Thursday, October 23, 2025

Yvoire & Evian, France, and Geneva, Switzerland


 On a following day, we drove to Yvoire and Evian for more sightseeing.  Yvoire was one of the highlights of our entire trip.  If you like medieval, visit Yvoire, on the south shore of Lake Leman, which is a scenic village with the rare virtue of convenient parking.  You are probably familiar with Evian water; this town is the site of the gushing spring where it all started.  It is a comparatively recent city; the oldest buildings are only about 200 years old.  I took few photos at Evian; other than a pleasant lakefront area, it was not noteworthy in its somewhat typical modernness.  I understand that a tour of the Evian plant is available.  This city is also on the south shore of Lake Leman (French name), also called Lake of Geneva.  The north shore is Swiss territory which we have visited on a previous trip.

Typical building in Yvoire.  Okay, that is not a 'medieval" TV antenna, but they have kept much of the heritage while making it a 'lived-in' village.

Lots of stone walls and enclosed gardens.  I wonder if those walls may lend protection from cold north winds sweeping off the lake.

On the left is a hotel, but you can see that much of nature has been preserved.

Another beautiful wooden power boat with harmonious details.


                                      

Great reflection of the sailboat masts; no wind and a good day to stay at their docks.

We debated visiting the touristy mountain town of Chamonix which is fairly close but were afraid that we would discover just another location with too many tourists and no parking; plus, at this point we were limited for time.  Snow-clad Alpine peaks, including Mt. Blanc were visible from our location. 

Yvoire waterfront with appropriate architecture and authentic wooden fishing boats.

 
Yvoire town gate (some upper works missing).  I had to wait until most tourists, and a delivery van were finally gone before taking this photo.

Aren’t vacations supposed to be fun and relaxing?  This trip, although rewarding, has felt like a continuous series of challenges.  Our time in Geneva provides a good example.  Driving from our Hotel L’Arborescence (9 total rooms) near Annecy to Geneva, the plan was to refuel at a petrol station along the way.  We encountered zero petrol stations!  Negotiating an interminable series of roundabouts and urban complexity, our first stop was our Hilton hotel to drop off luggage and get our Geneva public transport passes (common throughout Switzerland).  Next was to drop off our car at Hertz airport car rental

We were supposed to return our Volvo with a full tank of gas, but it wasn’t worth the hassle to drive around looking for a petrol station, and the Hertz people were good with receiving the car near empty of fuel.  They even deducted one day from our rental because we were two hours early for the return.  Next, we needed to find a public bus headed for central Geneva.

Not much else besides this cathedral and some cobblestone streets remain from the old section of Geneva.  If you want the latest in shopping experiences, I am sure you can find it here.

I knew that central Geneva was near the river, but we wanted to explore the old section, not the pricey retail stores.  We found the ‘old town’ (look for cobblestone streets), but it proved to be small and not noteworthy.  Alternately, we toured a museum of practical art (exhibits of furniture, staircases, home design, and other implements).  We struck up a long conversation with one of the guards there. He was from Portugal, and we discussed the history and attractions of that country.  He would like to return to Portugal, but the job market is better here in Geneva.

Jet d'Eau with its constant stream of water.  Note how high it goes in comparison to the masts of those sailboats.

Next was a tasty and expensive lunch followed by a walk along the harbor visiting more attractions.  The 'Jet d'Eau' is a major focal point at the city waterfront.  It is a fountain in the harbor projecting a stream of water 140 meters (460 feet) into the air.  Continuing our walk, we passed the English Garden, crossed the Pont du Mont-Blanc (bridge), passed the Brunswick Monument, and arrived at what (on posted maps) was a TI, tourist information center.  All we found was a ferry terminal.  Ferries from this location travel to many parts of the lake.  On a previous trip to this area*, we took a ferry to Montreux at the far end of the lake and then returned by train.

*See September 2021 entry, 'Lausanne and Lake Geneva'

Asking at the ferry ticket office, we were told that the TI was located at the transportation center about 8 blocks northwest, uphill from the harbor.  Following GPS directions, we found the TI, got our bus directions, (bus #5) and were dropped off close to our Hilton hotel.  One last problem: a huge convention center, Palexpo, stood between us and our hotel. GPS stated it would take 24 minutes to walk around the periphery of this complex to our hotel.  We tried to enter the building but were refused by guards: a pass was needed.  Then I realized that one partial level of the huge building complex was a parking garage.  We took stairs to the parking garage and were able to pass through the complex on that level to get back to our hotel, saving 15 minutes.

Every action we took during our day in Geneva required a new decision.  Our vacations tend to be informative, enjoyable, but not too relaxing.  When you go on your own, filling in the details as you travel, this is the situation you face.

Lake Leman ferry boats are very old side paddle boats that have been well maintained





Wednesday, October 22, 2025

Annecy & Cruseilles, France

 Bustling, scenic Annecy, France, continues to be full of tourists at this date in October, and it is understandable.  The city borders a large lake which promotes a mild climate.  We saw hearty souls still swimming in its cool, clear waters.  The city is surrounded by mountains, the ‘pre-Alps’ with the true Alps nearby to the east.  The outlet of the lake, a small river, flows through the city, past ancient bridges, cobblestone streets, and ancient stone buildings with historic character.  We discovered a large marketplace for fresh fruits & vegetables, cheese, wine, meats…. Pretty much anything you could want was there. Tourists in large numbers, many restaurants, and an adjacent retail district for anything else that could interest you.

Annecy promenade; great place for a long walk while enjoying a pleasant day.  We are looking east, the city is off to the left (north).  

