Vietnam vet and asked me for information.  That started me thinking about long past events, and I decided to write down one of my most memorable experiences, a trip out of the war zone to Japan.  I have included photos from Vietnam to give some context to our R&R respite from the war zone.  

September 1966, I entered active duty with the US Navy.  After attending basic navigation school, I reported aboard the USS Askari, ARL-30, and was immediately assigned to help load armor plate and other supplies for our mission in Vietnam.  We left San Francisco in early December, stopping in Hawaii and the Philippines along the way, toward our new homeport of VungTau, Vietnam.  Most of 1967 was spent in the Mekong Delta.  I then returned to Vietnam aboard the USS Preston, DD 795, during the summer of 1968.  It was an important point in my life when I was on my own, deciding what was important and who I wanted to be.  No one cared whether hours were spent in a library or a bar; each person chose their own path.  It made for interesting observations and experiences.

When you were stationed “in country” in the combat zone for an extended period you would eventually qualify for “R&R”, rest and relaxation outside Vietnam. A friend, Carl Nixon, and I both qualified for R&R in June ’67 and both chose Japan as our destination. You were given permissive orders for the period.  “Permissive” meant that you were to find your own way from our ship upriver on the Mekong to Saigon to catch a flight and then find your way back upon return.  We got a ride on a boat downriver to the coastal town of VungTau.  As soon as we arrived, we made ourselves scarce until the scheduled flight to Saigon had departed; then we reported in at the airfield.  That gave us an extra day on our own.  At VungTau, we often would walk some distance to an off-limits beach in a rocky cove served by a single café.  There we could eat lunch and play in the waves which were sometimes big enough for body surfing.  Later, we had dinner and a few drinks in town and, in the process, were joined by another Navy man who was headed to Saigon.  With curfew time approaching, the three of us visited a local hotel to get a room for the night.  The entry to the hotel featured a line of young women waiting along the corridor.  Carl and I politely declined companionship for the evening, but the other fellow bought dinner for “his girl” and she spent the night with him.

The next day we took a twin rotor Chinook helicopter to Saigon; it felt like a flying bus. The military had leased an entire hotel with a barracks-type configuration for transient personnel in Saigon.  We didn’t wander far from the hotel that day, saving our funds until we reached Japan. We were anxious to get started and happily boarded a leased aircraft the next morning.  Arriving at Tachikawa AFB near Tokyo, we were given barracks-type beds & lockers.  This would be home base.  We relaxed and took a swim in the base pool.  Carl and I had lost our fellow Navy man, but picked up a crazy Marine on R&R.  Why do I say crazy?  This man had been in Vietnam for several years on back-to-back tours in the region of the North Vietnam border.  Every time his tour of duty was up, he would volunteer to stay longer.  Why would he do this?  Because soldiers don’t fight for their country; they fight for their buddies.  If he went home to the US, in his mind he would be abandoning his “band of brothers”.  At this point his unit had sent him on R&R, and then he was mandatorily being sent back to the States.  They would allow no more extensions, and we could sense why.  He spoke casually about killing the enemy, had done it multiple times, and the enemy was anyone who would harm a US Marine.  It was questionable to us how he would re-adapt to civilian life.

Our Marine wanted to rent a taxi and go to Yokohama (20 miles away) to drink Black Russians at a bar he knew of.  Money meant nothing to him.  We decided to go with him and show him how to use the train system, saving considerable funds.  We found the bar, and drank a few Black Russians, but not enough to keep us from finding our way back.

The next day Carl and I set out again on a train to explore the area.  While on the train (think metro commuter line), I noticed a man reading a newspaper section which had a picture of a person water skiing on the back cover.  We asked where the picture was taken, and, although communication was limited, we were able to ascertain that the water skiing was at Hayama Beach, on the ocean southwest of Tokyo.  Looking at the train schedule, we realized that we could make the last train to Hayama that night.  Arriving at Hayama Beach well after dark, we walked down to the beach and discovered a party for college students was taking place.  We were immediately invited to join the party with the incentive, “We have more beer than we can drink.”  They were very friendly and spoke fluent English. We learned that water skiing was offered in late morning sessions and that a college music festival was taking place for the next few days. A little before midnight we rented a bamboo shack on the beach to sleep in.  Being in the Navy on a regular watch schedule I had developed an internal clock and was able to awaken at an early hour to get us on our way.  We needed to get up early to take the train back to our home base to clean up and get bathing suits and fresh clothes.

