Hiking Madeira mountains
Dawn and I enjoy hiking; I like climbing upward, and she likes level ground. Here in Madeira are the "levadas" used to conserve and utilize all water resources, but also very popular with the tourists. Wherever a road crosses a levada, you will find a parking lot full of vehicles left by people out hiking. For the longer walks, people hire taxis to drop them off at one end of a hike and pick them up at the other end.
We (really me) have climbed two of the tallest mountains here. Today, we (Dawn does what is comfortable and I race ahead to the top) did Pico Ruivo; just over 6100 feet. I only had to walk the last two miles from a parking lot, with about 1500 feet vertical. Passed many German speakers; some French, a few Brits; Eastern Europeans, but no Americans. We talked to one very friendly couple from Lithuania. Driving on the way here it was cool and cloudy; Dawn was worried that it might be a bad day for hiking, but as our vehicle climbed higher, we broke through the clouds to a beautiful sunny day. The mountain tops were surrounded below by a seemingly endless ocean of clouds. Absolutely beautiful sight! We had experienced this once before, when we were living in Oregon: only those peaks that were above approximately 4500 feet stood above the sea of clouds, breaking like waves on the higher mountain slopes.
The trail to Pico Ruivo, about two miles long with a 1500' altitude gain. Notice the endless layer of clouds at about 4000-4500' altitude. it was 53 degrees just below the clouds and 68 degrees above (with intense sunshine).
Looking west from Pico Ruivo. The western plateau can be seen in the distance.
The very top of Pico Ruivo. Some tourists climb in groups and bring a picnic lunch. You can see the peak of Pico Arieiro on the right side with its radar dome.
The village of Porto da Cruz on the northeast coast of Madeira.
Tomorrow will be our last full day here; ten days total and about what I would recommend. We have ignored the downtown Funchal attractions; skipped a visit to the nearby island of Porto Santo; and failed to explore the western island coasts. Dawn asked if I thought we would ever return: "NO" was my answer based on our previous habits, but it could be quite enjoyable. I had expected that we might spend a few days just relaxing at the hotel; that has not happened, but our daily excursions have only been about five hours each, a relaxed schedule.
Encountered while hiking a levada, this little bird was unafraid and would eat seeds out of your hand.
Last night was a relaxed evening at the restaurant; our server, Fabricio, stopped at our table to talk. He told us of Madeiran history, culture, and his family. One interesting story was of his grandparents. His grandfather met his future wife one day before their marriage. At that time, Portugal was very poor and ruled by a dictator. His grandfather at that time was 35 y.o. and told a fellow fisherman that he was ready to get married. The fisherman went home and asked his daughters (he had ten children) if any of them were interested in marriage. The twenty-year-old was eager to get out of their small house and volunteered. That afternoon she met her future husband for the first time, and they agreed on a wedding time for the following day. They enjoyed a long and happy marriage of 51 years and produced three children.
We (really me) have climbed two of the tallest mountains here. Today, we (Dawn does what is comfortable and I race ahead to the top) did Pico Ruivo; just over 6100 feet. I only had to walk the last two miles from a parking lot, with about 1500 feet vertical. Passed many German speakers; some French, a few Brits; Eastern Europeans, but no Americans. We talked to one very friendly couple from Lithuania. Driving on the way here it was cool and cloudy; Dawn was worried that it might be a bad day for hiking, but as our vehicle climbed higher, we broke through the clouds to a beautiful sunny day. The mountain tops were surrounded below by a seemingly endless ocean of clouds. Absolutely beautiful sight! We had experienced this once before, when we were living in Oregon: only those peaks that were above approximately 4500 feet stood above the sea of clouds, breaking like waves on the higher mountain slopes.
Tomorrow will be our last full day here; ten days total and about what I would recommend. We have ignored the downtown Funchal attractions; skipped a visit to the nearby island of Porto Santo; and failed to explore the western island coasts. Dawn asked if I thought we would ever return: "NO" was my answer based on our previous habits, but it could be quite enjoyable. I had expected that we might spend a few days just relaxing at the hotel; that has not happened, but our daily excursions have only been about five hours each, a relaxed schedule.
Last night was a relaxed evening at the restaurant; our server, Fabricio, stopped at our table to talk. He told us of Madeiran history, culture, and his family. One interesting story was of his grandparents. His grandfather met his future wife one day before their marriage. At that time, Portugal was very poor and ruled by a dictator. His grandfather at that time was 35 y.o. and told a fellow fisherman that he was ready to get married. The fisherman went home and asked his daughters (he had ten children) if any of them were interested in marriage. The twenty-year-old was eager to get out of their small house and volunteered. That afternoon she met her future husband for the first time, and they agreed on a wedding time for the following day. They enjoyed a long and happy marriage of 51 years and produced three children.
posted by Wayne Grabow | 11:01 AM
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