Dawn relaxing on a bench lakeside.

Looking south from Annecy along the length of its adjacent lake.

Old town Annecy, looking west along the outflowing river.

A large and well-attended market in old town.  Providing restaurants with fresh produce and, at other booths, handcrafts for tourists.

The old town section of Annecy extends along both sides of the outflowing river requiring a series of bridges.


I have a weakness for the fair curves of wooden boats.  Hundreds of boats, mostly plastic are available for rent along the waterfront here.  It must get hectic on a summer's day with the crowds of tourists.  


Every tourist seemed to want a photo of this building, and it is a striking location.


L'Arborescence Hotel & Restaurant, located on a small lake (15-minute brisk walk around it) on the outskirts of Cruseilles.

Near our lakeside hotel, on the far shore, was a pleasant, wooded park with a deer enclosure.

The major difficulty in visiting Annecy was to negotiate the multitude of roundabouts, one-way streets, bus-only zones, confusing GPS directions, and find a PARKING place.  We got yelled at when GPS directed us into a bus only zone.  Finally, we found a well-positioned parking spot, and we walked everywhere else, not wanting to endure the maze of traffic more than once.  If we were to do it again, I would enter "Annecy parking lot near lake" into my GPS instead of simply "Annecy".


I am glad that I selected a hotel (9 rooms total) near the town of Cruseilles for our accommodation.  Otherwise, we would have had the same problem we encountered in the London area.  L'Arborescence, our hotel, is located on a small lake with walking paths and even a wild animal enclosure.  The hotel was recently purchased by a young couple only a month before our visit.  It is a decent hotel, but many details need to be refreshed.  Their restaurant is supposed to be outstanding (often sold-out, reservations needed), but Dawn and I did not eat there.  We hate waiting until 7 pm to eat.  Instead, we went to the local Boulangerie-Patisserie in close-by Cruseilles.


  

Monday, October 20, 2025

Montagny les Buxy, Beaune, and Burgundy

 After a long drive, the Alsace region is now behind us, and we are in the Burgundy wine region.  We are staying at Villa Fugue Blanche B&B which is absolutely beautiful.  They have three rooms to rent and provide superb service.  Breakfast is home prepared with homemade jams and juices. Valerie is an interior architect and Jean-Philippe is a retired corporate manager.  He got burned out from hectic business travel world-wide and now enjoys home cooking for guests.  For Valerie, she has transferred her business from Paris to this location and is now more selective in her projects.  As an interior architect, in addition to choosing furnishings and finishes, her range of services includes changing doors, windows, and walls in rethinking an interior.  She has done a very attractive job of updating what were previously two old houses.

You can kind of see how this was previously two houses.  The owners live in the right half and rent three rooms in the left half.


Montagny les Buxy:  I think that means that Montagny is a suburb of Buxy.  The entire area is covered with vineyards.  

Looking across the broad valley towards Buxy.  During WWII, Buxy was controlled entirely by the occupying German Army, but Montagny was part of Vichy France.  People coming home from shopping had to pass through a German guard post.

No cathedral in this village, but I liked the composition in this view of their church.

We really enjoyed our conversations with Valerie and Jean Philippe.  If you pay attention to international news, you are aware that France has gone through five prime ministers in the past two years.  They explained that the prime ministers each came to the conclusion that France must drastically cut its expenditures.  Too many handouts and subsidies.  However, the national legislature does not want to accept such facts.  This is what happens when takers outnumber producers.  Valerie and Jean Philippe say the France is at its absolute low point.  Their total effective tax rate is 65%.  They encourage young people to move elsewhere.  All of this is a lesson for us in the United States.

I do not think that they manage this B&B for its profitability, more likely for stimulation.  Their visitors come from all over the world.  You need a vehicle (or road bicycle) and GPS to find their location in the tiny village of Montagny les Buxy, about 200 inhabitants.  No stores here, you need to drive to Buxy, a slightly larger village, for even basic shopping.  The view from our room looks across a river valley with extensive vineyards and scattered villages.  The nights are absolutely quiet.

Yesterday, we spent our time in the town of Beaune.  There is a walled central old town: narrow cobblestone streets, interesting shops and restaurants, old churches, and a famous hospital, Hospices de Beaune, (now a museum). Today, the current Wall Street Journal edition had an article on Beaune as the foremost wine town in the Burgundy region.  Beaune has a wine museum which recounts the history of wine in the region since Roman times.  People here take their wine very seriously.  They claim that the wine from each parcel of land has a unique taste.

We also drive to Dijon, famous for its mustard.  Unfortunately, it was a cool drizzly day, and parking was difficult.  We didn't see much worthwhile there.  The following day we headed south to Tournus and Macon.  We toured a beautifully maintained chateau and had the best meal of our trip, counting both the atmosphere as well as the food.

A chateau maintained for display near the Town of Tournus.

Beautiful gardens including a large shrubbery maze.

Kitchen with a fire burning in the fireplace and a boar's head hung above it.

Bed chamber.  What else did they use this room for besides sleeping?

Meals were a problem; that is, dinner was a problem.  Restaurants in France are only open 4-5 days per week, and they ALL (90%) close between 2 pm. and 7 pm.  Dawn and I hate late heavy dinners.  We were told that one reason that restaurants have such limited hours is because they can't find workers.  Instead, we would often eat our late meal (4-5 pm.) at a Boulangerie and Patisserie. That translates to a bakery and pastry shop.  We could find healthy sandwiches and fruit tarts (for me).  


Everything here was well maintained.  With the shrubbery sculptures, I am sure the trimming takes constant attention.