We arrived back in time to sign up for water skiing. This consisted of all participants lining up for mandatory exercises; then being transferred by boat to a covered platform moored in the bay.  The ski boat would come by the platform, each time picking up a new participant for a short period of skiing.  Water skiing was apparently a very new sport in Japan.  I watched people struggle to get up and then wobble around for a few laps before collapsing in the water.  This was the ocean, and waves were present, so their difficulty was understandable. Growing up in Nebraska, I had been skiing for 5-6 years using our family boat.  When it was my turn to ski, I quickly kicked off one ski to slalom and was able to perform enough tricks that a photographer was called out to the platform to take pictures of the action.  He had questions for my friend, Carl. The photographer couldn’t speak English, and Carl knew no Japanese, but they discovered that they both were fluent enough in Spanish to discuss water skiing.

Carl was an interesting guy.  Out of high school, he was accepted and enrolled at the US Naval Academy.  After a short time at the Academy, he decided he didn’t like it and requested release. His request was refused until he contacted his Alabama Senator, who was on the Armed Forces Defense committee. He then quickly got his release from the Academy, but it wasn’t a release from military commitment. He was ordered on enlisted duty on our ship, the USS Askari, in Vietnam.  After release from active duty, he eventually moved to Morelia, Mexico, where he graduated from medical school and became a primary care physician in rural Mexico.

After skiing we discovered that a dance would be held that night.  Carl and I went to a local communal bath house to freshen up.  Do you take a shower before stepping into the hot pool or afterwards? We may have done both. That evening we went to the dance. The music was almost exclusively familiar American rock & roll songs.  As we walked in, all the girls were in clusters along the far wall, and the boys were along the near wall to our left.  The dance floor was uncrowded. Adults were at tables toward the rear of the room to our right. We were the only Caucasians present. What do you do in such a situation?  If you are on R&R from Vietnam, you ask a girl to dance.

My attention was drawn to a girl standing on the edge of a group (pretty, relaxed, not engaged in the group chatter), and I approached her with a request for a dance.  After several dances she, Tamea, asked me to meet some of her relatives, who were seated in a booth toward the back of the room.  I learned that Tamea’s extended family rented one floor of the Hayama Beach Hotel each summer for several weeks.  Tamea was a student at Tokyo University.  Later that evening, Tamea and one of her female friends took Carl and me for a ride to show us the area.  We sat in back with a white-gloved chauffeur driving our dark limousine-type car and drove to a lookout point for a view of the surrounding bay area illuminated by thousands of lights along the shore.  After such hospitality, Carl and I requested that we treat the girls (okay, young women) to dinner the following day.

The next day we spent the afternoon listening to the music festival and talking with Tamea and her friend; one subject was explaining the lyrics and their context for American songs.  That evening we had reservations for dinner in a private room at the hotel.  As an E-4 in Vietnam, I was paid maybe $300 per month, but the exchange rate was 360 yen to the dollar, and we were on vacation.  We wanted to show our appreciation.  However, toward the end of the dinner, Tamea’s brother walked into the room.  Carl and I knew that was a 'bad' sign.  Sure enough, they would not let us pay for dinner!  Look, we are enlisted US warmongers from Vietnam!  Why are you treating us so nice?

I had agreed to shop for some speakers for a friend’s stereo system back on the ship in Vietnam before we went home (to Askari).  The week ended quickly.  Before leaving, I got Tamea’s address and learned that her father’s name was Dodan Kuruma. He was President of the Tokyo Buddhist Federation.  They lived in a suburb of Tokyo (Toshima-ku).  Her father had traveled extensively, to the US and Europe as well as throughout Asia, as a part of his responsibilities.

Tamea and I exchanged several letters during the next four months.  When I was notified of the November end date of my Vietnam duty and realized that I would be passing through Japan on my way to the States, I let her know, and she invited me to visit at their home in Tokyo.  Carl Nixon was given the same return date; we would be flying back together.  Again, we were routed to VungTau, Saigon, and on to Tachikawa AFB, where we would lay over for a few days awaiting our flight to Travis AFB, California.

