Hawai’i, One More Time?

Classic sunset over the ocean

I first visited Hawaii in December 1966.  At that time, Don Ho was singing the song “Tiny Bubbles at a club on Waikiki Beach, and the XO on our ship also sang that same song when on duty on the bridge deck of our ship, USS Askari, which was in port at Pearl Harbor.  Our specially modified ship was on its way to Vietnam to be the mother ship for a Riverine flotilla in the Mekong Delta.  Off duty, I would walk down the gangplank with a paper bag holding my civilian clothes.  Arriving at Waikiki Beach, I would switch into my ‘civies’ at a public bathroom, then stash the bag (with my uniform) in nearby thick bushes.  Then, I was free from the Navy for the day!

Almost sixty years later, and after many more visits, we are back in the Hawaiian Islands for perhaps the last time.

Hawaiian scenery: sand, surf, blue seas, and black volcanic rock.

Spotted eagle ray in shallow water

Six months ago, I booked a short trip to the island of Hawai’i to serve as a relief to winter’s cold in Colorado.  Hilton was offering us a discounted condominium at Waikoloa Beach if we would listen to their time share presentation.  We really enjoyed the beautiful resort, but the share presentation left us unconvinced for our preferences. We had been to this resort once before, about 25 years ago and really enjoyed it then.  In fact, we never left the resort grounds on that visit.  This time, we had a rental car allowing us to explore further.

Does anyone remember the Western TV series 'Gunsmoke'?  This catamaran was previously owned by James Arness, the star of that show; thus, the name, "Seasmoke".

With a rental car, we have been able to explore more widely.  Driving to Hilo, we stopped at Rainbow Falls.  We paid about $22 for parking and admission then later realized that if we had parked only a half block away, this visit would have been free!  A nice stop but not amazing.  Later, we came across a botanical garden: $35 per person admission, more than we have ever paid.

Place of Refuge,  during conflicts if you were able to get here, you were safe.

Rainbow Falls, near Hilo

Waipio Valley

On another day, we drove to Waipio Valley Lookout.  The scene is a deep, narrow valley on the island’s north shore.  In 1946 this valley was struck by a tsunami with disastrous results so that now few people live there, although crops are still tended there today.  Hilo has also been affected by tsunamis.

View from our Marriott hotel room.

After five days at Waikoloa we shifted to the Marriott in Kailua-Kona, a different experience.  Instead of an all-encompassing resort atmosphere, we were located on the city harbor surrounded by stores, restaurants, and competing accommodation choices.  Unfortunately, the weather also changed.  Our sunny Hawaiian weather was replaced by clouds and intermittent rain.

Directly adjacent to the Marriott were grounds of a previous Hawaiian king and also a theater where Luaus were held.

Many stalls, and stores, for the tourists at Kailua-Kona

To escape the clouds, we drove to Volcanos National Park on the east side of the island.  Along the way we stopped at an unimpressive “Black Sand Beach”. When the coarse volcanic sand doesn’t extend to the water’s edge, is that still a "sand beach"?  At the volcano, the clouds returned.  Looking out across the broad caldera (2 by 3 miles across) the steaming fissures were obscured by clouds and fog with a sprinkle of rain, worthwhile to observe but difficult to capture in a meaningful photograph.  Continuing our trip, a drive around the entire island would take about five hours without stops.

Terrible weather for our visit to the volcanos.  At times a cloud would drift past and completely obscure our view.

This volcano is still actively erupting (about every two weeks); at such times it can spew red hot lava a thousand feet in the air, attracting a large crowd of spectators with resulting heavy traffic.

Our most satisfying site was Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Park, also called the "Place of Refuge".  Due to predicted heavy surf accompanying the rainy, windy weather, all the State beaches were closed, but this federal park was kept open, resulting in a crowd at this beach area.  But the park has other attractions: ponds, palm trees, a theater, a coastal walking trail, and ruins of early dwellings.  (The heavy surf never occurred).

An Indian mongoose.  Originally imported to help control rats.  Unfortunately, the mongoose is a daytime hunter, and the rat is a night-time nuisance.  The mongoose preys more on native birds and their eggs.