Another castle in the rea.  This one is not open for tourists, but I am sure its history would be interesting.

Sunday, October 19, 2025

Colmar, Alsace, and The Vosges Mts.

 From Basel we moved to a nice hotel in Colmar, France.  Colmar is a scenic, mid-sized city in the Alsace valley, a major wine-growing region.  This region was part of Germany from 1871 until the end of World War I, 1914-1918, and still shows a German influence.  To the west the Vosges mountains rise to 3,000-4,000-feet heights and were the scene of heavy fighting during that war.  Even today, portions of trenches, bunkers, and shell craters can be found in the thick forest that now cover its ridgeline.

If you enlarge this picture, you will see a cross atop the far hill.  Walking the path to that cross, you will see trenches, shell craters, and bunkers preserved from that long go war.  All the trees you see have grown up since 1918. this area was a barren wasteland when the fighting ended.

A bunker (the barred entry is to protect tourists from potential accidents) whose roof was formed by railroad rails then covered with rocks and dirt.

The area is attractive to tourists not only for its premium wines, but also for its scenic villages which retain the architecture of the medieval period in their central “Altstadt” areas.  Today those old buildings are well maintained with many shops and restaurants, although you may have to park on the edge of town.  I would love to better understand the craftsmanship involved 500+ years ago when this was all being built.

Dawn and I spend our days visiting various Altstadt sites, plus a war memorial, castle ruins, and a nature trail.  In the early evenings, we wander the cobblestone streets of Colmar itself.  We have been to Colmar previously, but we then were recovering from COVID and had limited time.  Strasbourg, to the north is very scenic and much larger, but even more ‘touristy’.  Now we are back to explore in a more relaxed schedule.

We visited almost every small scenic village in the Alsace valley; so many so that in my memory they have all blended together.  Names like: Keyersburg, Eguisheim, Riquewihr, Rouffach, and Guberschwihr.  Although it was now October, plenty of tourists were still present.



This Sherman tank is a memorial to the US soldiers who drove out the last German troops at the end of WWII.




These boats are called punts.  Instead of being rowed, in this shallow river they are propelled using a pole.



When this street was laid down, there was no thought of the modern automobile.



Arrival at Basel

 Our first day in Basel, cloudy, drizzling, and a high of 55 degrees. But you can’t just sit in your hotel room.  Off we went on a bus to downtown.  We missed a bus connection but made up for it by walking the remaining distance.  Many shoppers out, interesting store windows, wonderful architecture, 'fussganger' areas (pedestrian only), thus, our walk was pleasant.  We were here briefly three years ago and remember a sumptuous meal we shared at an Italian restaurant but, despite searching, were unable to discover it again.

Basel Airport is at the intersection of Switzerland, France, and Germany (just across the Rhine River).   At the airport, if you go out one door, you are in France while another door leads you to Switzerland. 

Instead, we toured the Basel Zoo, small but an easy walk from the city center.  The weather seemed to not affect attendance; plenty of parents with children.  The sea lions don’t mind this weather, but the large African animals are now indoors.  While at the zoo, we received an email stating that our scheduled flight London to Washington, DC, was canceled.  From the zoo we called British Airlines and rescheduled.  Cell phones are amazing. 

Every town or village has a cathedral, many are magnificent.  It demonstrates the power of the church in previous centuries.

W never tire of looking at the interesting architecture from that medieval era, built using no modern construction equipment.

A day later and now the sun is out, and it is warmer.  We picked up our rental car and headed for Freiburg, Germany, an hour away.  A section of the autobahn had no speed limit, and Dawn ran the Volvo up to almost 100 mph.  Freiburg is a popular university town, it was Saturday, and we had difficulty finding parking.  When you are in a city whose streets were laid out 500 years before the invention of the automobile, that difficulty is not surprising.  Finally, frustrated, I googled ‘public parking’, found the names of two companies that had parking structures, downloaded their app, and was able to get guidance to a nearby underground parking lot.

Our Volvo XC40 was an outstanding rental car.  Heated seats and steering wheel, auto trans, 500-mile range on a fuel tank, but the feature that really caught our interest was the 360-degree camera system.  No, it does not have a camera on the roof.  Instead, it has a series of unobtrusive cameras installed about fender level which are tied together with software to provide a view as if you were looking down from above.  With the narrow roads, cramped parking garages, and narrow parking space prevalent in Europe, this is a valuable feature.  Perhaps I should mention that when we were renting the car, the quote for insurance was about $1700-1800 dollars.  We elected no insurance and brought it back without even a scuff mark (as we have on every other rental we have ever used).

 

A photo to demonstrate the crowds present on this Saturday afternoon.

Freiburg has a magnificent cathedral.  Concession tents and food trucks were arranged around it along with a stage and entertainment.  Crowds everywhere.  After a nice meal and exploration of the Altstadt, it was time to head back to Basel.  Tomorrow and for the following 11 days we will be in France. 

Saturday, October 18, 2025

England

Supermarine Spitfire, England's premier fighter during the London blitz.  It had a Rolls Royce engine.  The US used that same engine design under license, in its P-51 Mustang fighter.


I confess to poor planning for our stay near London.  I did not realize how horrific traffic is in that area.  We chose a hotel halfway between London and Heathrow, thinking it would be convenient to both: it wasn't.  If you want to visit London proper, use the train system.  If you want to visit outlying villages, get an accommodation outside the metro area.  Our hotel was near a park, and we could go for evening walks along a path surrounded by fields and trees, but....  The only nearby public transport was a bus stop.  We had a rental car but had to fight traffic for about an hour to get past the convoluted traffic and narrow streets.