As soon as we arrived at Tachikawa, Carl and I headed for a train to Tokyo.  Another previous shipmate, Steven Quade, asked to be included.  Tamea had met Carl, but I was hesitant to impose on the Kuruma family with three of us.  Quade was from the south side of Chicago (“the baddest part of town” according to Jim Croce’s song).  He didn’t have college aspirations like Carl or me, but he was a fairly polite and decent guy so we couldn’t refuse.  We had the commuter train directions figured out, and the three of us had little trouble making train transfers to arrive in Toshima-ku.

Stepping out on the street of this busy neighborhood, we wandered for a while before giving up on finding Tamea’s home.  We enlisted the aid of the local police precinct station.  A helpful policeman escorted us to the Kuruma home.  No wonder we couldn’t recognize the home!  OMG!  It wasn’t a house; it was a compound encompassing an entire (small) city block.  A tall, black, wrought-iron fence enclosed the entire block.  The entry gates were closed; behind that were trees, bushes, a garden, and the home.  The policeman was able to rouse one of the house staff to open the gate and notify the family of our arrival.

They quickly invited us into their home, more family members arrived, and we enjoyed a warm welcome.  We were invited to stay for dinner.  The dinner table was only about one foot above the floor, but we discovered that the tablecloth disguised a foot well built into the floor under the table.  We tried our best to use chopsticks and be polite guests, but I am sure we transgressed some unfamiliar Japanese custom.  They offered us the option of forks to use and were forgiving of any shortcomings.  After dinner, various conversations sprang up around the table, lubricated by ample servings of wine and sake.  When we said our good-byes for the evening, Tamea’s brother escorted us to the train station to ensure that the sake’s influence didn’t mislead us.  We were invited to return the next day.

Upon arrival the following morning we were introduced to Tamea’s older sister, Masayo. Wow! Tamea was a very pretty young woman, but her older (and taller) sister, Masayo, would have been appropriate on a magazine cover.  They offered to show us downtown Tokyo.  We took a smaller vehicle, Masayo (driving) and Tamea in the front seat, and us three sailors in back.  It was amusing to watch these two gorgeous women maneuver their way through heavy traffic.  With the car windows open, they would smile and wave out the window, and the nearby cars would move aside to let them pass.

We parked in front of the Imperial Palace and walked the area, peering through the surrounding fence at the extensive landscaped gardens.  Tamea’s father, Dodan, met us at Chinzanso restaurant for lunch.  This is an internationally known eatery where we were served, outdoors in a garden, by a chef preparing our meals at our table.  Later we went to a playground/park with adult-sized swings, slides, and such items and walked, talked, and played on the equipment.  Tamea and I went down the slide together (my arms around her).  For dinner, we rode an elevator to the top of a skyscraper in downtown Tokyo to the Suehiro restaurant.  The entire restaurant rotates as you dine so that you enjoy a 360-degree skyline.  Another famous eatery: no, we were not allowed to pay for ANYthing.

The following day, Carl, Steven, and I boarded our non-stop flight to Travis AFB, near Sacramento.  I passed through Tachikawa again in September 1968, coming home from my second tour in Vietnam, but was only there for a few hours.   I continued corresponding periodically with Tamea for about 1-1 ½ years afterwards until I mentioned in a letter that I had a girlfriend.  Carl and I kept in contact until he graduated from medical school.  I always considered Tamea as a “pen pal”.  She was obviously very attractive, educated, and congenial.  But there was a huge economic, cultural and geographic separation to consider, and I was only a college student financially on my own.

I have never forgotten my visits to Japan because what we experienced was so exceptional.  It seems like a dream with events bigger than life.  What motivated this wealthy, high class family from a vastly different culture to treat us with such openness and generosity?  Is this the Buddhist influence?  Carl and I were junior enlisted sailors from a war zone; nothing notable about us.  Wouldn’t most people have brushed us aside?  How did this all happen?

A peek at the underwater world of Sri Lanka and Maldives Islands

 Why do we enjoy snorkeling so much?  These photographs should explain that.  You are floating, weightless, in a different world.  The scenery is amazing. Good exercise. Equipment needed: a snorkel, a mask, swim fins (optional), We usually rent fins because good ones are too long to fit in a suitcase.  We also use a rash guard instead of sunscreen ointments (stop pollution of our seas).