A green sea turtle. They are highly protected, but this one does not look healthy.

Early Hawaiian structures.  The path you see follows the coast for many miles connecting small native settlements.

Relaxing in shade on a sunny day at Waikoloa.

Overall, we were left unimpressed by this visit to Hawaii.  In the past, we always said that Hawaii was a guaranteed great destination to visit.  Now, not so much; crowded, expensive and highly commercialized.

Chile, Punta Arenas to Santiago

 We left Ushuaia and cruised into Chilean waters.  We were also leaving the protection of the Straits of Magellan and heading into more open waters.  Islands were still present, but, as we headed north, significant Pacific Ocean swells constantly rocked the ship port to starboard.  The Humboldt Current, flowing north from Antarctica, creates a cool wet climate similar to the coast of British Columbia.  

Stopping at Punta Arenas (almost 2,000 miles from the capital of Santiago), we participated in an excursion to a sheep and cattle ranch south from the city.  The ranchers are switching from sheep to cattle because meat from beef is more profitable than wool from sheep.  Also, sheep suffer greater losses from pumas (South American mountain lions).  The area is sparsely populated, and each ranch covers many thousands of acres.

We were able to watch a sheep shearing demonstration.  During the actual shearing of a flock, large outside crews are brought in to trim the hundreds of sheep involved.

We had two days at sea between Punta Arenas and Puerto Montt during which we were to experience scenic fjords and glaciers.  However, during those two days we experienced cold, light rain, fog, with associated cloudy skies.  Yes, I saw some glaciers, but it wasn't really good photographic material.  Dawn and I both experienced minor illnesses, mainly fatigue and chills, during this period so we were not out on deck as much as we could have been.

Our next destination was Puerto Montt and nearby Puerto Varas.  This area is experiencing rapid population growth from two main sources.  First, farming of salmon using submerged pens in the nearby fjords has proved very profitable.  Second, tourism is growing in this scenic area.  Many activities are being developed: boating, kayaking, ziplining, mountain climbing, horse riding, etc.  Housing is in short supply.  More stores are becoming focused on the tourist trade.

Our first activity was to be a hike on the nearby volcanic peak, Volcan Osorno.  However, it snowed the night before and a cloud bank cloaked the peak.  We were brought to about the 6,000-foot level and released from our bus to explore some crude foot paths in the near freezing weather.

The fun in that hike quickly dissipated, and we retreated to a lower elevation.  In this view, our volcano is hidden in stratus clouds.

Next stop was a rushing river with scenic waterfalls.  A wooden walkway had been constructed to get to this location for viewing.

Later in the day the clouds lifted, and we were able to enjoy the scenery.  This large lake is called Llanquihue.

Puerto Montt is at the same latitude as San Carlos de Bariloche on the Argentine side of the border.  In fact, there is a very minor border crossing between the two: a gravel road on the Chilean side leading to a ferry boat landing on Lago Nahuel Huapi in Argentina.  We encountered that crossing in 2017 on an all-day ferry boat ride.

A view of Valparaiso harbor.  Locals call it "the San Francisco of South America" but all we saw was a crowded city of hills.  I haven't been to San Francisco for a while, so maybe it is accurate.  We attempted to take a walk from our harbor pier location, but local residents twice warned us that the area was not safe for tourists such as us, so we turned back.

Not sure why, but vehicle transfers from Valparaiso to Santiago seem quite expensive to me.  I previously searched online and found a reserved private transfer, but at $249 it was hardly a bargain.

We really enjoyed our one-day stay in Santiago, Chile.  Our hotel, Solace Hotel Santiago, is in an excellent neighborhood, convenient to parks, restaurants, and the Teleferico. a cable car system to the top of San Cristobal Hill.  This cable car was chosen by TripAdvisor as the #1 city attraction.  In this photo, you are looking across the city to the snowcapped Andes Mountains.

View in another direction showing the wide expanse of the city.  This part of Chile has a climate similar to California.  Population is 7-8 million.  On our ride into the city, we encountered heavy traffic congestion.

This building, Costanera Center, at 300 meters, is the tallest building in Latin America.