This is a typical street near our hotel.  You travel at the speed of the buses around you.

We did take that public bus one day to visit a nearby shopping mall.  Nice mall, but it took an hour to go the 8-9 miles to get there.  Fortunately, it was a double decker bus, and we got to sit up front on top and enjoy the scenery.

Europe loves 'roundabouts' as a way to avoid stop lights.  They work well with moderate traffic.  Unfortunately, in the London/Heathrow area, traffic is so thick that the roundabouts are choked.  The solution has been to place a traffic light at each point in the roundabout where traffic enters or exits.  Now, to get through, what should be an intersection, you have to deal with at least three traffic lights plus the complexity of the traffic circle just to stay straight ahead on the road you are following. 

GPS is a great aid, but not infallible.  A few times our auditory guidance was telling us to turn in one direction while our route chart was indicating the opposite direction.  Exits may be only a few car lengths apart, and if the auditory guide is slow or fast in its announcement, "Turn here!", you will take the wrong exit and need to do a U-turn somewhere down the road to get back on course.  In busy traffic, don't look down at the GPS screen; have someone act as navigator (usually me).   

We were able to leave the metro area to visit the village of Castle Combe, west near Bath.  The village was scenic but small.  You could enjoy all of it in less than an hour, hardly justifying the several hours it took to get there.

Church at Castle Combe village, with a graveyard in the foreground.

We also visited the imperial war museum north near Duxford.  This museum is an actual working airfield where historic aircraft not only can be seen in static displays but also in flyovers, takeoffs and landings.  They have a large group of WWII Spitfire fighters.  There is also a large building where other historic aircraft are actively being restored to flyable status.  World War I is a special interest of mine, and I was able to view examples of some of the most noteworthy biplanes of that era (Spad, Nieuport, Bristol, Fokker, RE8).

German Messerschmidt BF-109 fighter, shot down over England during the Blitz.

Backyard landscaping in Village of Castle Combe, scenic but small. There was no open parking in the village, it was atop a hill several hundred yards away.

Heathrow airport has a reputation for being difficult to navigate.  The complex consists of five large terminals, each with a large number of concourses and gates.  The concourses are not arranged linearly; they may be far apart.  Dawn and I enjoy long walks, for the exercise it provides, between long flights, and they have shuttle trains for the less mobile.  We have now been through Heathrow four times with no troubles.  Read all the signs, and don't hesitate to ask for guidance.

Weather was perfect for our visit.  Our hotel itself was very comfortable; near the Thames River, a 200-acre park, with surrounding green fields and a walking path.  The daily struggle started when we left the Syon Park grounds.  


With England's moderate and wet climate, gardens grow well.

Friday, September 19, 2025

Dentistry is about people, not just teeth

 No, this entry is not about travel experience, it is about life experience while providing dental care.  People are more interesting than their teeth.  Each person has their own story.  Feel free to skip this one.  We will get back to travel very soon.


Martha Caigambal:

While on an oral surgery rotation in my Comprehensive Dentistry Program, I encountered an especially interesting patient.  Martha Caigambal was an elderly lady with a very complicated medical history.  She was specifically accepted to our program as a challenging learning case and would not have otherwise been accepted.  Our normal mission was dental treatment for active-duty military only.  She was assigned as my patient.

Martha was a family member (mother or grandmother) of a US military member.  She was from the Philippines and a ‘reverse smoker’; that is, when smoking she would put the lit end of the cigarette inside her mouth.  Having spent time in the Philippines, my guess is that the habit originated due the rainy climate there.  The consequence is that the oral palatal tissue on such people is dry and scarred from being subjected to intense heat.  But that was a small part of her medical problems.  I remember that she had CHF, congestive heart failure, and diabetes, plus other issues beyond my memory.  She brought her medications to us in a shopping bag, from which she took pills sporadically.

Dentally, all her molars were beyond repair and needed extraction.  The hospital internal medicine department refused to be responsible for her admission; she was admitted by one of our board-certified oral surgeons.  Anesthesiology recommended that we use local anesthetics only; they were worried that if a deeper ‘numbing level’ were used, she may not recover consciousness.  Her heart condition plus bleeding problems were two Immediate concerns.  Diabetes increased the risk of infection.

Nevertheless, an anesthesiologist was present with their equipment and an IV started in the OR, operating room, in case of an emergency.  Martha was admitted to the hospital two days in advance, to ensure that her long list of medications was taken properly and that her laboratory values were stabilized and optimized.  Her anti-coagulant therapy was temporarily discontinued.

I am happy to report that her dental treatment was completed without further complication, and healing was uneventful.  I do remember her crying, “You are killing me!” during the surgery.  It wasn't from pain, but from the obvious trauma involved in removing multiple teeth.  Those multi-rooted molars with rotted crowns can be difficult to remove.  The fact that infection had spread to adjacent bone, with some abscess formation, reduced the quality of bone support and made tooth removal physically easier.

Did she subsequently improve her dental hygiene?  Removing those infected teeth had to help her general health status.  She was only accepted for this treatment for training purposes in our residency program.  I remember her name because of the complex medical problems to be evaluated and managed. 


General Alexander Haig

When I oversaw the Walter Reed Hospital dental clinic in Washington, DC, 4-star retired General Alexander Haig had ‘his people’ request an appointment for dental care at our clinic.  He is a very senior guy, also the past US Secretary of State, and past Supreme Commander of NATO forces.  But you notice, he was “retired”, not on active duty.