Technique:  My snorkel is 40+ years old. a simple tube with a bend and a mouthpiece; fancier snorkels (valves or full-face) can create breathing resistance or recycled air with gradual hypoxia.  You want the snorkel to fill with sea water to reduce buoyancy, allowing deeper dives.  The mask should have two separate lenses for a more close-fitting mask with less retained air and a better wide-angle view.  Also, a silicon rubber nose piece, allowing you to pinch and equalize ear pressure.

Our rash guards eliminate sunburn but add buoyancy.  Mixed feelings: the buoyancy keeps pulling me back to the surface; shortens dives but is a reassuring lift when it is time to surface.  Fins increase mobility and enhance maneuvering in swirling waters.  A baseball cap worn backwards and positioned under your mask strap will protect your head and neck from sunburn.  A snug-fitting T-shirt might be an option to the rash guard with less buoyancy. 

Breathing:  Deep breath, then dive.  Do not release air until you are back on the surface, then transfer air from lungs to cheeks, remove your tongue from the snorkel mouthpiece and blow outward forcefully to completely expel water from the snorkel. Repeat deep breath.  Even if you do not dive, use this technique.  Otherwise, you may take unexpected water into the snorkel (waves) without the reserve breath to expel it.   

I have omitted any panoramic views; hard to capture and not as meaningful unless you experienced the surroundings.  Things like a large school of fish passing by at some distance, or the submerged view of waves crashing on boulders, or small fish hiding in an extensive coral formation. 

The coral shown here is far less healthy than we have seen at other locations such as Bocas del Toro (Panama}, Roatan, Belize, Galapagos, or Tuamotus (near Tahiti).  I am wondering whether the tsunami had anything to do with the massive die off.   

Retrospection: An amazing Trip

 

Wow!  Tomorrow, we board our first flight on our homeward journey. Flying times, 8 1/2 hours to São Paulo (two-night stop), then 10 hours to Atlanta, and finally 3 1/2 to Denver.  We have so many memories, more of the people and cultures encountered than the scenery; our understanding of our world has been permanently affected.  One example: we were eating lunch at a restaurant at CapePoint, near the southern most point of Africa. Two men from Germany were at the adjacent table, and we started a conversation. Initially, we spoke of South Africa, but we could all see that the issues here also applied to what is happening in Germany and the USA.  This populism, being ruled by the uninformed majority expecting 'free stuff', is creating a scary world.  Uninformed citizens voting in a powerful government to 'take care' of them breeds corruption.  The government that can do everything for you effectively controls you and all citizens.  Freedom is a high price to pay. We all sensed that despite our different backgrounds.

Would we change our trip in retrospect?  No. Not everything was as expected, but it was all worthwhile. A lot of coordination was needed to pull off this trip.  The problems encountered were initially scary, but it all worked out. One of our shuttle contractors, for the move from Kandy to Hikkaduwa, dropped out at the last moment but I was able to replace them with an alternate contractor quickly.  Leaving Sri Lanka, we were pulled out of line because Dawn had only been granted a two-day visa (a mistake?), and we had been in the country for two weeks.  The fine would be 350 Euros; but with explanation, the fine was dropped.  

Our car rental at Cape Town developed a slow tire leak. Then the A/C failed, and the electronics went wacko.  We were stuck at a parking lot at the Cape of Good Hope with a car that would not start and a cellphone that was out of range for a signal.  I changed the tire (full size spare), got the car started, and drove all the way back to the Cape Town airport, almost two hours, to exchange vehicles.  We lost time that we had hoped to use on hiking the area.

Sao Paulo has turned out to be a disappointment, although we were somewhat forewarned.  I talked to a person who grew up in that area who told us the city of 15 million was rather gritty.  The hotel was very basic, even though rated as one of the better stays.  Most of the staff of this major airport hotel did not speak English.  The neighborhood was semi-industrial.  Reviews of other area hotels indicated that this was not unusual.

Our previous trip, to Sardinia, had included a delayed flight, cancelled flight, lost luggage, bad weather, cancelled car rental, taxi transportation issues, unexpected layover in Amsterdam, wrong information on a ferry service.... out worst trip ever.  On this trip everything went as planned.  When you consider the length and complexity of plans, this has been a wonderful trip.

South Africa, Cape Town and a Safari

We flew Emirates business class from Sri Lanka to Dubai (overnight stop) and then Cape Town.  That is the most luxurious flying we have done.  The flight included a driver and Mercedes vehicle which met us at the Cape Town airport upon landing and drove us to our boutique hotel.

