Normandy, France

Leaving Paris in our rental car was one intersection at a time, including security road blocks, road repairs, and noon-time traffic. Then it was open road except for toll booths; veer to the right to use the booths that accept credit cards.  Our destination is a farmhouse outside a village south of Bayeaux.  Past a one-lane bridge, the farmhouse is 500+ years old; stone walls two feet thick, doorways less than six feet tall, ancient & massive beamed ceilings, but all restored using modern and beautiful finishes.  The farmhouse had been vacant since the French Revolution (look that date up) prior to this renovation. An engaging and educated little French lady serves a wonderful breakfast with homemade croissants & breads, goat cheese, fruit, and eggs.  The pasture holds three horses and a donkey. Her dog, Charlie, came out to greet us while the cat hid outside.  In any organized tour, you could never enjoy such a personalized experience; she only has two rooms to rent.

Our B&B, a ancient farmhouse brought up to modern standards and located on 34 acres.

Our bedroom.  Absolutely gorgeous; renovated after 200 years of neglect.

The cathedral at Bayeau, France.  Although Bayeau is located directly inland from the D-Day beaches, it received only minor damage in the conflict.

Bayeau is a scenic town, well-located to explore the Normandy area, and small enough that you can explore its streets on foot.

Dawn's father crossed this beach at about noon on D-Day, 75 years ago as the driver of a half-track vehicle.  He participated in the entire march across Europe; major battles, mass graves, opening of concentration camps, until meeting up with the Russians.  It was 40+ years before he spoke about it and then only small snippets of what he experienced.

The cliffs of Pointe du Hoc where American Rangers climbed up ropes, under murderous German fire, to disable the large artillery located there.

Breakfast was shared with a couple from Germany.  We had a interesting discussion including WWII,  the re-unification of Germany, and modern day Europe. Experiences like this will never be forgotten.  Off to visit the D-Day beaches; tomorrow is the 75th anniversary of VE (victory in Europe) day.  To see Omaha Beach, look for signs for the American Military Cemetery.  The cemetery is located directly adjacent to the beach.  Ocean waves were lapping at the foot of cliffs in what is now a peaceful view of the ocean and farmers' fields.  Beautiful, well done, and well maintained; if you even pause to reflect, it will bring tears to your eyes.

On D-Day, this wide-open beach offered no protection for the American amphibious advance resulting in massive casualties.

I brought back no pictures of the American Cemetery.  It had the feel of a holy place, a place of personal reflection and appreciation; not a place for tourist "trophy" photographs.  More than 9,300 graves are located here; each one representing a young life cut short.

Today you can find land sailers enjoying wide Omaha beach.  This is not a new sport; it has been enjoyed for over 100 years.

We stopped at an excellent museum in Bayeaux which showed archival coverage of the 1944 offensive; I was left with an increased appreciation of the horrendous violence of this conflict.  Human bodies were like moths before a flame; snuffed out by the thousands.  A better museum is located at Utah Beach.  Along this Normandy coast, various exhibits detail the invasion in a complete and balanced manner.  Many of the visitors are French, but the Germans come here also.  Visiting Pointe du Hoc completed our visit.

Looking down the barrel of a German defensive artillery piece overlooking the beaches.

Everyone said, "You must visit Mont St. Michel." and so we did.  It is beautiful; it is unique; it is a tourist trap.  If I had it over, I would not have gone there.  A long drive to be caught up in an endless crowd where every scene was dominated by surrounding bodies.

A virtual island at high tide connected to the mainland by a causeway.