Monday, November 19, 2018

Lagoa das Furnas, the eastern caldera of Sao Miguel

The nine Azores Islands are spread over more than 300 miles, SE to NW.  I elected to visit only Sao Miguel because it is the largest, has significant variety in its landscape, and most importantly, it has an international airport.  Having traveled for almost three weeks now, I wanted our six days here to be relaxing and not try to include other islands in the group which would require additional flights and accommodations; although, it is something to consider for the future.  We were lucky to not encounter any cold weather in Poland or Hungary; however, if we had, the mild climate here would have helped us to warm up.  We are told that the climate here doesn't change much throughout the year.

Yesterday, we drove to the caldera, crater of a dormant volcano, toward the east end of the island which included a lake, the resort town of Furnas, and hot springs and thermal pools.  The vegetation on the steep slopes of the caldera reminded me of much more tropical locations: Hawaii, Tahiti, or Panama.  We were able to take a long hike in the shade of massive trees along the western shore of Lagoa das Furnas.

Steam still belches from the floor of the Furnas caldera.

Lagoa das Furnas seen from the caldera edge.  The resort town of Furnas (hot mineral springs pools) is to the left.  A park with bubbling hot outlets is directly below us.

We  hiked from the hot springs at the far end of Lagoa das Furnas along a shaded trail on the left hand shore of the lake.  It was warm enough that we were glad for the shade.

The town of Furnas sited on the floor of the caldera.  We are looking east toward the tallest peak on the island.

Later we found a lookout, in Portuguese called a miradoura, at the top edge of the crater where the entire area was visible.  We drove home along the north shore of the island.  Very few beaches on these volcanic islands, but scenes of white wave crests crashing against cliffs.  We have now encountered several farmers driving their horse carts or tractors between home and fields along the highways.  We also encountered a few drivers who think they are on the autobahn, even though island distances are short. Hiking trails have been laid out through this beautiful terrain, but they can be challenging.  Trails include major vertical variation, and can be crude, swampy, rutted, or muddy surfaces.

Ponta Formosa and the village of Porto Formosa on the north coast of the island.

A significant portion of Sao Miguel island is east of this location.  It is steep terrain including the highest peak on the island, about 3600'.  We did not explore that portion of the island.  

We toured the fortress at Ponta Delgada yesterday, completed in 1549, shelled by a German submarine in WWI, and still in military use.  The young Portuguese soldier providing information to us spoke perfect English.  We asked him about his future plans (law enforcement); he reminded me of my own status when I was his age.  We met a couple staying at our B&B: she is German; he is French; they live in Lisbon, Portugal.  Their conversations wander between multiple languages.  We also met one of the owners of our B&B.  She and her husband are lawyers.  She is young, cute. and enthusiastic.  We talked about residential renovations; they are planning to open another B&B and have done a great job restoring the beauty of the mansion we are staying in.

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