Our major Army mission at the Walter Reed clinic was to treat active-duty soldiers (as well as any emergencies that occurred on hospital grounds).  We were also tasked with providing specialty care for US government employees involved in overseas terrorist attacks, i.e. Africa.  Occasionally, under special circumstances, we saw and treated heads of foreign countries who would come to the US for state-of-the-art care (very high security, on a weekend when the clinic was otherwise vacant.)

If a retired General is deserving of appointments, then why not retired lower-level enlisted soldiers?  What should a changed policy include?  My reply was that our dental clinic did not treat retirees, active duty only.  Haig’s ‘people’ then contacted the one-star General in charge of Walter Reed, and he commanded that we provide an appointment for General Haig.  (Patient standards for medical care were more inclusive than prescribed for dental patients.  I believe they still are.)

My reaction was to contact the two-star US Army General in charge of the entire Army Dental Corps to see what policy to follow.  I couldn’t countermand the hospital commander without the Dental Corps Commander’s backing.  Meanwhile General Haig was already scheduled for his initial appointment.

The awaited reply from the US Army Dental Corps commander, a man I knew personally, came only a few hours before the scheduled appointment.  I could not properly cancel that appointment at the last moment.  Instead, I saw General Haig at the appointed time, did a complete examination, and corrected a simple defect in one of his restorations.

Then I explained his overall treatment needs to him.  He had some long-term needs which would require multiple appointments.  Using the most diplomatic words I could muster, I explained that the clinic was focused on active-duty military.  Fortunately, he took it well, stating that, of course, he had the means to afford dentistry wherever he chose.  His concern was for those military retirees who could not afford such options.  He then made a parting joke about President Clinton.

I learned in my career (sooner would have been better) that politics are universal.  This situation ended amicably.  The next incident I will describe did not end so well.

 

The Retiree from New Jersey

The driving time from New Jersey to Washington, DC, is 3-4 hours, with the route passing by the major cities of Philadelphia and Baltimore.  Thus, I was surprised when a military retiree from New Jersey showed up at our reception desk demanding care for his “dental emergency”.  Our reception personnel, whom I had great faith in, explained our policy of care for active duty, but he was insistent.  Being in charge of the clinic, I was not going to let our trusted reception personnel take the brunt of his displeasure.  Fortuitously, we had records of a previous visit by this same person.  He had shown up almost a year prior, been seen for a different problem, and, on that visit, was told that he also had a tooth that needed to be extracted.

Now that tooth was hurting.  I explained to him that his situation did not qualify as an emergency.  He would not be seen here.  When a patient is told they need an extraction but then elects to wait until it becomes painful, the pain is the result of their poor planning.  How many other dental offices did he drive by on his 200-mile trip to DC?  He was unwilling to spend any of his own money on his neglected dental needs.  Dental care was worth zero to him, but he wanted us to redirect our efforts away from our designated active-duty mission toward his schedule for his needs.

I was adamant.  I had seen the same thing happen with middle-of-the night patients who came in when it was convenient for them.  They didn’t want to pay, and they didn’t want to take time off from work and lose wages.  This could be true even if it was their children experiencing pain.  But they didn’t mind inconveniencing our dental staff with a night-time visit.

He cussed me out roundly in front of the reception personnel and scheduled patients awaiting care.  He loudly declared that he hoped I would “rot in hell.”  It did not bother me.  I wanted it to be known to our staff that I would support them, and I would support established policies.

A month or more later, I received a letter forwarded to me from President Clinton's office.  This same retiree vented his written displeasure with Walter Reed, and specifically with me, and sent it to the highest authority he could think of.  I received no reprimand or other unfavorable repercussions.  Just part of the job.

When determining dental care priorities, I was never concerned about military rank or cost.  I had three criteria: 1) Will the patient appreciate and maintain good dental health after the care given?  2) Will the patient show up for needed appointments?  3) Will the patient be available long enough to complete all required steps in the procedure?  My time and the taxpayer's money are not to be wasted.

I have little regard for those who expect me to care more about their teeth than they do personally.   

When it was my turn for emergency call, and I had come in late at night, often the patient was someone who did not see a dentist for routine care but only came in for ‘emergencies’.  If it was a tooth that needed to be extracted and they asked me to “pull it”, I would generally write them a script for pain medication and tell them to get an appointment.  If they asked me only for pain medication for the tooth, I would usually go ahead and extract the tooth.  I wanted to change their habits away from midnight visits and towards regular scheduled dental care.  Some of those encounters, when asking only for pain medication, were more interested in getting drugs that having their ‘problem’ treated.     

Saturday, September 06, 2025

Rewards Beyond Money

 After writing "Careers and a Hobby", I kept remembering the special patients and unique situations that made my dental career so rewarding.  In the US military, dental/medical care is not determined by rank or cost, the question is whether the patient needs and deserves the treatment considered.  I asked three things of my patients: 1) Will you practice good hygiene to maintain the results?  2) Will you show up for all needed appointments?  3)  Will you be assigned at this base long enough to complete required treatment?

Question number one was most critical.  I will not waste my time or the taxpayer's money.  Number two could be impaired by frequent deployments.  Number three is important because partially completed treatment can leave a patient in worse condition than no treatment all.

What follows is a story of one of many patients for whom care provided was life changing, and I will never forget. 

When Dawn suggested that I apply to dental school, instead of medical school, her consideration was that it would allow more regular hours, more time available for family activities.  My reply was, “Dentistry sounds boring.”; I had very limited understanding of dental procedures at that time.