The view from our hotel room window.  We were able to take long walks from our hotel.  We stopped at a nearby German-themed restaurant for a very tasty lunch.  Dinner was at our top-floor outdoor hotel restaurant.   Does this remind you of Hollywood hills, California?  

Our trip did not end here.  We probably would have spent more time in Chile except that we were due in Washington, DC, for Christmas.  From Santiago, we flew to Orlando, Florida, (via Panama) to visit friends and family.  Then we flew from Tampa to Dulles airport in DC to spend Christmas with our son, wife, and grandkids before finally flying home to Colorado.

I was extremely impressed with our service from COPA airlines.  When booking our travel back to the States, they offered the quickest and least expensive 1st class service of any airline.  That included a 40-minute stopover in Panama City to change flights.  As our flight from Chile landed, our next flight was starting to board.  Dawn and I hustled through the Panama airport (new and large) to get to that next flight.  Fortunately, our seats were in row 1.  Not only did we make it onboard, but our checked luggage made it as well!

Our grandkids were fun to be with, ages 6 and 8.  They are old enough that we can discuss almost anything with them on a somewhat equal basis.  By the next time we see them, they will probably be teaching us how to do things, especially with technology.

Falkland Islands and Ushuaia, Argentina

Next stop on our cruise was Port Stanley, Falkland Islands a British territory.  Alternately named "Las Malvinas" to Argentines.  Dawn and I had first considered visiting Argentina back in 1982 when we were living in Panama, but war over the Falkland Islands broke out between Argentina and England, and we were advised not to go there.

Total population of the Falklands is about 3,600.  Much of what we experienced there was a low, windy, treeless, somewhat barren landscape.  We did see some nice beaches and a colony of penguins.  The weather was quite variable, alternating between clouds, rain, and blue skies overhead.  The weather was favorable for our ship, which anchored in the bay and tendered us to a pier. When my sister & husband previously took a similar cruise route, they were unable to make this stop due to adverse weather.  

No pictures of Port Stanley because there wasn't anything I considered picture worthy.  Unadorned houses and other buildings, no landscaping, and faceless streets.

This is what much of the terrain looked like in our visit to the Falkland Islands.

The bay shown is absolutely beautiful.  If it weren't for the weather, you might think you are on a tropical island.

 

Pretty beach, pretty flowers, but rain clouds moving closer in the distant background.  Those rain clouds caught up with us on this hike.  Fortunately, we had an umbrella.  The wind-driven rain only made our legs wet.  Do you see the group of penguins in the middle of the beach?

With a zoom camera, now you can see the penguins clearly.

One penguin entering the water and another waddling a few feet behind.

There are low mountains, a few thousand feet tall, on these islands; this is only a rocky outcropping, but one of many.

Cruising a passage through the Tierra Del Fuego area.  Dramatic views in every direction including cloud formations.

 

Sealions and sea birds living on a rocky outcropping, safe from land predators, surrounded by the sea.

A few of the many fog-shrouded peaks which marked our route toward Ushuaia, the southern-most city on earth.

Ushuaia city center, called "Fin Del Mundo", that is, the end of the earth.

Ushuaia is the southernmost city on earth and, as such serves as the gateway to Antarctica. Many cruise ships stop here coming and going from that white continent. The scenery is spectacular, snowy mountain peaks in every direction.  The city is currently experiencing rapid growth.  This despite the cool, windy, changeable weather.  Our young female guide told us that she had moved there from Buenos Aires to get away from the congestion of that metropolis.

A snowclad, cloud-wrapped peak directly behind Ushuaia.  In each photograph I took, the cloud formations and lighting highlights were different.

Off to one side at Ushuaia was a bay with many colorful fishing boats.

A few of the excursion/expedition ships in the foreground and beautiful mountain peaks behind.  This area is the gateway to Antarctica.

A collection of larger cruise ships rounding the tip of South America.  Our ship is on the left.

We went on a long excursion (boat, train, & bus) to see more of Tierra Del Fuego which extended into Chilean territory.  Dramatic scenery everywhere.

How is that for a rugged mountain peak?  Do you see the blue and white Chilean flag in the foreground?