  Front yard of our boutique hotel.  The owners are originally from Switzerland.  (We prefer Switzerland.)  We had breakfast outdoors in this area every morning.

In South Africa, we stayed at four different locations.  First, we stayed at boutique hotel (converted residence) near Cape Town university. This put us near Cape Town itself but in a semi-residential atmosphere. Uber rides were close at hand and cheap. We visited Robben Island and the harbor area first. Next, we took the gondola to the top of Table Mountain. Finally, we went to the botanical garden on the east base slopes of Table Mountain.

Looking south from our hotel neighborhood.  When clouds are on Table Mountain, that is referred to as the 'tablecloth'.

Looking toward Cape Town from Table Mountain; there are cracks in that plateau.

Robben Island is thought-provoking: apartheid’s widespread effects, the severe sentences, the inhumane conditions of confinement.  I took no pictures because I found it hard to capture any visual sense of this in the low gray buildings and featureless island contours.  Even the beaches were shallow and ugly with extensive beds of floating kelp. Our tour guide was a previous inmate; his stories and willingness to answer all questions made the visit worthwhile.  The Cape Town harbor front is large and well-maintained with excellent restaurants and shopping malls.

Dawn composing a photo from the Table Mountain flattop peak.  

Plan your visit to Table Mountain carefully.  The crowds and resulting waiting times can be a significant delay to tour plans.  We were fortunate, a wait of only an hour.  At the top, the views are excellent, and a walking path accesses the entire rim of the ‘table’.  On a hot day, the peak was slightly cooler with breeze, making it a pleasant visit, although the sun was intense. January is mid-summer.

You can see how busy the Cape Town harbor area is.  The large buildings in the background constitute a large shopping mall.  Restaurants are closer to where we are standing.  Unique African merchandise fills one large store. 

That's me, the hat, glasses, and long-sleeve shirt (plus sunscreen) are for sun protection, not style.

   

Looking down on Cape Town harbor from the edge of the Table Mountain plateau.                                                                                               

The gondola to Table Mountain.  As you can see, trekking to the top is a poor option.
                                                                                             

Welcome shade when visiting the National botanical park.
                                                                                             

This struck me as a beautiful scene.  Botanical gardens are peaceful refuges from the hustle and noise outside.  A walk in a forest is always superior to civilization's carnival rides.                                                                                                                       

Our botanical garden visit was also done on a hot day. Beautiful surroundings and sufficient shade to provide relief from direct sun. We had lunch at the garden restaurant. Unlike the ginger ale served in the U.S., you can enjoy real ginger beer in this area.  Very refreshing on a hot day without the alcohol. During our entire visit to South Africa, we were able to pay for everything with credit cards. No local currency required.

From Cape Town, we flew to Port Elizabeth where a waiting staff member drove us to our safari site in the bushveld, an hour northeast.  The Safari Lodge was authentic with its canvas walls, outdoor showers, and wildlife watering hole only about forty feet from our front deck.  One morning Dawn screamed when she encountered a mouse in the bathroom.  We were kept very busy with game drives, morning and late afternoon, in our open Toyota Land Cruiser vehicles.  As soon as we arrived, before even being shown our room, we set out on our first game drive.

Our two room 'hut' at the safari lodge. The shower was outdoors.

    Real rhinos, elephants, giraffes, lions, cheetahs, warthogs, Cape buffalo, and many other creatures.  I wanted to see a hippopotamus but learned that they are largely nocturnal, spending days submerged in a pond with only their snout protruding.  Then, at night, they come out to feed.  We watched three lions stalking some warthogs.  In the final rush, the warthogs escaped.... they were amazingly fast with their short little legs (but they were running for their lives).

I would like to get a better photo of a warthog.  We saw them frequently, but they would head for cover when they saw us. Before this area became a game reserve, people used to hunt the warthogs, and they have developed an aversion to human presence.  We also saw jackals, another skittish animal.  I didn't have time to really focus before they were gone. 

Moma and her baby.  If you notice the bird perched on her back, that is part of an early warning system.  When the bird makes a fuss, mama rhino gets defensive.  

The giraffes are beautiful, bigger than I imagined, and one of our guides said that they are very smart.  Humans don't seem to disturb them at all.  

This is the main eating hall.  On the left we see someone coming from the kitchen.  To the right is an open area where tables are set.  As you can see, more authentically rustic than modern.

