Sunday, November 18, 2018

Lagoa Azul, western Sao Miguel island

The little VW we rented here didn't have GPS, and using a cell phone for GPS is too expensive overseas; so I found that I could use the program "maps.me" as a crude substitute for GPS.  Getting in and out of the narrow lanes of Ponta Delgada where some are only one-lane, one-way and totally unfamiliar, with names that change almost every block, was made easier by having the little triangular cursor and city map on the I-Pad screen.

We headed to the western end of the island and Lagoa Azul which gets my vote for the most scenic portion of a very scenic island landscape.  The road winds upward through fields and trees to the top of the volcano rim.  Park and walk the trail through dense rain forest; turn left when you reach the caldera rim and take the narrow trail to the lookout.  You will see the entire west end of the island and multiple lakes.  Absolutely stunning.

The western caldera catches the predominate winds off the ocean from the northwest providing ample rain for the lush forest here.

Lagoa Azul with the village of Sete Cidades across the lake.  We were hoping to eat lunch there, but didn't find anything with a menu.

The lookout on that ridge really provides a view of the entire west end of the island.

A farmer with his dog riding a horse cart; we saw similar carts in other areas of the island.

We found a nice restaurant for lunch in the village of Mosteiros on the west end of the island.  This was the view out the window.

Wooded slopes and neat fields outlined with hand-laid gathered rock walls.  What a pretty picture!

Often when we travel, we only eat two meals per day.  Passive pursuits such as sitting on a bus or driving in a car don't create much hunger.  We ate breakfast at 0830; no lunch, and then started looking for dinner at 3:30pm.  Sunday; most restaurants closed, at least until 7pm.   We walked the cobblestone streets of the old town district. We were hungry and found a little upstairs restaurant apparently open; well, not really; they had just left the door open. The chef and one female server were present.  Although surprised, they graciously let us in.  Both came to our table to discuss meal options.  They understood my lactose intolerance.  We were the only customers.  We ended up with a bottle of vinho verde from northern Portugal (highly recommended); Dawn had tuna steak; I had octopus.  The entire octopus was served, large enough for three people. (yesterday my albacore lunch in Mosteiros was enough for three; we skipped dinner)  Dawn's fish was large also.  Such gracious hosts!  They brought us an after dinner aperitif with no charge.  We exchanged thank you's.  What a great experience!  Would that happen in your local restaurant?

Simple food but fresh and in ample portions; a bottle of wine completes the meal.




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