Tuesday, September 19, 2017

Lake Maggiore, Italy

On the way to Lake Maggiore we topped off the fuel tank on our Mercedes: about 10 gallons of diesel, costing about $72.  The car is very fuel efficient and has plenty of power, perfect for our trip.  Our GPS unit (from Hertz) is a godsend; occasionally wrong but routinely provides accurate guidance. In traffic around the lakes we average about 25 mph due to the narrow roads and congested traffic. We stopped at the town of Stresa and took a cable car to the top of Monte Mottarone (about 4000' above the lake surface) for a distant view of the lake and surrounding area. We had lunch on the harbor front promenade and met an interesting couple from Virginia who were in Europe to take delivery of their new Mercedes E43.
 Lake Maggiore as seen from Monte Mottarone with the lakeside town of Verbania on the left side.

View from the window of our B&B.  We slept with the window open and could hear the gentle lapping of waves at the end of our cobblestone dock.

We arrived in Cannobio and had to park our car and walk to the B&B, even asking directions, because that last distance was through a pedestrian only area. Our B&B has a fantastic location right on the water at the end of the promenade. After unpacking, we walked the narrow streets of the old city, but could see that modernization is taking place behind medieval walls.  We ended up eating dinner at 8pm in an outdoor setting on the harbor and had a nice talk with a Swiss couple at an adjoining table.


The promenade at Cannobio; most of the restaurants are found along the harbor. Our B&B was located at the south end of the promenade.

Our B&B; our room was the lower level with the bedding sticking out the window.  Inside, it was a very modern, well-decorated room.

That is a road through a village, not a driveway, and note that the vehicle is a compact Suzuki.  The switchback turns were so tight that many vehicles were forced to stop and back up before completing the turn.
Hard to tell a road from a driveway in this steep valley.


A mountain village close to the Swiss border.  I wonder what caused people to congregate in a place with such difficult access.

As well as walking the town, we drove up a narrow road into an isolated steep valley, Valle Cannobina, to view villages where the changes have been minimal; layered natural stone roofs and some dry-laid stone walls.  I even saw a roof where the moisture had been dripping off for so many years (centuries?) that stalactites were forming at the roof edge and, on the stone below, lime formations were building up. The driving was exciting: single lanes and 180-degree corners.

Orrido Sant' Anna- the chapel of Saint Anna located at the bridge over the chasm of the Cannobino Torrente (river).

Thus far, we have stayed only in B&Bs, not a conscious decision on my part.  I use a set of criteria to filter the choices (reviewer comments being very important), and it seems that B&Bs are often more highly appreciated. With only 3-6 rooms you tend to get personal service, and less chance of bed bugs. Disturbing that the places we have stayed in in Europe have been cleaner, better, and cheaper than what we can find in Washington, DC.

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