However, I did take time to interview a dentist, with an engineering background, and was introduced to the broader span of dental procedures.  Certainly, the technical complexity and creativity needed in dental treatment, individualized for each patient, made dental practice seem interesting.  After working with patients for some time, the procedures became more routine (still challenging and tedious), and the personalities and experiences of my patients became the central aspect that made my practice rewarding.

The opportunity to apply for a military scholarship was attractive to us, both for financial support and a chance for future travel.  In dental school, some of my classmates derided the thought of practice in the US military, saying that such a practice would mainly consist of tooth extractions on patients with low appreciation for dental health, but they were simply showing their ignorance.  I knew from previous enlisted military experience, that such patients could appreciate good care.

Our military service members come from a wide span of backgrounds, including hardship and foreign-born (mainly third world), but their commitment and necessary discipline come from a desire for achievement, improving their lot in life.  They have interesting stories from their personal backgrounds as well as military assignments worldwide.  When military recruitment is difficult, the US Army is forced to accept less qualified candidates for recruitment to meet quotas.

I was serving at Fort Drum, in northern New York State, when one of our dental hygienists called me over to meet a young, enlisted arrival, who had been treatment-planned for full dentures at his initial dental examination elsewhere.  I could easily see why he had been marked for such drastic treatment.

His hygiene was garbage; plaque, food debris, and inflamed gingival tissue everywhere, and every tooth had visible caries, the front teeth looking like apple cores, with the contacts between adjacent teeth rotted away.  The only reason he was scheduled to see a hygienist was that, even when surgery is planned, oral hygiene needs to be at an acceptable level to avoid surgical complications (i.e., excessive bleeding) and post-surgery infections.

Much of the bone in our jaws is there to support our teeth; once the teeth are gone, the surrounding bone atrophies.  Dentures at an early age may mean that later in life there will not be enough jawbone remaining to support dentures.  I have seen it happen.  He obviously came from a sad dysfunctional background.  Did I want to commit him to a toothless future?  Change is difficult.

I try never to judge a person by first impressions (although they are often accurate).  This was what his previous life had given him, but, now with his military acceptance, he had a chance for a new future.  Would he be up to the challenge of changing his habits and accepting responsibility to achieve drastic improvement?

I sat with him and clearly explained why the previous dentist had recommended full dentures.  I explained that, with his absolute lack of effort toward hygiene, any attempt at restoration would be a waste of time.  (Something I had learned early in my career was that the patient must care as much as you, the provider, or your treatment will not last.)  The treatment plan could change if his efforts toward dental health improved.  At this point, he had completely given up any attempt at hygiene.  He was in a world of ignorance, neglect, pain, and shame.  I left him with the hygienist for cleaning and instruction and told her to book his next appointment with me.

When I saw him next, his hygiene had improved little, if at all.  He was still stuck in a cycle of hopelessness.  He hadn’t fully comprehended the alternate future that I was offering.  Difficult oral conditions, copious debris and inflammation, were present, but I was able to isolate and restore a few of his front teeth comfortably, esthetically, and without exposing the pulp tissue even while removing deep caries.  I handed him a mirror to view those few teeth which I had carefully restored to an original healthy form.  For the first time, he started to comprehend/believe what I was saying: “If you improve your oral hygiene, I can restore enough natural teeth to give you an acceptable smile.”

Every visit after that, his brushing and flossing efforts were greatly improved.  I had to improvise on many of the restorations because caries were more extensive than commonly encountered.  We had to extract (hopeless) all his molars and two lateral incisors (replaced by false teeth bonded in place), but to appearances, the result was a pleasing and healthy smile.  He told me, “Now for the first time I can go home, see my family and friends, and have a normal smile!”  Think of the significance of that…. Not just his smile, but his life had changed.

Almost year later I saw him again.  Excellent hygiene and not one defective restoration or new cavity.  He stated that the dental clinic was his favorite place to visit on our Army base.  What could be more professionally satisfying?  With dental treatment, I had been able to improve his entire outlook.

Encounters such as this were repeated throughout my career.  The military is a great place for encouraging change.  The goal was not just teeth but improving lives.  Dentistry is a very personal service.  I view my patients as good people who perhaps need some education, motivation, and treatment to correct faulty habits.  The satisfaction in doing that far outweighed any challenges involved in completing necessary procedures.

Monday, August 11, 2025

Looking Ahead to New Travels, UPDATE Jan. 2026

 Currently (2025), we have four future trips to look forward to.  First, we return to Europe for more exposure to some of our favorite destinations (Switzerland and France for this trip).  There are always new regions to visit.  Having previously lived in Europe for five years, our visits include new locations but are part of a somewhat familiar culture.  [entries every year, 2016-2025 except during Covid 2020]

Second, we take a cruise along the coasts of Argentina and Chile with flight stops in Florida and DC on our way home.  We have visited Argentina previously, been to Patagonia, and the border with Chile, but our stops this time will be new.  Last Spring, we volunteered to give up our reservation for a 10-day Caribbean cruise (overbooked) in return for a free and enhanced future cruise.  This will be the enhanced (18-day, penthouse) cruise.  [see Argentina entries, March 2017]

Third, we return to the big island of Hawaii for a break from winter weather in Colorado.  Maui previously has been our favorite island, but on our most recent visit there, it seemed more congested, as if each location had been given an 'attractiveness' score and then priced accordingly.  The hope is that the big island of Hawaii will be less developed.  We have visited the Big Island twice previously but not in recent years.  [see 'Maui', May 2025 and December 2016]

Fourth, we return to Japan, plus South Korea, to see more of the country.  Our stop there this past Spring was too brief to satisfy our interest.  I first visited Japan in 1967 and found people there to be very welcoming as well as polite and organized.  Now we will circumnavigate the country on a 3-week cruise.  I have never been to South Korea but am impressed by my exposure to its people and culture (movies, K-pop).  [see 'Vietnam to Japan', April 2024, and 'Japan', May 2025]

UPDATE:

We have two trips already scheduled for 2026, but then we expect to change our priorities.  In 2025, we traveled for a total of 130 days, overwhelmingly to international destinations.  We have travelled to 70+ foreign countries, many with repeat visits.  We will be going to Hawaii later this Spring.... for our 7th visit (my 9th including military duty).  Far away destinations no longer hold the attraction for us that they once did.