The well-manicured and scenic valley of Franschoek.  The surrounding mountains are dramatically steep and jagged.

Back at Cape Town, we rented a vehicle and drove to Franschoek in the center of wine country.  The place is beautiful, upscale, and an exception to the ever-present poverty obvious in many areas of South Africa.  The weather was perfect during our visit.  Touristy but not crowded; many fine shops and restaurants; it reminded me of Aspen with its surrounding steep mountains.

The Franschoek valley is full of vineyards, nurtured by water from the surrounding mountains.

 

A panorama of the entire Franschoek valley with its many vineyards.  Downtown was easy walking distance with interesting high-end shops (arts and crafts) and great restaurants.  Locals referred to it as "living in a bubble" because it was so much nicer than every other area. 

Next, we drove to Constantia where we stayed in our most outstanding accommodation. It had previously been an estate with extensive well-manicured grounds and an opulent central mansion.  Of course, it has a pool with pool house, pond & stream, circular cobblestone driveway with a central fountain, 15-foot-high ceilings, huge bedrooms and baths.  Security was high with a gate code needed, stone walls & electrified fences. The estate backs up to the east border of Table Mountain NP.  Hiking paths and a cafe just for hikers were just outside the rear gate.

On the patio of the main house, looking down toward the pool area with the pool guesthouse on the left.  It was more like living in a mansion than any hotel we have encountered.

Our room on the second story was huge; the bathroom was as big as a small hotel room.  They only had a few rooms.  Their reservations are non-refundable and need to be made far in advance. 

From this location we were able to drive to a penguin colony at Betty's Beach, 100 km. to the southeast and also explore the Cape of Good Hope peninsula.  We had an exciting few moment at the Cape of Good Hope when we had to deal with a flat tire, failing electronics (beeping noise and could not lock or start the car), and were out of range of any cell phone signal.  Fortunately, I was able to get the tire changed, the Mitsubishi vehicle eventually started, and we drove directly to the airport to exchange it for a different (Hundai) SUV.

Looking north from Cape Point, near the Cape of Good Hope.  We would have captured more scenery except for the mechanical troubles with our rental car.  Almost a two-hour trip back to the airport to get a different vehicle.

The drive to Betty's Beach.  There was one stretch of sandy beach along our route, but mainly the road was carved into a steep mountainside.

The penguin colony is much bigger than what is shown.  The drive to Betty's beach is scenic.  It reminded me of the California coast between San Luis Obispo and Monterey with tall mountains rising abruptly from the shoreline.  Recent floods had washed out parts of the roadway causing construction delays.

On our last day in South Africa, we elected to just relax near the pool on our estate stay.  The following day we had to turn in our rental, take an 8 1/2 flight to Sao Paulo, and check in at our next stop on our way home, after eight weeks of travel.  Sao Paulo was only a brief stop to breakup what would otherwise be a sixteen-hour nonstop flight to the U.S. east coast.  The one full day we had in Brazil was cloudy and rainy, and our hotel was unexceptional.  It made us eager to get home, although it would be a long day (23 hours) to get there.    

Waterbuck: a common deer-like animal. These are drinking from a waterhole near our dining hall at the camp.

Zebra:  There are two different types, one found more in the lowlands and the other up higher.  The Amakhala reserve varies about 3000 feet between its highest and lowest areas.

Impala:  common in the open plains' areas.

Rhinoceros:  No, he is not stuck, he just likes the cool mud.

Late afternoon and this male lion was out for a walk.  The females do almost all the hunting.  Leopards were re-introduced to this area, but the lions killed all of them.  We were advised to stay sitting and quiet when near the lions; otherwise, they may view you as prey and attack.

Cape Buffalo:  This is entirely different than a water buffalo.  These have not been tamed and actually have a very vicious reputation.  It is said that if you shoot one, you better kill it or else it will kill you.

Gemsbok:  Very impressive horns.

Giraffe:  Wow are these tall!  The trees in this reserve are the ideal height for grazing.  Giraffes eat a huge amount.  They are healthy and reproducing well in this area.

Cheeta:  Relaxing in the grass with two fellow cheetahs until it is time to hunt again.  You probably know that they are considered the fastest land animals.

Blesbok:  another of the plains herd animals.  You often see several species together for mutual lookout and protection.

Black Wildebeest, also called a Gnu.  Not one of the prettier animals.