On our excursion into the Patagonian countryside, we first took a boat ride, then a train ride, and finally a bus back to Ushuaia.  The refurbished train was originally used to take mine workers to their work site.  What scenic surroundings!

The horses here have no owners; herds run wild in this remote area.

It looks like a lush paradise.  Remember that this is late Spring.  I wonder what it looks like in winter.    

The weather was very pleasant when we started this cruise.  Here we are starting to experience substantial Pacific swells coming from the west and colder water of the north-flowing Humboldt current from Antarctica.  From now on, we will be experiencing Chile.

Buenos Aires, Argentina and a cruise

This vacation trip was motivated by the offer of a free cruise, with penthouse accommodation, as compensation for volunteering to relinquish our Viking reservation on an overbooked Caribbean cruise last Spring.  On short notice, that vacation was instead spent at two resorts in Puerto Rico. 

Our trip to South America started with a long flight through Houston to Buenos Aires and then transfer to our hotel in Palermo.  We arrived three days before our cruise, giving us time to enjoy the area, one of the nicer sections of the city.  We had been here previously eight years ago (blog entry from March 2017) and held fond memories of the area.  Many streets there are shaded by mature trees, providing a pleasant environment. We brought no local currency on this trip.  We have found that credit cards are accepted almost universally.  1000 Argentine pesos currently equals $0.70 USD

Only a few blocks away, the “Ecoparque”, an environmentally friendly name for a zoo, offered free admission for tourists. We didn't have to walk far to find inviting restaurants.  Our favorite was an Italian restaurant, Olivetti, serving excellent Malbec wine from Mendoza, with its meals.  Italians form a large part of this nation's immigrant population, and their influence is still felt.  Buenos Aires metropolitan area has a population of about 16 million; our impressions are mainly from the Palermo area.

A walk in the park on a pleasant late Spring Day.  This park, near the river, is so large that it was divided into sections.

Streetside flower adds color to the neighborhood.

A cluster of dogs settled in the shade with their dogwalker.

High-rise apartment buildings just beyond the park's shade.  This is where the dog owners lived.

A super big park was also nearby.  We discovered that professional 'dogwalkers' each staked out a shaded area under the trees where they tended their charges, as many as 2 or 3 dozen dogs at a time.  Nearby were many high-rise apartments buildings where the dog's owners lived.  We took long walks to explore the area and felt safe while doing so.  It was late Spring there; blossoms were falling from the trees to create a colorful ground carpet in places.

A typical shaded street.  Temperatures were mainly in the 70's while we were there, but the shade and cooling from those trees will be highly appreciated during warm mid-summer.

Craft stalls at a local plaza.  The craft wares were of decent quality, but we had no need for such objects and no space in our luggage.

Nearby botanical park.  We did extensive walking and found many such parks.

Metropolitan Cathedral mausoleum of General San Martin.  We were fortunate to be there at the changing of the guard.  Two soldiers are always posted here.  General San Martin and his Army liberated Argentina, Chile, and Peru from Spanish rule.

MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY

Montevideo central plaza with monuments.  It was an easy walk to get here, pedestrian-only streets and mild weather.

The first stop on our cruise was Montevideo, Uruguay, which is about 1/10 the size of Buenos Aires.  We took a long walk through the old part of the city following pedestrian-only avenues. We stopped to look at products, mainly clothes, in the stores, but prices were at US levels, making them expensive for the locals and no bargain for us.  An average wage here is about $500 to $1000 per month.

Pedestrian-only shopping street in Montevideo.

Live Musical production in local theater.  We attended as part of a cruise ship excursion.

As you can see, we had perfect weather to start our Viking cruise.

To allow a break in the long voyage south, we stopped at Puerto Madryn, Argentina.  The nearby bay is a notable breeding area for whales as well as other marine species.  Interestingly, many Scottish settlers were invited to come here generations ago and settle the area, and they have maintained much of their culture.

Puerto Madryn beach and business area.  The summer attraction here is the extensive beach area.

Dawn looking seaward.  The shipping pier here is extremely long in order to reach deep water.  That is our cruise ship in the background.