When these two trips are done, we have no great hankering for new destinations.  We ask ourselves, "What next?" and have no engaging answers.  We still like to snorkel: Caribbean, Tahiti?  And we have an affinity for Europe, but nothing specific.  How different would Bucharest be than Budapest which we have already visited?  Traveling has somewhat become a question of how to avoid the crowds.

Instead, we are considering more travel here in North America.  We have been to 49 States but never to North Dakota.  Other domestic destinations have been given only brief attention; we knew they would always be there.  Less flying and more driving?  Bring not just a suitcase but also tow a boat(s).  We are presently buying a second home in Florida's warmer climate.  Although changing our priorities, we expect to be equally active but pursue new directions. 

About 1800 miles (2800 kilometers) between our two homes; transferring belongings (including cars, boats) is going to be a chore.  We expect to spend summers in Colorado (no need for air conditioning) and winters in Florida (no snow to shovel). 

  

Wednesday, August 06, 2025

Careers and a Hobby

 My interest in boats, shared with my brother, started when our uncle gave us a decrepit plywood pram.  It was poorly cared for and leaked.  We sealed the seams with roofing tar and painted it with house paint.  Then we named it “Tar Baby” in honor of the tarred seams.  Later, our family bought a boat for waterskiing, a sport we came to love.  Next, my brother and I each joined the US Navy Reserves when we reached 17 y. o. and while still in high school.

My Navy service included crossing the Pacific Ocean twice (LST hull, then destroyer), spending most of a year in the Mekong Delta, next providing coastal fire support, and finally cruising north from Vietnam to Japan for ship maintenance.  My nautical education began with US Navy navigation school in San Diego and subsequently continued with real life experience and onboard texts as my guide.


USS Askari, ARL-30, on station in the Mekong Delta.  As usual, barges and river craft alongside, our ship providing repair services for all of the Riverine forces in Vietnam.  A converted LST hull, this 325-foot-long ship had a top speed of less than 10 mph.

USS Preston, DD-795, taken October 1966, a year before I was assigned to her.  This was a WWII vintage vessel, capable of up to 35 knots (40 mph) but near the end of her service life.  As well as serving as plane guard for the aircraft carriers in the gulf of Tonkin, its six 5-inch guns were used for coastal fire support.  At 375 feet long, it would be considered small by today's standards.

One early morning, while on a Navy training exercise off the coast of Mexico, I witnessed a rare event of the sun’s rays being bent, diffracted, by the earth’s atmosphere just before sunrise so that, for a few moments, I was able to see islands that were far beyond the visible horizon, more than a hundred miles away.  While crossing the Pacific, we went through the edge of a typhoon, experiencing huge waves crashing over the bow, waves sweeping across the deck, and the entire ship shuttering as the plunging hull intermittently exposed the propulsion screws from the seas.  From instances like this, I developed respect for the unflagging nature of the ocean’s power and its vastness.

With my girlfriend, Dawn, at the beach in Santa Barbara, CA.  She helped me with the model hull testing for my engineering research paper.  (Great partner, still together 55 years later.)

After my release from the Navy, I went back to my mechanical engineering studies at the University of California, Santa Barbara.  The Pacific Ocean forms one boundary of the campus.  The school has a crew club (rowing), surfing team, and a fleet of sailboats at Santa Barbara harbor.  Taking a sailing class out of Santa Barbara, I was intrigued by the forces in play determining sailboat performance.  Joining crew club exposed me to the influences of wave versus frictional drag.  At the same time, I needed to complete a senior research paper topic for my engineering studies.  Thus, I chose sailing hull design as the topic of my research paper.

I was able to design a system for testing scaled hull models in a calm swimming pool with valid and consistent results.  The drawback was that I needed to construct a series of model hulls with varying parameters to test the influence of design changes and be able to describe them mathematically.  Simple photos would not suffice.  Researching previous hull design information, which was sparse in the published literature, I was able to customize mathematical equations and methods of projection to describe a limited range of hull forms.

An outline of hull measurement methodology: static stability & towed resistance (drag).

My research paper was successful with an "A" grade.  But my search for fulfilling employment as an engineer was not so successful.  At graduation, jobs for new engineers were hard to find.  I was successful in gaining employment, but much of my duties consisted of reviewing architectural plans and financial data, looking for mistakes and ways to increase efficiency or, alternately, ordering parts from a catalog.  Not much creativity in that.

Our engineering department was blamed for project construction cost overruns; in response, I did a comprehensive review of the past ten-years construction bids (for projects subsequently built years later) and results showed that, in fact, it was the marketing department failing to allow for union labor wage inflation that resulted in the cost over-runs.  The big boss was a marketing guy and did not want to accept my facts.  I was disgusted and started looking for alternatives to these petty office politics. 

Our Morgan 27 sailboat on San Francisco Bay.  A very nice ocean-going boat, but the worst purchase decision I have ever made.  Too many changes going on in our lives at that point to make such a commitment.

