Wow! Flores was a dramatic sight from first view as we landed at Santa Cruz das Flores on the east coast of the island. A small island rising steeply from the ocean; about 8 by 11 miles rising to about 3000' centered around several volcanic caldera. A small population of approximately 4000. Santa Cruz is the largest population center, but still just a village. Tourists mainly from Europe; mainly younger active types enjoying hiking and climbing. We rented a little Renault Twingo, a 5-speed manual, but we mainly use only the lower three gears due to the steep and twisting roads. However, very little traffic.
You can see how steep this island is, as we chug up the slopes in our little Twingo headed for the west coast of the island. There are more cows, sheep, & goats than people. Corvo island can be seen in the upper left hand corner.
A better view of the island of Corvo and the steep ruggedness of Flores.
A patchwork of fields on the available arable lands. A large part of the island, especially to the north and west, is a designated natural park.
A severe wind storm (90mph winds) came through eight days before our arrival, blowing down many trees on the forested high plateau. But cleanup has been quick.
The southern crest of Flores has less forest; more open windswept shrubbery.
Descending to the west coast, we passed the village of Fajazinna; later we had lunch there at the only restaurant. Another visitor told us there are only eight restaurants (with limited hours) on the island, which I think is about right.
This cottage is our accommodation. One room plus a small bathroom in one corner. The walls are two feet thick; a crude kitchen along one wall; no closets; very little hot water or room heat. It felt like we were camping indoors. But they had a nice central dining facility. WiFi in the reception building. We are living in the "reborn" village of Cuada near Faja Grande. The original inhabitants emigrated, leaving approx. twenty stone cottages which have been updated to where each is now an accommodation for a few tourists.
Absolutely beautiful! About one mile from our cottage at Cuada up a rugged but well-marked trail. This is Poco da Ribeira do Ferreiro. You can see the dense clouds at higher altitude which bring rain to the volcanic basin and feed the multiple waterfalls. If you enlarge this photo, you can see people rappelling down the left hand waterfall (look for a yellow dot about half way down the falls).
A telephoto shot makes the rappelling figures more obvious. These falls are hundreds of feet tall.
To the west, we see the ocean, and to the east are cliffs hundreds of feet tall where multiple waterfalls cascade from the central volcanic remains of several caldera. The island is near the gulf stream and has a mild year around climate; temperatures in the 60's to low 70's. The vegetation is lush; could be mistaken for tropical jungle. We are struck by how clean and neat everything is. Workers are out in the morning cleaning the road shoulders of leaves and mud after rains.
I tried climbing up the canyon to the base of Ribeira Grande but found it too dangerous; perhaps if I were equipped to wade at certain points I could have been more successful.
Poco da Ribeira do Ferreiro with better weather. You can see about a dozen waterfalls in total along this cliff side.
With such a small population, and still somewhat undiscovered by mainstream tourists, there are relatively few hotels, restaurants, or even stores. Last night we had dinner at a local home in Faja Grande. The owner put out a sign of what was being prepared for dinner (cod, potatoes, veggies) and we and one other couple signed up for dinner (plus wine & apple cake). Tonight we bought dinner near the south end of the island at a "Super Mercato" a small grocery: bread, meat, cheese, and wine. What restaurants are available don't open until 7 or 8 pm; later than what we prefer.
Ponta Delgada on the north end of the island, close to Corvo. We also had a meal at the only restaurant in this village. The food was simple but delicious.
The northeast coast of Flores with Corvo on the horizon.
Gasoline is currently rationed here; no more than 15 liters can be purchased per day. Thus, "filling the tank" can take a few days. I doubt we will drive that much. Immediately after arriving, we hiked to the foot of a tall cliff where multiple waterfalls cascaded to form a small lake and stream. A group of climbers were rappelling in sections down the face of one waterfall. The small volcanic island of Corvo is nearby, readily visible just a few miles north. A ferry is available for groups so six or more to visit Corvo, weather permitting.
What a beautiful and unspoiled destination this has been!
To the west, we see the ocean, and to the east are cliffs hundreds of feet tall where multiple waterfalls cascade from the central volcanic remains of several caldera. The island is near the gulf stream and has a mild year around climate; temperatures in the 60's to low 70's. The vegetation is lush; could be mistaken for tropical jungle. We are struck by how clean and neat everything is. Workers are out in the morning cleaning the road shoulders of leaves and mud after rains.
I tried climbing up the canyon to the base of Ribeira Grande but found it too dangerous; perhaps if I were equipped to wade at certain points I could have been more successful.
With such a small population, and still somewhat undiscovered by mainstream tourists, there are relatively few hotels, restaurants, or even stores. Last night we had dinner at a local home in Faja Grande. The owner put out a sign of what was being prepared for dinner (cod, potatoes, veggies) and we and one other couple signed up for dinner (plus wine & apple cake). Tonight we bought dinner near the south end of the island at a "Super Mercato" a small grocery: bread, meat, cheese, and wine. What restaurants are available don't open until 7 or 8 pm; later than what we prefer.
Gasoline is currently rationed here; no more than 15 liters can be purchased per day. Thus, "filling the tank" can take a few days. I doubt we will drive that much. Immediately after arriving, we hiked to the foot of a tall cliff where multiple waterfalls cascaded to form a small lake and stream. A group of climbers were rappelling in sections down the face of one waterfall. The small volcanic island of Corvo is nearby, readily visible just a few miles north. A ferry is available for groups so six or more to visit Corvo, weather permitting.
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