Travels with Wgrabow

Self-planned trips to individualized destinations to help understand the history and current status of activities, attractions and daily life there.

Wednesday, March 28, 2018

Kaikoura to Christchurch, NZ

The east coast of New Zealand near Kaikoura reminds me of the California coast between San Luis Obispo and Monterey; tall coastal headlands descending abruptly into a rocky but beautiful ocean shoreline.  However, 1 1/2 years ago a tremendous earthquake shook the area, raising the ocean floor and causing many tons of rock and soil to slide (or "slip"- the local term) crashing down to cover the coastal rail line and highway.  Suddenly the town of Kaikoura and surrounding areas were cut off from all normal transport.  Supplies were brought in by helicopter and ship, and tourists were taken out in similar fashion.  Today repairs to the coastal roads are still in process.

The coast near Kaikoura.  In places the highway was squeezed between the steep hillsides and the ocean.  When the earthquake happened in Nov. '16, the coastal highway was obliterated in places.

We stopped in a deserted park along the road for a picnic lunch.

When down swoops a helicopter very close to us; he lowered a probe into the water, presumably for water testing.  Then he up and flew off.

The town of Kaikoura is still recovering; lack of tourist traffic for almost a year caused accommodations and restaurants to close.  The crayfish and abalone habitat was destroyed (the seabed was raised by about 5 meters), affecting fisherman.  Aftershocks, and the threat of further major tremors remain. This is the coast we traveled yesterday. So much evidence of the "slips" and damage to be seen.  Many construction delays and stops for one-way traffic. But we met some interesting people.  Our hotel host, a native Australian, wanted to discuss US politics with us and seemed more knowledgeable of the subject than most Americans.  We met another couple, Ian and Gina, when we pulled off at a quiet park; Ian, a local hunter, wanted to understand US gun laws and compare the situation with NZ laws.  Such encounters make travel all the more rewarding.

At the botanic garden, Dawn next to a very large tree.  The garden is surrounded by a stream where kayaks, canoes, and punts pass by.

Our B&B in Christchurch was my worst accommodation choice.  Not that it was terrible; breakfast and the location were good, but the decor was very dark; the bathroom was small; and the bed was too soft.  While at Christchurch (a short stay) we went for a walk in their excellent Botanic Garden.  We love botanic gardens; so quiet, peaceful, beautiful,and with nice walking trails.  Christchurch suffered a major earthquake seven years ago and has not recovered.  It seems that buildings had been built on ground that soil surveys had noted were unstable.  All those buildings fell down and will not be rebuilt.  We also spent a day visiting Akaroa on Banks peninsula east of town. The area was created by a large, ancient volcanic cone of which one side collapsed creating a large bay surrounded by tall steep hillsides.  Very pretty.

It had rained in the morning, but was clearing when we arrived, leaving white, fluffy clouds covering the crests of the hills.  We ate lunch outside at a cafe in Akaroa overlooking the bay.  The village is a popular tourist spot. 


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