Friday, November 16, 2018

Ponta Delgada, Sao Miguel island, Azores

We arrived at midnight to a blustery, rough landing of our TAP flight from Lisbon.  First off the aircraft (the advantage of a front seat), we quickly found a taxi driver who raced the midnight streets, deposited us at our B&B in Ponta Delgada, and drove away leaving us at the curb.  There we were with our assorted luggage in a strange town, standing in the dark outside a tall wrought iron enclosure of the property, hoping we could arouse someone although no lights were visible.  Amazing how you can make reservations in some foreign part of the world months in advance and the proprietor is there to greet you on arrival.  We stumbled up the stairs of this mansion to our room to discover that the interior was modern, cheerful and inviting.

Great location, wonderfully restored, friendly and helpful hosts; this is the B&B we stayed in at Ponta Delgada.

Swells rolling in are like the heart beat of the Atlantic Ocean.  It was scenic and peaceful to walk down to the breakwater at sunset.

Near the breakwater was an ancient stone fortress; built 1549.  Part is still used by the Portuguese navy and part is a neat military museum.

Ponta Delgada waterfront as seen from the breakwater.  Walking the harbor promenade, we observed a group of people going for an organized swim in the harbor each day.

We discovered an indoor farmer's market, complete with fresh fish and butcher shop, in downtown Ponta Delgada.  An amazing variety of local products from the fertile volcanic slopes of the island and its surrounding seas.

  A typical street, although less crowded than most.

Sao Miguel, almost 40 miles long, is the most prominent island of a volcanic group of islands.  The climate is moderate; the soil is rich; and agricultural products are abundant.  Standing on the breakwater, I can watch large swells crashing against it, throwing spray twenty feet in the air.  The harbor is full of serious ships: Portuguese navy, fishing vessels, and transports, as well as power and sail yachts.  An ancient stone fortress overlooks the harbor.  The town of cobblestone streets is full of very solid looking, but slightly dilapidated, buildings.  The streets are narrow; never designed for motor vehicles.  Parking is at a premium; apparently a major source of city income.

We have six days here to check out the lakes in extinct volcanic craters and some associated thermal baths.  Mountains extend up to 3600' altitude.  Tomorrow we rent a small car to expedite our sightseeing.

OMG, the scenery here is so beautiful!  The area is self-sufficient with a perfect mix of forests, pastures, crops, mountains, and lakes. Dramatic views from volcanic mountain tops to the surrounding farms, villages, and rocky coastline.  Neat little fields framed by gathered stone walls. The weather is extremely changeable moment to moment from sun to shade to a passing light rain cloud and back to sun.  Temperatures stay between mid 60's to high 50's depending on altitude.
We have the smallest VW to drive, an "UP!", which is perfect for the narrow roads.  Dawn drives and I navigate.  In the towns, many roads are too narrow for two cars in opposite directions to pass unless one pulls over.  Many urban roads are single lane; street names change every few blocks.

Beautifully green and lush, with a perfect mixture of nature and cultivated land.

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