I quit my engineering job and temporarily took a job as an airline terminal agent while deciding what to do next.  I also signed up for organic chemistry, biology, and psychology courses at a nearby college.

I considered pursuing an MBA degree (scoring in the top 1% on the Graduate Management Aptitude Test for admissions) but decided that it would likely put me in a realm where office politics were even more central to any success.  Later in my career, I realized that office politics are universal, unavoidable, and a basic aspect of human nature.

I considered a degree in naval architecture, but, at a visit to UC Berkeley, was told that ship design had no future in the US.  Designing ventilation, plumbing, and electrical systems for ships would be a better pursuit.  I considered sailing around the world (even to the extent of buying an ocean-going sailboat), but after reflection, realized that was just escapism, avoiding difficult career choices.  My degree would be obsolete by the time I returned from such a voyage.

I considered medical school, but a suggestion from my wife, Dawn, changed my career path to dentistry, a whole new environment.  My focus became people: biology, chemistry, physiology, and psychology.  In our classes, little was said about the molecular structure of the materials we used; that was for engineers to know.  One of our dental texts included a chapter with sections written by one of my UCSB engineering professors, but it was given little attention.  Dawn encouraged me to apply for a military scholarship, not just for the financial help but also for the travel opportunities it provided.  It was a great suggestion.  Due to the scholarship, I graduated from dental training without any debt.

Our first major military assignment was in the country of Panama, near Colon, on the Atlantic coast.  When friends there asked me to be navigator in bringing the diesel trawler, they had purchased, from Miami to Panama, I had a chance to use my navigation training once again.  I was very thankful that I had supplemented my US Navy training with a text on Polynesian navigation, using nature instead of instruments, because their 'new' boat had little to offer for ocean navigation other than a compass and one chart.  We arrived safely on schedule despite engine problems.

I enjoyed my career in military dentistry, not completely retiring until age 75 (including time as a military contractor).  There were many patients I could list where I was able to not just ensure healthy teeth but also improve their lives.  That was always my goal.  Let me give one example: a woman (wife of a soldier) came to our clinic in the Netherlands in pain, with her face visibly swollen, due to a tooth which had rotted off into her maxilla (upper jaw, no visible tooth).  It was a surgical extraction with ample drainage of purulence, but I was able to treat her comfortably with adequate anesthesia.  After she departed, I told our receptionist, “I want to see the mouth that kisses her mouth.” (her husband).

Because her husband was a member of the US military, I was able to order him to come in for an examination.  Sure enough, he had significant dental problems also.  Neglecting your dental health can be grounds for separation from the military.  We treated both parents empathetically, comfortably, and were able to bring them into healthy, confident smiles.  Not just treatment, but education and motivation.  Then, they voluntarily brought their children in, and we were able to correct all developing problems.  We replaced fear, ignorance, neglect and shame with dental health and a confident future.  What better professional reward could I have?  This sequence was repeated with many other patients.  Being in the military, cost (other than not wasting taxpayer money) was not a factor.

Can I tell one more story concerning the US Army commander’s wife in Germany who was a dental phobic?  I diagnosed a dental problem of hers before even seeing or talking to her (I had treated her husband, the base commander, and he brought her previous radiographs to me).  His wife was talking to my wife by telephone one day, concerning Army base activities, when she mentioned that she had a minor toothache.  My wife whispered this comment to me.  I told my wife to ask her if the discomfort was on the lower right toward the back of her mouth.  She replied to my wife, "How can he know that!"

As a dental phobic, she had past experience of visiting dentists only when forced by circumstances.  She would, at the end of any visit, take with her all records generated, not planning to return.  I had carefully reviewed all her previous radiographs (provided by her husband) before filing them and had noted a developing defect in that lower right area.  After her toothache was comfortably treated, she came in for a series of cosmetic dentistry appointments, completely overcoming her phobia and improving her smile.  How about another…. enough said; I could go on and on.  Dentists tend to get little respect, but on multiple occasions I have witnessed the dramatic improvement in a person's entire life outlook from a healthy, pleasing smile.  That is all the satisfaction I need.  

Designed and built here in Colorado for daytrips and waterskiing.  The freeboard is probably greater than if I were designing a boat for a warmer climate.  The altitude for boating here can reach 10,000 feet.  We have full canvas enclosure when needed for inclement weather.

Was my engineering background to be forgotten?  No.  I went back to my senior engineering research on hull design using mathematical concepts.  Over the past fifty years, I have built 15 boats using my mathematical design approach and expanding on it.  While in dental school in Omaha, I built a canoe for the small nearby lakes and rivers.  While in Panama, I built a cartoppable sailboat for the beaches, and shallow reefs there.  While in Alabama, I built a 20-foot-long, two-masted sharpie sailboat for the large reservoirs in that area.  During a 10-year period (residency, Board exams, clinic management) I was too busy for such projects.  Part-time work and then retirement have given me more time, and a better workshop, for my design ideas including two outboard runabout designs.

A small kayak for my wife; the 13th boat hull I have designed and built.

Boat #14 almost completed: slightly longer, lower and narrower than boat #13.

I have enjoyed all of it: studying navigation, engineering, dentistry, woodworking.  My father, a high school graduate only, taught me by example that being a professional does not require a college degree; it is your attitude toward the task at hand that makes you a professional.  Commit to always doing your best.  No job is beneath you.

Life is a process of learning and becoming; dreams evolve to plans, then to realization, while facing the challenges of new situations along the way.  We learn, grow, and find meaning as we explore the world around us.

New Travel Dreams

 Where next should our travels take us?  We have already visited seventy-plus countries and lived overseas for eight years.  With a new wint...